Tenney Alternators is now offering Big 3 Upgrade kits! 2 ga to 4/0 kits
Copper Lugs Soldered
Cut to length
Starting at $60
tenneyalts.com | 1 (727) 657-0991 | [email protected]
if you're having dimming issues with only 600rms, you are probably clipping the hell out of the amp. i dont really have any dimming problems with my truck unless im really hammering on it. and i have 55w hid's
I'm considering doing this upgrade (for future use) and I'm wondering what's the largest gauge wire anyone is using? I know the "rules" suggest the larger the better. I got that, but what is everyone running? 0/1? 1/0? Anything being run larger than that? Reason I ask is because I have access to a bunch of 4/0 welding cable. The cable itself is rated for 600V. I'll never pull that, but I thought I'd run 4/0 for the Big 3. Since it's welding cable it's pretty flexible and a lot cheaper than "car audio" wire. 4/0 is about $6.70 per foot from the welding store. Has anyone ran something of this magniture for the Big 3? The welding store also has welding cable up to 500MCM but that's overkill IMO.
I have never seen anybody use the 4/0 welding cable for Big 3. Although I have seen tons of 2/0 ($3.25/foot its beefy) Big 3s in welding cable. I have Audio Technix 1/0 under my hood with pure copper cable ends. I am adding some more 2/0 though.
Reelfish, do you think 4/0 is too much? According to sources (http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizemetgagetoawgtable.html) 4/0 is 0.528" in diameter. For comparison sake, 4awg is 0.232" so a little more than double the size in diameter. 2/0 is 0.419" in diameter. I'm thinking of running 4/0 in the Big 3, and 1/0 from my battery to my amp. Just not sure how I'll get 1/0 through my firewall. 4awg was tough enough to get through the antenna grommet. If I end up going with 4/0 as planned, I'll be sure to take pics so everyone can see.
4/0 will work, if you are competing in IASCA, DbDrag, MECA, USACi or any other audio organization, contact them and see what wire you can use, I know some only allow 1/0 from batt to amp, and only a certain amount of runs. Do you have a blazer? I'd run it along the frame and drill a hole and bring the wire up, or run along the inside. The hole can be plugged up later.
@Reelfish. I don't plan to compete in any audio organizations. At least not currently. I just want to do the Big 3 for my own peace of mind. I'm currently running an Optima Yellow Top for the dual cycle, and I'm running the factory cables from the side posts and the top posts are running my 4 AWG to my amp and running 55watt HIDs in the high and low beams. I've also done the Quad beam mod where all 4 lights come on when I turn on my highs (rarely have to use them with 55watt lows, lol) Anyways, I plan on running a larger amp/sub combo when I can get around to it. Not sure exactly which amp or subs I want yet, so I still have to decide. I'm not sure how much power it will take, but my goal is to be able to do hair tricks and the cup trick. (for amusement purposes) I don't have a blazer, I have an extended cab with the 3rd door. I currently have the 4 AWG going through my antenna grommet which is where a lot of people route their wire and I've even read a few people were able to get 1/0 wire through there, not sure how because 4 AWG was a pain enough. If I have to I'll drill a hole and run the wire along the frame.
Just out of curiousity do you (or anyone else) know approximately how much power (RMS preferrably) it would take to do hair tricks in an extended cab, or the cup trick? I know the size of the box and what it's tuned to will have an impact on that, but just a ball park figure? So I know what range to look in.
I saw a Ford Ranger with 2 12s and 1500w hairtrick at 26hz on youtube. A good low tuned enclosure will do the trick, wall it with 2 15s or something. Hit up bassheadsent.net for a design. Oh btw, I ran two 1/0 runs under my ex. cab and up through the rear seat opening. Here's a pic. This is the passenger side of the vehicle,