S-10 Forum banner
181 - 200 of 211 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
well i did my big three and my ad244 upgrade today. 1/0 wiring for my big three and only paid $40 dollars for the ad244 at a junk yard and it worked lol i feel like i scored lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
but i grounded my engine on one of the bolts that mounts my alternator and grounded it to the negative on the battery, which i then grounded to the sway bar mount on the frame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
im guessing this only helps when your not at idle?

cause I just did this in 4gauge wire and it did not help at all. exactly the same as before.

only a 600w amp. just wanted something that helped the light show when i stop at a light or stop sign. guess this wasnt it unless i did something wrong?

grounded battery to frame
positive from alt to battery positive
and alt bracket to to frame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,685 Posts
if you're having dimming issues with only 600rms, you are probably clipping the hell out of the amp. i dont really have any dimming problems with my truck unless im really hammering on it. and i have 55w hid's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
what is "clipping"?

they only dim when i am at idle. while driving no dimming at all.

i am adding 35w HID soon, maybe an alt upgrade is needed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I hope not. I have no gains on and no distortion.

drops to 12.4 at idle with all the lights on and system cranked

14.2v at idle with everything off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Yeah idk maybe my alt is going wouldn't surprise me.My amp is 4 ch too. Sub is bridged 300w and 2 components at 110 each
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
I'm considering doing this upgrade (for future use) and I'm wondering what's the largest gauge wire anyone is using? I know the "rules" suggest the larger the better. I got that, but what is everyone running? 0/1? 1/0? Anything being run larger than that? Reason I ask is because I have access to a bunch of 4/0 welding cable. The cable itself is rated for 600V. I'll never pull that, but I thought I'd run 4/0 for the Big 3. Since it's welding cable it's pretty flexible and a lot cheaper than "car audio" wire. 4/0 is about $6.70 per foot from the welding store. Has anyone ran something of this magniture for the Big 3? The welding store also has welding cable up to 500MCM but that's overkill IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
I have never seen anybody use the 4/0 welding cable for Big 3. Although I have seen tons of 2/0 ($3.25/foot its beefy) Big 3s in welding cable. I have Audio Technix 1/0 under my hood with pure copper cable ends. I am adding some more 2/0 though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Reelfish, do you think 4/0 is too much? According to sources (http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizemetgagetoawgtable.html) 4/0 is 0.528" in diameter. For comparison sake, 4awg is 0.232" so a little more than double the size in diameter. 2/0 is 0.419" in diameter. I'm thinking of running 4/0 in the Big 3, and 1/0 from my battery to my amp. Just not sure how I'll get 1/0 through my firewall. 4awg was tough enough to get through the antenna grommet. If I end up going with 4/0 as planned, I'll be sure to take pics so everyone can see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
804 Posts
Use the proper cable end and 4/0 is fine. I relocated a battery to the trunk on a car I once owned and that cable worked great. Make sure the grounds are clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
4/0 will work, if you are competing in IASCA, DbDrag, MECA, USACi or any other audio organization, contact them and see what wire you can use, I know some only allow 1/0 from batt to amp, and only a certain amount of runs. Do you have a blazer? I'd run it along the frame and drill a hole and bring the wire up, or run along the inside. The hole can be plugged up later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
@Reelfish. I don't plan to compete in any audio organizations. At least not currently. I just want to do the Big 3 for my own peace of mind. I'm currently running an Optima Yellow Top for the dual cycle, and I'm running the factory cables from the side posts and the top posts are running my 4 AWG to my amp and running 55watt HIDs in the high and low beams. I've also done the Quad beam mod where all 4 lights come on when I turn on my highs (rarely have to use them with 55watt lows, lol) Anyways, I plan on running a larger amp/sub combo when I can get around to it. Not sure exactly which amp or subs I want yet, so I still have to decide. I'm not sure how much power it will take, but my goal is to be able to do hair tricks and the cup trick. (for amusement purposes) I don't have a blazer, I have an extended cab with the 3rd door. I currently have the 4 AWG going through my antenna grommet which is where a lot of people route their wire and I've even read a few people were able to get 1/0 wire through there, not sure how because 4 AWG was a pain enough. If I have to I'll drill a hole and run the wire along the frame.

Just out of curiousity do you (or anyone else) know approximately how much power (RMS preferrably) it would take to do hair tricks in an extended cab, or the cup trick? I know the size of the box and what it's tuned to will have an impact on that, but just a ball park figure? So I know what range to look in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
I saw a Ford Ranger with 2 12s and 1500w hairtrick at 26hz on youtube. A good low tuned enclosure will do the trick, wall it with 2 15s or something. Hit up bassheadsent.net for a design. Oh btw, I ran two 1/0 runs under my ex. cab and up through the rear seat opening. Here's a pic. This is the passenger side of the vehicle,
 
181 - 200 of 211 Posts
Top