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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
So anyone heard or done this on a battery thats not holding enough charge.

1. Remove caps.
2. Pour battery Acid into container and save.
3 Take .5 gals of distilled water and add 2 lbs of epsom salt mix and slightly heat if need to dissolve all the salt into the water.
4. Spray with garden hose and nozzle into each battery hole, then dump?
5. Mix old battery acid with epsom salt / distilled water mixture and refill battery.
6. Charge.

I had a battery that was about 2 years old and started not holding a charge enough to start, i tried to recharge it of course but would only work a few days then same problem.
I did the above and its now its holding a charge enough to start it.
 

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2003 Sonoma SLS ext. cab 4.3L / 4x4
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Hey all,
So anyone heard or done this on a battery thats not holding enough charge.

1. Remove caps.
2. Pour battery Acid into container and save.
3 Take .5 gals of distilled water and add 2 lbs of epsom salt mix and slightly heat if need to dissolve all the salt into the water.
4. Spray with garden hose and nozzle into each battery hole, then dump?
5. Mix old battery acid with epsom salt / distilled water mixture and refill battery.
6. Charge.

I had a battery that was about 2 years old and started not holding a charge enough to start, i tried to recharge it of course but would only work a few days then same problem.
I did the above and its now its holding a charge enough to start it.
An interesting procedure - how did you arrive at it/ what is the source? Maybe a non starter, but are you certain that the battery in question didn't/ doesn't have any internal faults that would impair its ability to hold a charge? When you tried recharging, what did you use, and what procedure was used? After the "revitalization" of the battery, how long is it holding charge for? Basically, a lot more specifics would be nice, for the sake of curiosity and/ or discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


Here:
Always be careful of course as we all know with all things, safety goggles, and chemical gloves recommended dont splash or spill it on you if you like to keep your eyes and skin with the battery acid.

No internal faults to be aware of simply old and really cold lately, cheaper battery, heard the cold makes the life expectancy go down.

I used a Smart battery charger its Nokogenius 1 a cheap but effective smart charger $30-40$ its been working for a few years now and you can leave it on after its done charging without possiblity of damage.

This was done going on over 2 weeks now. 1 time I did have a problem and i had to get jumped and it was after i left my ignition on in accessory mode and I did another smart charge on it just to be safe even though the truck may still have started but since then going on a week so im unsure and i did this a little bit differently.

I should have let it drain upside down inside the container longer i think there was still some battery acid that didnt come out and when i squirted into the holes there was some brownish fluid that came out after dumping it and i just discarded that because i didnt want to mix too much hose water into the pure battery acid in the container.

Plus i made a previous mistake on this battery before by topping off the holes with distilled water only, now that ive seen this i should have topped off with at least epsom and distilled or not even done that so this battery may have been partially compromised and i still have an extra carried in the truck incase i do go to start and it doesnt which it hasnt so far with 1 exception.

Ill post back a current multimeter reading soon.
 

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You lost me at the 4th step.

If you use "distilled" water in step 3,
wouldn't using the garden hose (in step 4) and nozzle to "spray" inside the battery holes defeat the purpose of
using the distilled water?
Couldn't you just pour the distilled water/epsom salt into the battery holes using a funnel work too?

I usually pour the acid out, rinse with distilled water (no salt) several times until the water comes out clean.
Then I pour (new) battery acid back into the battery to each fill line.
I have to use a D8 battery for my silverado to get a quick and no drag start, (battery mounted in toolbox in the bed).
A new battery costs more than it does for me to rejuvenate it.
This battery is going on 8 years and I bought it 2 yrs used. So it's actually going on 10 years total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The point is to not buy a new battery.
They all add up over the years and would rather save the 110-240$ in the pocket.

Yeah, I didnt know what the brown was coming out of it.
Sprayed and then dumped thats why it says use the hose, that hose water is supposed to just to clean it out not stay in there.

