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B4U Task Force Admin
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Mine fit with no issues.
 

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Mine wouldn't go up into the column far enough for the u-joint to slide over top of the steering box splines. After taking it on and off the usual 4 or 5 times while working out how everything fit, by smacking it upward with a hammer, I finally decided to shorten it a bit before I ruined something in the column.
My truck is a 99 with 125K on it. I'm sure your shaft is much better broken in.
 

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Odd that the columns would be so different. Maybe it was a dried up chunk of grease.
 

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99 vs 96 could be some difference?
 

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Sorry for giving credit to the wrong guy. Just happened to see the pic 5 minutes before reading EZA's question, so I copied it here for him to see how close everything is.
I've used an Astro u-joint, but had to reclock the shaft 90° by disassembling the u-joint.
I gather you just bought a u-joint and some DD tube?
Probably fits better than the Holley one. I bought one and had to shorten it 1/2" to get it on. Thought afterwards that I should have just built one. Wouldn't have taken any longer than figuring out what was wrong with the store bought one and modding it. Seems to be a common theme with Holley parts. Only need a bit of work to fit.
When you finally do get it.
U Joints can be had for $30 on eBay from my experience. Hard part is finding an affordable length of Double D tube. I ended up buying 4 foot or something and shared it around with some friends, but probably ended up in as much as Holley.

I also replaced the tulip joint in the column and gave myself some extra clearance by using the narrow solid portion near the manifold, so potential to improve upon the Holley design with some effort. Holley parts weren't available when I did mine, though.



 

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That's the reason I gave the Holley a try. By the time you buy a u-joint and more DD tubing than you need the cost was almost the same. For $10 more let them do it.
 

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If you haven't already look on eBay.

I ended up using far less than I thought I would by getting creative with all the pieces, but the easy route, I think, needs at least 18"
 

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I think they only work on 1st gens, maybe a '94 too.
 

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I used one on my 2000 Blazer for awhile. I don't remember why, but it was clocked wrong when I went to modify things again with the 5.3 swap.

I think the right application for a 2nd gen is a Grand Cherokee while 1st gen is a Cherokee or it's the other way haha 1st gen needs joints top and bottom, while the 2nd gen needs just the bottom joint.
 

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Sorry for giving credit to the wrong guy. Just happened to see the pic 5 minutes before reading EZA's question, so I copied it here for him to see how close everything is.
I've used an Astro u-joint, but had to reclock the shaft 90° by disassembling the u-joint.
I gather you just bought a u-joint and some DD tube?
Probably fits better than the Holley one. I bought one and had to shorten it 1/2" to get it on. Thought afterwards that I should have just built one. Wouldn't have taken any longer than figuring out what was wrong with the store bought one and modding it. Seems to be a common theme with Holley parts. Only need a bit of work to fit.
When you finally do get it.

yes i had Flaming River U-joint before LS swap so i bought 3ft of D shaft off EBAY ( $30) and made my own . it is also still collapsible in a wreck .
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Anyone got a picture of the Holley steering shaft installed using the Hooker cast manifolds, 2wd? Did a search and found one but not sure if it's 2wd or 4wd.
 

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I didn’t think to take any pics before all of the other parts were installed. It’s not hardly visible now. I don’t know if @Harley has any pics. It is a tight fit...but it works.
 

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Anyone got a picture of the Holley steering shaft installed using the Hooker cast manifolds, 2wd? Did a search and found one but not sure if it's 2wd or 4wd.
I will have when the weather around here breaks and I pull off my cheapazz headers.
 

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