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want my #... 911 beotch!!
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Discussion Starter #1
i have an idea about where to mount air bag switches in my truck, but i am at a loss on how to do it. i plan on relocating my power window switches into my center console. i plan on running a 4 path fast bag setup which, if i am correct, needs electric valves and switches. anyway, i want to convert blazer window switches (the four window controls from a 4 door blazer of the same year) for the drivers door to control the ups and downs for each wheel. is it possible? has anybody done this? any help anybody can give me would be great.
 

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The Researcher
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610 Posts
Well

I would have to ask my installer tomorrow as this is not my strong point but...The window switches are (on) off (on) where as the () represents momentary on and springs back to off. The wiring should not be real difficult as there will be a constant power and then leads coming off both ends (wires) so where as when the window switch is pushed down the truck will deflate and up will inflate or vice versa, just depends on which way you wire.

If you really want to know I can check into it and you can send me an e mail. I'll get you the exact way to wire if no one on here lets ya know.

here is a current pic of my switch set up with it changing to hydro style switches soon with the centre part removable as a switch box.
 

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The Researcher
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610 Posts
Tire Size

The front is 225/50/16 and the rear is the stock rubber.
 

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The Researcher
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610 Posts
Nope

The tire size is not that far off from Stock for it to be noticable to the computer. No problems ever with the ABS light.


The front run around 75 psi, the back I'm not sure cause I never hooked up the gauges lol.
 

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praise the lower'd
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1,024 Posts
with your 225/50/16s how close are your tires to the inner fenders when your air out?? i want to get some of the zq8 wheels for my 99 s-10 but im not sure what size tires to run for when i get baggs

with the setup i want (airride front kit with 2" spindles) and 215 40 17 the tires are supose to be about an inch from the inner fender when aired out

also what is your front setup??
sorry for all the questions

thanks
scott
 

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The Researcher
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610 Posts
My front

The front tires and rims I am running now are equivalent to 225/35/18 I believe.

I have maybe a half inch or so before rubbing. The right side rubs a little all the way down.

My front kit is an Air Ride Technologies set up, We retail them as well as or own of similar design.

If you still have an inch of clearance with the wheel set up u want to use then the mounts can be trimmed to gain another inch with some other lil things.
 

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praise the lower'd
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1,024 Posts
you have drop spindles with your bags right?

and could you give me the address right to your movie. i found it last night but cant find it today

thanks a lot
scott

also could you tell me a little about the"S10 Hanger bearing crossmember."

will this work on a 99 s-10 reg cab/bed 2.2

thanx again
 

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The Researcher
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610 Posts
here ya go

http://www.alteredaltitude.com/wtf/wtf.html Link to my movie, its the one on the bottom hand left. Also check out a video of the railing going on at North Of The Border Bash up here.

Yes, I have spindles, I can get ya a price on those if you like.

The hanger bearing is not needed on your truck. They replace the crossmember that supports the hanger bearing/driveshaft on the extended cabs. We have these two humps that hand down below the frame that everyone seems to drag, I bang mine off the ground or imbed them in asphault everytime I drop my truck.


Anything else let me know such as pricing and what not.
 

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The Researcher
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HaHa

Kewl
 

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HWA:Honkies With Attitude
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280 Posts
yeah it should be pretty easy to hook up actually. i thought about doing it for a while, but i havent decided. i didnt want to spend all the $$ for switches and stuff. plus i want power windows...
 

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~~~~
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23,957 Posts
I may be wrong but the wire setup for the switch switches the (+) and (-) leg of the batt to the window motor.

so it takes (+)(-) and makes it (-)(+) for up and (+)(-) for down so

you would have to rip it apart and re wire it or insall diodes in line and run each wire (+) and (-) to your fill and dump valve so when window up (+) will go through the valve and into ground and the outer leg will shoot (-) to the valve then to ground (the valve will stay off) make sense?

lol
 

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Drumguy999 said:
yeah it should be pretty easy to hook up actually. i thought about doing it for a while, but i havent decided. i didnt want to spend all the $$ for switches and stuff. plus i want power windows...
Just curious, but why did you bring back a 4 year old thread?
 

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Drivin' 2 Noma's
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SlammedDime said:
Just curious, but why did you bring back a 4 year old thread?
Thats exactly what I was thinkin'
 

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HWA:Honkies With Attitude
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LOL, sorry guys!! i was searchin for something earlier, and this came up, i didnt even f-in pay attention to the date! oh well, i suppose it has been resolved by now in that case...... :rotf:
 

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Severed Ties Petitioning
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2,553 Posts
old thread, but I am running power window switches out of an explorer, with no relays, and have no problems. I have only individual control, but I get used to it. easier to adjust more precisely IMO
 
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