Not sure about pouring the epsom salt / distilled into the hole as doesnt sound like it would mix all the way.

Right on! sounds like it works but using new battery acid is the way to go then i wouldnt even do that mixture but I didnt know or even look to see if you can get battery acid retail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Surface charge is currently 12.1 which is too low. Right? ( Pretty sure its 12.4-12.7 is ideal? ) Havent tried to start it its cold at 20 degrees right now.
Thinking about just redoing this and pouring this old mixture out then adding back all new battery acid.
Still starts no problem.
 

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Surface charge is currently 12.1 which is too low. Right? ( Pretty sure its 12.4-12.7 is ideal? ) Havent tried to start it its cold at 20 degrees right now.
Thinking about just redoing this and pouring this old mixture out then adding back all new battery acid.
Still starts no problem.
12.1 is low.
you need a desulfator and a load tester if you actually plan to use this battery or any battery in similar condition.
One could argue that you are wasting your time and money and they would not be wrong...
I got my desulfator and load tester cheap enough. i would recommend that you just replace this battery with a new one and continue trying to learn with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok thanks needa,

Im seeing a charger with a desulfating mode same company of chargers.
So ideally leave the battery with original acid and then use this charger with the desulfating mode and not do anything with the fluid?

If youd like to explain the desulfating how that works?

why would i need a load tester?

How about a voltage drop test off the multimeter at startup and then under load is the same thing and the load tester is just a machine thats automated?
Thanks
 

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I am not going to say i know much about battery acid other than checking the levels and testing the acid with a tester... most of the batteries that i messed with were sealed lead acid and recovered without even opening them. the others i added distilled water only and recovered some of them but not all of them, mainly due to one very bad cell.

when the plates get exposed due to insufficient coverage by acid OR insufficient charge for more than about a few hours (give or take) then the plates QUICKLY become sulfated with heavy crystals that have to be removed in order to rejuvenate the battery. a sulfated battery wont take or hold significant charge until desulfated.
the trick is, rig a second battery into your vehicle to keep parameters, then unplug your battery a handful of times a year, top it off with distilled water and fully charge and desulfate it. in a good functional s10 with few electronics this is almost moot unless you do something stupid like leaving the key on engine off overnight or something.

the way a de-sulfator works is it blasts the plates with short pulses of high amperage. the blasts break up the crystals and eventually if it blasts enough crystals off then the battery can be recovered to like 90-95% of its rated capacity and cranking amps (basically enough to put it back into service). supposedly some welders can do a better job of this but it would be more manual and less 'safe' than just pressing a button and walking away.

the problem is, not every battery recovers and some take multiple days and cycles to recover. a battery that gets lower than... say...10v or so... for... say... a few hours or so... is probably not going to recover in a significant way and be reliable.

the load tester makes it easy to cycle the battery and monitor the battery progress in terms of cranking amps and voltage sag. it doubles as an easy way to put a high-drain load on the battery without damaging your vehicle with the junk battery you are trying to repair.... oftentimes during desulfation a battery will only hold a surface charge after a few cycles on the desulfator but if you put the load tester on it and cycle it long and hard many times and quickly recharge it with high amperage this will finish off the desulfation process and recover the battery a lot more than desulfation cycles alone.

