What is the best method and oil type (Synthetic, Synthetic Blend, Conventional) for breaking in a newly rebuilt engine? In my case the 2.8l engine.
Best oil for breaking in a rebuilt engine
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Joined
·
378 Posts
Agree there. However, if it is a bought rebuilt engine use the oil the re-builder recommends so there is no change of a dispute if a warranty issue comes up.
Define “rebuilt.”
But generally, no, not synthetic. It’s “too slippery.”
Also, M1 oils (depending on grade) are high in ZDDP and meet the MB 229.5 spec which is one of the most difficulty to achieve; even some modern OHC engines are still “flat tappet.” I’ve been running my ACVW rebuild on M1 5w-40 for 1500 miles (switched about 500 miles after the rebuild).
Diesel oils have high ZDDP for flat tappet cams. I’ll be switching my Olds small block to Rotella next oil change, after I replace the chain/sprockets.
![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But generally, no, not synthetic. It’s “too slippery.”
Also, M1 oils (depending on grade) are high in ZDDP and meet the MB 229.5 spec which is one of the most difficulty to achieve; even some modern OHC engines are still “flat tappet.” I’ve been running my ACVW rebuild on M1 5w-40 for 1500 miles (switched about 500 miles after the rebuild).
Diesel oils have high ZDDP for flat tappet cams. I’ll be switching my Olds small block to Rotella next oil change, after I replace the chain/sprockets.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
·
4,416 Posts
used to have about 15 or 20 years ago.
they are nearly identical to reg oils due to low emissions with catalytics they have to 'achieve' nowadays
The engine does have a flat tappet cam and it was rebuilt by me for whatever that is worth.
Thanks for all the information so far, I learn a ton off of here all the time.
Thanks for all the information so far, I learn a ton off of here all the time.
I like brad penn 30 wt
It is worth mentioning the spring pressures.
High performance cams use a lot more and we do things like use softer springs for break in.
I can imagine a 60 degree 6 using much for springs....
Should be able to google flat tappet cam break in and find lots of info.
It is worth mentioning the spring pressures.
High performance cams use a lot more and we do things like use softer springs for break in.
I can imagine a 60 degree 6 using much for springs....
Should be able to google flat tappet cam break in and find lots of info.
Joined
·
59,721 Posts
Joined
·
4,416 Posts
No synthetic.
Google break in oil, purchase your choice of oil.
Probably 10w-30. You rebuilt it, any idea of oil clearances? That dictates the oil viscosity.
Pretty much start engine, set idle around 2000 rpms for 30 minutes. (this is normal V8 flat cam break in info -which should be more than adequate for your engine)
Shut off engine, let cool for a few hours. Then restart, adjust idle and check for any weird sounds, issues etc.
Drain oil, refill with more break in oil, drive for few hundred miles. Drain and check oil for particles. Refill and enjoy.
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Brad Penn makes break-in specific oil, my old builder swore by it.
Rod clearance is .0015 and the mains are .0018
The cam is original to the engine when I bought the truck but has next no wear on it. I'm reusing the cam, lifters, rods and rockers. They're all back in their original places.
The crank is a new (reground) that matches the truck's year (1987). The previous owners had a junkyard crank from an 85 in it and that's probably why the bearing spun.
The bores were smooth with no lip and the piston skirts had no wear on them. Both heads had a rebuilder's warranty thing glued on.
Aside from the crank and a couple of broken rings the engine was pretty clean. Timing belt was pretty loose though.
Joined
·
4,416 Posts
so what did you do to 'rebuild it? It sounds more like you removed, checked, and reinstalled parts. therefore there really isn't a break in period. use good oil, drive it like you stole it.
That's a fair point, this may not constitute as an actual rebuild.
From what history I could gather the engine didn't run after the last owner finished 'rebuilding' the engine. Any break in precautions I am taking are because of that.
The previous owner also had the egr gasket on sideways, the distributor was 180° off, and the vacuum plumbing was all wrong so there's that.
Maybe I should just call it an intervention
From what history I could gather the engine didn't run after the last owner finished 'rebuilding' the engine. Any break in precautions I am taking are because of that.
The previous owner also had the egr gasket on sideways, the distributor was 180° off, and the vacuum plumbing was all wrong so there's that.
Maybe I should just call it an intervention
Joined
·
4,416 Posts
lol, yessir, a good inspection is sometimes needed when we get unfinished projects. You sound like you are doing everything correctly. Take 'new engine' precautions, and happy motoring.That's a fair point, this may not constitute as an actual rebuild.
From what history I could gather the engine didn't run after the last owner finished 'rebuilding' the engine. Any break in precautions I am taking are because of that.
The previous owner also had the egr gasket on sideways, the distributor was 180° off, and the vacuum plumbing was all wrong so there's that.
Maybe I should just call it an intervention
Joined
·
411 Posts
Since you have a relatively stock engine with tight factory style bearing clearances, you do not need anything extravagant.
The VR1 oil grades are typically thicker than the common 5w30 used today.
If you need 5w30, I would go with Brad Penn.
I use it in a lot of my modern builds & stick with VR1 where I need 20w50 or 10w30.
The VR1 oil grades are typically thicker than the common 5w30 used today.
If you need 5w30, I would go with Brad Penn.
I use it in a lot of my modern builds & stick with VR1 where I need 20w50 or 10w30.
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Man, those are TIGHT!!!
Thanks @Lonnie P I'll see what I can find.
Just dumb luck on my part. The crank and the main bearings came in the same box and it all just worked. I bought the rod bearings a couple of months before the new crank and they just happened to work as well. Next time I'll actually put some thought into clearances ahead of time
Joined
·
31 Posts
It's not a one-fits all. Example, I bought a long block assembly, forged internals 10.5:1 hydraulic roller, Dart SHP/PRO 1 aluminum head. I got it from TRISTAR in Wisconsin.
We're using AMSOIL full synthetic 10w40 , it has high zinc zddp in it, there has been extensive testing and a thousand motors sold for over 10 years. Plenty of arguing, but the experience is the rings seat in nice.
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Too much clearance = low oil pressure
Too little clearance = spun bearings
You've already had a bearing spin and you're sticking with these clearances? Those are even too tight for a little Honda engine...
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
