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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Which I'm currently losing...

I'm pulling the trans out of my 97 LS (4wd/4L60E/4.3l) to do the rear main and T/C input shaft seal.

Everything was going as well as pulling a transmission in your driveway can go, until I got to the 3rd bellhousing bolt on the driver's side.

How in the name of all that's holy do you get that out?!?!!!! I've dropped the trail shaft onto the cross beam that the torsion bars mount to, wiggled it back and forth looking for clearance, jacked the trans up into the bottom of the cab, and hammered a dimple in the sheet metal directly behind the bolt. I'd really appreciate some additional ideas.

Also, I can't see the top bolt on the left at all- any suggestions before that one turns into a losing battle too?

Thanks!
Merlyn
 

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Take out the front cab body bolts. Loosen the rear (and middle if it's an ext cab) and loosen the rad support bolts. Then jack the front of the cab up a bit. No more than necessary. I bought a 9/16 short swivel socket specifically for that bolt. A regular socket and add on swivel won't fit in there. 2000+ models use a 15mm.
353158
 
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LS3 Cruisin'
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For the mid drivers side bolt, it lines up to the right of the gas pedal area... I just drilled a hole large enough for a socket to go through at the bolt location, hardest part was finding the right spot to drill, used a small pilot bit first to check location. The top left drivers I usually just use a long handled wrench, crack it, then use a ratcheting wrench since you don't get a whole lot of turn before the wrench is hitting something.
 

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Which I'm currently losing...

I'm pulling the trans out of my 97 LS (4wd/4L60E/4.3l) to do the rear main and T/C input shaft seal.

Everything was going as well as pulling a transmission in your driveway can go, until I got to the 3rd bellhousing bolt on the driver's side.

How in the name of all that's holy do you get that out?!?!!!! I've dropped the trail shaft onto the cross beam that the torsion bars mount to, wiggled it back and forth looking for clearance, jacked the trans up into the bottom of the cab, and hammered a dimple in the sheet metal directly behind the bolt. I'd really appreciate some additional ideas.

Also, I can't see the top bolt on the left at all- any suggestions before that one turns into a losing battle too?

Thanks!
Merlyn
as oldeerslayer said, remove all the body bolts and jack the body up. 2 bolts on rad support, 3 each side on cab(extended, I don't know about reg cab). remove rad fan shroud before jacking up. you can drop the tail of the trans to get a better angle on the bolts. put a 4X block under rad support and jack up. easy if you know about this. I've done a few first gens and second gen. all the same way to get to trans bolts. factory manual says this. not sure if Haynes or Chilton mentions this. always go with factory manual! good luck.
 

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Don't know about yours, but the TBI and Vortecs of the 90's had studs with clinch nuts on all 6 bolt locations. Clinch nut has a shoulder on it, has to come off before you can access the hex portion oof the stud. You only needed 2 with studs, one for fuel lines and the other for a heat shield.
Good quality long extensions are your friend. That means NOT Harbor Freight. I have one that will twist almost 1/4 turn which means you've lost all your leverage before you actually begin to address the tight bolt. It's a loaner for friends that tend to not bring tools back.
 

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I've got a similar Snap On. They're over 100. And that was 20+ years ago. It is prettier being all chrome. I wouldn't recommend using an impact on a swivel socket. Even if it's made for an impact. They can throw a bolt pretty violently. I have a scar over my right eye to show from learning that one the hard way. Thank goodness we had to wear safety glasses.
 

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^ and sure as hell don't have your hand on the swivel, guiding the socket, when you hit the trigger on the impact. That lesson cost me a little bit of flesh and the use of my left hand for a coupe of days.
 

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^ and sure as hell don't have your hand on the swivel, guiding the socket, when you hit the trigger on the impact. That lesson cost me a little bit of flesh and the use of my left hand for a coupe of days.
You only make that mistake once.... I can still feel that 30 years later.

Also if your swivel is worn & flops around, you can add a wrap or 2 of electrical tape to hold it semi-straight.
 
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