S-10 Forum banner

Back end seems low... Raise it? Or lower the front?

856 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  RobSmith
Hey guys,

Coming up on my 2WD, 95 S-10 w/4.3 auto yesterday in the parking lot and I'm like "Is my *** end lower than the front end?"

Opinions welcome. Also, is it easier to raise the back end an inch, or lower the front end an inch to match?

I don't haul much, don't trailer, and pretty much just use it as a non-modded daily driver.

Thanks!
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Automotive parking light Car
See less See more
2
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
I would only worry about it if you were hauling a trailer or heavy loads. From the factory truck beds are higher than the front to compensate for the weight in the back. Kinda like a flatbed semi-trailer and how it is arched instead of flat. Most likely your leaf springs are starting to show their age. I wouldn't raise the back or the front unless you absolutely want a level truck. If you wanted to replace anything I would recommend replacing the leaf springs and shocks. It should raise the back to factory height if you get the correct parts. Another thing to note, the factory leaf springs on my 94 S10 are strong as ****. I put enough scrap metal in the bed to basically fully flatten the leafs. My tailpipe would scrape when I reversed out of my driveway. Once I dropped the metal off, they returned back to normal with no problems. I think the total weight of scrap metal was around 1000 pounds. Can't remember the exact weight. Anyways, that is my recommendation.
You have a great day,
Gavin
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Good advice, Gavin. Thanks.
I've always had good luck with load levellers, or whatever you'd call the rear shocks that come with coils added over the top half; Gabriel has Load Carriers, Monroe has Load Adjusting Shocks. The mfg say the additional lift only kicks in when additional load is put on, but I've always found that as soon as installed, the rear sets higher by up to an inch. Plus it handles loads better of course. Not huge money, seem to last forever.
  • Like
Reactions: 4
A pair of overleaf helper springs from autozone helped to fix the sagging rear end on mine. Nice lookin truck.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
A pair of overleaf helper springs from autozone helped to fix the sagging rear end on mine. Nice lookin truck.
Cause it looks like yours!
Nice looking truck YOU have there!
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I was thinking about your thread and later remembered that I had an air shock system on a warmed over '88 Caprice wagon. It was great, never a problem and always worked just the way I wanted. It had the rear shocks, an air control valve mounted back there on the frame, under the hood was an electric air pump, and on the dash an analog pressure gauge and buttons to control it on a little panel. I could adjust the air pressure in the shocks any time, even on the run. That car saw a lot of miles between MA, IA, GA, with our boys, dogs, often loaded heavy, then unloaded, and that system made a great difference. Might be more than you want, but there's an option that works.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
looks stock, i wouldn't touch it
  • Like
Reactions: 1
My truck is a 2003 RCSB 4.3L ZQ8 (so different suspension and wheel base) and when new the rear tire to fender gap was about 2" higher than the front. After 20 years, installing 1/2" tall lower ball joints to the front (lowered it 1/2") and 1" blocks to the rear, along with new Bilstein shocks and 268K miles it now sit roughly 1" higher in the rear.

It honestly looks pretty normal to me for a long bed S10. I know how and where my truck is parked will affect my perception: sometimes it looks level, other times it looks like it has a decent rake. If you use your truck as a daily driver and it rides fine to you, I'd agree with leaving it alone and save your money and time.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Does not look as if there are any issues with the way it sits.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Do a big block or LS iron block swap, problem solved.
Wasn't that easy???
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: 3
Do a big block or LS iron block swap, problem solved.
Wasn't that easy???
Well, that's better than duct taping cinder locks on the hood (my original idea).

I like your idea beter.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top