but the thing is, every battery is different and the reason why it is broke is almost always different. also, bigger battery=longer time to recover.
personally i have never messed with acid. my understanding is you only need to add acid if the cell went totally dry, but the problem there is, the sulfation in that cell will be so bad that it will likely never recover anyways... off fuzzy memories you need to flush that cell extensively, desulfate it extensively, then pop in good acid, cycle the crap out of it, and of course pray because its still a dice roll...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for that needa.
Ends up this noco charger has a desulfating mode built into already that I wasnt aware of.
I hear that on multiple times, I had a saturn 96 sitting there for a year dead (not my car ) I charged it for about two days and cycles to get it back up with the same "smart" charger I guess the next one up for 70 has the repair mode added.
Thanks for clearing that up basically dont let it to get low of charge and lower it gets to charge that harder it is to bring it back.
Supposedly these chargers you dont even need to disconnect and can charge with both leads connected still connected to the electrical harnesses.
Im going to give the next one up with the repair mode supposedly built in see if it can hold a better charge. I know I may be wasting my time and money on a compromised battery but ill give it a shot and see what happens. Im also running a bigger and was a brand new alternator not a rebuilt from summit even though rebuilts are probably just saving the shell of the casing but oreillys and napa, autozone brands remanned have failed sooner and this summit one has over the spec needed on amperage output on this truck for amps so once i get turned cranked and on and I have plenty of amps and supposedly they are dropped the extra ones.
 

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Thanks for that needa.
Ends up this noco charger has a desulfating mode built into already that I wasnt aware of.
I hear that on multiple times, I had a saturn 96 sitting there for a year dead (not my car ) I charged it for about two days and cycles to get it back up with the same "smart" charger I guess the next one up for 70 has the repair mode added.
Thanks for clearing that up basically dont let it to get low of charge and lower it gets to charge that harder it is to bring it back.
Supposedly these chargers you dont even need to disconnect and can charge with both leads connected still connected to the electrical harnesses.
Im going to give the next one up with the repair mode supposedly built in see if it can hold a better charge. I know I may be wasting my time and money on a compromised battery but ill give it a shot and see what happens. Im also running a bigger and was a brand new alternator not a rebuilt from summit even though rebuilts are probably just saving the shell of the casing but oreillys and napa, autozone brands remanned have failed sooner and this summit one has over the spec needed on amperage output on this truck for amps so once i get turned cranked and on and I have plenty of amps and supposedly they are dropped the extra ones.
"Supposedly these chargers you dont even need to disconnect and can charge with both leads connected still connected to the electrical harnesses"
...personally i always disconnect the battery from the car when desulfating it though. it is best to disconnect it when charging too but i am guilty of regularly charging a battery thats still hooked up. i keep an eye on it though and its merely a maintenance charge.

i dont know how many more amps you are dealing with on a bigger alt, but you should probably upgrade your wires if you increase alt amperage. look up 'big 3' or 'big 4'... basically its an upgrade of your 'big' critical wires to handle the extra amperage. the smaller stock wires get hot with extra amperage and might burn up. sometimes you can leave the stock wires and just add another wire right on top to increase capacity... its not always pretty but oftentimes its easy and cheap and does the job...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yup,I agree best option is to disconnect the battery and then charge, desulfating would definitely agree too.

even better to charge it inside at room temperature I would think then sitting outside in the freezing overnight condition.

Yup I hear that thicker guage to handle the extra amps.
I looked that up big three but it's only giving me a pic of a single positive neg lead, what about the harness that is all interconnected coming off the positive or the negative on these trucks?
I've looked at this before and these harnesses weren't available but then the problem would be trying to connect a thicker gauge to a smaller gauge you would not want to do that then I would most likely think that you're going to burn up smaller wires so you would have to replace the entire harness?

I've I remember talking about something similar in a different thread but the problem I ran into was connecting into the remaining lead / harness. I'm not just going to put a crimp fitting on that?
It needs to be one continuous wire for the whole length not pieces of wire connected with a crimp fitting or something weak on the connection right?
Lost me there, when I bought the alternator I know that the sales guy was just trying to sell me something and he's going to say whatever he wants but he said that the extra amperage is dropped and I've heard that from other people too does anybody know how that works or if it's even real?
I also had an extra ground lead off of my alternator that I put a screw on the back and then grounded it to my negative on the battery doubled up.
But I took that off thought it was causing problems but I put it on there originally to try to get better grounding just in case I was getting problems with grounding and sometimes I do with oil leak on wires and oil leak is a really hard repair so it's continuousregular cleaning.
 

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