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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alrighty so Im getting ready to buy the last peice of parts i need for my truck. Only thing I need is lower control arms. I have a set of SD uppers and they are fantastic the welds are great, they are beefy and they are an all around great upper control arm. I didnt have the money at the time to buy the complete set so I bought the uppers first because they were cheaper and I had the money at the time. Now that Im back on my feet I have the cash to dish out the lower control arms. but one problem they are expensive and im in *shock* i guess of the price. I know SD makes great lowers and maybe i should just buy the SD lowers and be done with it, but ive seen another company Michigan Metal Works who also makes control arms, no notch tie rods, etc i emailed taylor and the control arms he makes are pretty nice as well. anyone running the MMW control arms? opinions on them? I just wanted to get an final decision before buying.

thx
Brandon
 

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Hoods are overrated
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i'd stick with SD for the lowers, you don't want to combine 2 different brands of arms IMO, never know if the geometry is modified between manufacturers.

those MMW arms look like some very nice stuff, and if the price is right i'd run them if you like them. I just don't want you to get into a major camber/caster/bump steer issue by combining brands. no company's jigs are identical to build these arms.
 

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The price difference is not that substantial.. Also what are your plans for wheels?

I to was looking at MMM's lower control arms but I don't know if you noticed the difference in geometry between the two arms. Taylors flat plate lowers, as he told me are simply a solution for those who don't have the time or desire to dehump their lowers and to eliminate the need for bag cups..

They were not designed for larger wheels etc...

After your 5% discount with SD for being a forum member the price difference would be maybe $50. ( that's with shipping included)

hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was actually gonna email him back and ask him if these would lay a 20 inch wheel. I kinda figured the geometry would change with using different brands. I think i will dish out the cash for the SD lowers. But the MMW control arms are a good price for someone not looking to spend a whole lot on the front end. Only downfall is not being able to use a good size wheel/tire combo. and also i forgot about the s10 forum member discount :D thankyou for reminding me

Brandon
 

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Layd the **** out
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Im bagging a customers truck on 20's right now he wanted to run sd uppers and art lowers for some reason. Whatever the reason is i have no idea but they do work with no crazy outta this world camber issues. So thats an option too

Also good luck getting parts from SD in a reasonable time. I ordered 4 link tabs and upper bag cups 10/7 and here it is 10/24 and i still havent recieved them yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know that feeling. i can see why you would need it because of customers rides, etc. I had to wait for my bagged parts but when they got here it was like X-mas :D quick question guys. Im wanting to keep my sway bar and run 20's Ive seen a couple of threads where people have had problems with the sway bar so they end up ditching it. will i have a problem with sd lowers and 20's? People seem to run dodge dakota link, or camaro links to solve the problem. ive also seen people flip the sway bar to get better clearance. any help in getting this issue fixed would be great. I dont know about you guys but I dont want to modify a $600 control arm. :eek:
 

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When u order lowers get the sway bar mounts and it comes with endlinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didnt think it came with the end links. i thought it was just for the arms and the tab options
 

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i think its better when u get a complete set cus then theres nothing that can go wrong with geometry
 

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I sent mine back to get tabs welded on and they sent endlinks back with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I see it now in the box. I must have missed that part. it says the end links are included. I feel stupid for asking now. atleast its cleared up. i got confused when i saw the thread about keeping the sway bar and people using different linkages for it. must be with stock lowers.
 

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MichiganMetalWorks.com
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I personally wouldnt mix the two brands...I have never tested my flat plate lowers with SD uppers. Go with the SD lowers since you all ready have the uppers, its your best bet.

I know my 3 piece flat plate uppers and flat plate lowers will lay a 22 with drop spindles, and keep the correct geometry that is needed.

I do make tubular lowers as well, but i dont sell them alone, only with a full set of tubular upper and lower arms.

Im in the process of testing my new set of S-10 control arms, and I probably wont offer any of my other styles any more after that. They will be flat plate uppers, with a screw in circular ball joint.. no bolt in balljoints. The lowers will be a 3/4" flat plate with the correct bends to lay out on a 24 with drop spindles.

I cant say for sure when they will be ready to sell, but im not too worried about making it fast... probably sometime in the spring.

thanks


Taylor


Taylor
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thankyou for your time taylor. pics of the new arms? :D the circular ball joint is pretty neat ive never seen anything like it.
 

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MichiganMetalWorks.com
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Na, ill probably post pics once the building of my new shop settles down a bit and i can get around to that kind of stuff.

Good luck with everything, hope the build goes well!


Taylor
 

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The price difference is not that substantial.. Also what are your plans for wheels?

I to was looking at MMM's lower control arms but I don't know if you noticed the difference in geometry between the two arms. Taylors flat plate lowers, as he told me are simply a solution for those who don't have the time or desire to dehump their lowers and to eliminate the need for bag cups..

They were not designed for larger wheels etc...

After your 5% discount with SD for being a forum member the price difference would be maybe $50. ( that's with shipping included)

hope this helps!
You can't get the forum discount on control arms.

Edit: Also I think someone else mentioned ART arms, that's what I'm running and never had any problems (knock on wood). Only thing is roughly any wheel size 18"+ you have to cut the shock tabs off and move them to the top of the arms. Cause they will hit the frame before it lays out. Also I ordered mine on a Monday and got them the same week vs the 3 month wait for SD arms at that time. idk what it is now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I hope the wait isnt too long. i ordered the lowers this morning. it had a nice grand total lol
 
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