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Discussion Starter #1
Charlie 72, I have a 94 s10 4.3l v6. I have ALL the bolts removed and can't get the bell housing separated.. it's my first major project. I know the clutch went out. It looks like the clutch fork punched a hole thru the housing. I won't know until I get it out. I'm doing it by myself, plus new to this. I don't want to do any damage I also don't want to give up. If anyone can give me some pointers I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Moved to Transmission/Rearend.

...also changed title to something more descriptive of the problem.
 

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Welcome to the forum.
A 94 should be an NV3500 with the bell housing being part of the transmission case. To remove the transmission you need to support the engine with a block of wood under the oilpan. Then support the trans with transmission jack or if you are doing this on the floor with at least a good sized floor jack so there isn't any tension caused by gravity and it should slide back easily. It weighs around 110#.
It can be a bit tricky finding that point where the transmission essentially has neutral buoyancy.
Do you have the driveshaft, crossmember, shifter, and all wiring removed form it?

338002

NV3500 MANUAL TRANSMISSION FOR GM 93-'95 S10, S15 & SONOMA, 4.3L, 2WD, 5 SPEED
 

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I have shifter, crossbar, driveshaft. I had to remove the exhaust too. It seperated at the bottom . I have went up and down with it. My problem was not knowing. I going out now to start another day on it. I'll keep you posted. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was looking at the pic if the transmission. I'm not sure if I have the NV3500 or if it's a T5. At least I'm down to 2 now. Theres a stamp on my bellhousing. It's 18435. Not sure what that is. I second guess ever move I make on this. Can I seperated the housing with a flat bar or screwdriver to get more spacing?
 

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94 4.3 is supposed to be an NV3500, but who knows what could have been changed in the past 26 years.
You can use a bar carefully, but don't break anything. Is the top possibly pinned to the firewall because the engine came down at the rear when you removed the crossmember. Do you have all 6 bolts out? Sometimes it just takes a bunch of wiggling.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took out 19 Bolts plus another longer bolt in the side. I didn't know that if was supposed to shake it or anything like that. I haven't supported with a bottle jack and I have the floor jack at the end where the drive shaft goes.I haven't done any shaking or anything like that to it yet I didn't know if you was supposed to or not. Basically I don't know what to expect when it does break loose or how it will let me know that it is broke loose.. if that makes any sense?
 

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There are 2 alignment posts on the engine block. They are not threaded. Sometimes those will corrode and keep the bell housing from easily separating.
It's not a great practice, but you can use a large screwdriver to tap the bellhousing where it connects to the block (parting line).

IIRC, 94 was the only one year were a 4.3 S10 had a T5... So you might have a T5 transmission.
If this is a T5, you can remove the transmission from the bellhousing. It's held on with (4) 19mm bolts IIRC.

It might help to take a few pix of this show and post them on this thread.

Did you buy a complete clutch kit? They usually come with a plastic alignment tool. You probably know that the clutch disc needs to be aligned with the pilot bushing/bearing...

One more suggestion... there usually is a lot of clutch dust associated with this operation. It's a really good idea to avoid breathing the dust since it may contain asbestos.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will send a couple pics. No I didn't know that. I got a clutch kit already. Haven't opened it. Lol. I seen the pins or dowels in them. I figured they were for alignment. But I will two on them.
 

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pins are what takes the load,bolts basically hold it in place.
Too much slop in the bolt holes and bolts for precision alignment like this requires,hence the dowel pins
Make double sure you have all the bolts out.
Ive bought more than one core tranny(auto and manual) thats got a crack or broken ear from someone trying to remove with a hidden bolt still in it.
I use a wonder bar for the prying apart,alot more flat surface area than a screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got it seperated. Well Almost. I have no idea how it could be holding now. I don't know how far it's got to be, before it's completely seperated, but I've got to be 98%. When I finally did get it broke loose it went really good and then it hit a spot that I guess it's binding up in and now it's just as tight where it's at as it was when it had bolted from the beginning the way it feels. I have taken it up and down and tried to wiggle it and still it's just unbelievable that it's still holding. Any ideas on how to get that last little bit out ?
 

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how much gap do you have now between back of engine block and the face of bellhousing?
you need about an inch to get trans out of the back of crankshaft and another 4 or so to get inputshaft out of clutch
 

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I got it seperated. Well Almost. I have no idea how it could be holding now. I don't know how far it's got to be, before it's completely seperated, but I've got to be 98%. When I finally did get it broke loose it went really good and then it hit a spot that I guess it's binding up in and now it's just as tight where it's at as it was when it had bolted from the beginning the way it feels. I have taken it up and down and tried to wiggle it and still it's just unbelievable that it's still holding. Any ideas on how to get that last little bit out ?
I had exactly the same problem recently only it was a nv1500 attached to a 2.2 motor. Had it mostly apart and then wouldnt separate. What I missed was removing the plate at the front/bottom of the transmission where it attaches to the engine with a few little bolts. Dont know why it hung up there but after I removed it they separated easy enough.
 

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I had exactly the same problem recently only it was a nv1500 attached to a 2.2 motor. Had it mostly apart and then wouldnt separate. What I missed was removing the plate at the front/bottom of the transmission where it attaches to the engine with a few little bolts. Dont know why it hung up there but after I removed it they separated easy enough.
It actually attaches to the transmission with a few little bolts. It is located at the front, lower part of the transmission right where it attaches to the engine
 

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Could be the pinch welds between cab and firewall on the front of the transmission tunnel. i shaved mine off with a cutoff wheel and used seam sealer to make it smooth after i had my engine out. it comes down right in front of the bellhousing up top just above the bellhousing bolts. i had to loosen motor mounts the first time i did it, and use the engine puller to tilt the front of the engine up to get it to clear
 
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