[oldeerslayer]

You got it.
Looking at some pics on here of them installed one thing I noticed was the bolt hole location on the end flange on the pass side seems to line up perfectly with the floor and firewall. If it was rotated 15° toward the block it would be a lot easier to deal with. Got a suspicion I'm gonna be pulling the inner fender again.
Another @S10dude pic:

 

[Rhotpursuit]

I can't remember if we adjusted anything or not.

 

[Harley]

It was tight. And @oldeerslayer has some good ideas with rotating the flange holes. I'd also love to see them use a 3 bolt flange - 2 is a bit weak.

 

[oldeerslayer]

I found on the headers, which have a rotatable flange, that it worked best clocked just inside that firewall corner.
On the manifold I really don't want to cut and re-weld the Chinese cast iron.
Another case of Holley getting it almost right. Seems I say that a lot.
They make good parts, but always seem to miss the minor details.
Like the bolt flange on the dipstick. Just needs a bit of grinding and the right bolt.
That time adds up over the course of the whole project to a lot of wasted hours.
What with on and off a dozen times. Then parts chasing.
Or in my case, hours spent digging thru 3 five gallon bucket for the right bolt.

 

[EZA]

No fun having to modify parts you paid top dollar for... I use to try and save every dollar and fab or modify existing parts. But now at my age and limited facilities I'd rather just pay the cash....but I expect it to fit.

 

[S10dude]

i have had exhaust off a couple times now and its easier to get to that it looks in pic ....( 18in extension )

 

[goes2fast]

No fun having to modify parts you paid top dollar for... I use to try and save every dollar and fab or modify existing parts. But now at my age and limited facilities, I'd rather just pay the cash....but I expect it to fit.

Happy to see you started this thread finally. Some cut the flange off and weld on a V-band clamp flang on for a secure no-leak fit. That's just an idea for what it's worth. I recently read an article on a turbo build using Hooker cast manifolds where they did that.

 

[EZA]

Should be doing a trial fit shortly, then I can see how everything lines up with the Holley high mount kit and cast manifolds. This truck had five speed but I have a 4L60E cross member from my donor truck, hopefully it won't need modifying?

 

[EZA]

All set to do a trial fit only to discover that only the 2.2 frame mount holes were tapped.

 

[oldeerslayer]

In the early years none were tapped. It is possible to get a nut in there for each one, but extremely tricky. Some of the guys used to cut a small rectangular hole in the frame to get a straight shot in from the side. It works best when doing that to drill round holes for each corner of the slot first so you don't have square corners on the finished slots. Not that I've ever heard of any problems, but round corners prevent any stress cracks from starting and look more like the holes could have been OEM. It also helps to use flange nuts to keep the nuts from falling out of the box wrench. Putting a dab of grease or form a gasket on the outside of them helps keep them in the wrench, too. Since you have a parts truck you should find them all over it. Or you can get them at any hardware or DIY center for 50¢ a piece. Locktite helps prevent the from ever loosening up, which they probably won't anyway. Especially if you spin the bolts in with an impact on a middle setting.

 

[EZA]

Are you saying there isn't enough meat in the frame to tap them? I didn't look at the holes real close, just tried to screw in a bolt and discovered they weren't tapped.

 

[jay27]

I think he was making a suggestion , you can tap those mount holes. Mine were not tapped either , found a tap and spent a few minutes and all is good.

 

[jay27]

Just a thought , You may want to spin your engine installer around so the handle is facing you and does not catch the firewall cowl area. The driver side of my engine is 3/4 of an inch from the firewall to the back of the cylinder head.

 

[Lonnie P]

Also if you bolt one of the hanging chains to the rear of the engine, the bolt may not come back out once the engine is on the mounts, due to the close proximity to the firewall.
I learned this the hard way & had to cut the bolt in half with a saw to remove it from the engine.

 

[EZA]

Thanks guys, good points on the engine installer / bolts, yeah I went out this morning and there's plenty of metal for tapping threads. Been too busy today between pressure cleaning the patio and getting parts off the donor truck.