[MSI_Boomin]

Gettin ready to buy a '99 s-10, and the first thing i want to do is to get that crappy sound system out and put a nice one in, not competition quality(4000watts). im not a audio man though, more of a mechanic. Would replacing stock speakers w/ JBL and puttin an 8 or 10 sub behind the seat produce pretty good results. also, would i need an amp w/ a setup like that?

 

[davets]

firstly i started with getting a new deck, in my 89 accord i had a jensen chd-1000, and now its found home in my truck, does what i need it to do and sounds good

i have a '00 reg cab with jbl gti( i think) 6.5's in the doors and the stock in the dash, althought they would realy benefit from being replaced

what i did for some added low until my income increases was purchase a MTX 421d and borrowed my friends 6.5 inch 'sub'.. haha yea laugh.. but for a total cost of around $175(amp) i cant complain

 

[laynlow03xtreme]

Buy a quality radio, such as Pioneer, Alpine, Eclipse, or Clarion. Any of those 4 radios will have enough power to run JBL coaxial speakers. As far as doing a subwoofer, yes you will need to run an external amp. Another option you have, is buy an infinity basslink, or bazooka amplified bass tube. Either of those units have the amp built into the enclosure. They wont have the output of a component 10" subwoofer, but will round out the sound and reproduce the bass that the dash and door speakers cannot.

 

[silverS-10ondubs]

Make sure you buy a quality deck... Dont get a low end deck to save money, it will just cost you more in the long run... If you want the best quality sound i would get an Alpine deck... If you want somethin more flashy wit like lil pic and shit get a pioneer or clarion.... Now for your bass you will get much more bass from a 10in sub wit an external amp... the problem wit that is the size of the box amp ect... If you want less bass and not as good as quality bass, but you need the space go wit a pre-amped tube... gl

 

[silverS-10ondubs]

O yea when you buy the wire for your bass make sure you get 4 guage wire.... and make sure you get a high quality glass case fuse...

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

I would buy a quality head unit, preferably something with 4 Volt preouts, a nice set of 6.5" component seperates, a 10" sub, and a 4 channel amp. Mount the 6.5's in the doors, the tweeters in the dash instead of the 4x6's, and a 10" sub behind the passenger seat. Use 1 channel for each side of the seperates, and bridge the rear 2 channels for the sub. You will have a killer system, for a reasonable price. Use 4 guage power and ground cables, a good set of 4 channel rca's and save yourself the trouble and buy a circuit breaker instead of a fuse holder.

 

[Livewire]

:stupid:

 

[laynlow03xtreme]

I would buy a quality head unit, preferably something with 4 Volt preouts, a nice set of 6.5" component seperates, a 10" sub, and a 4 channel amp. Mount the 6.5's in the doors, the tweeters in the dash instead of the 4x6's, and a 10" sub behind the passenger seat. Use 1 channel for each side of the seperates, and bridge the rear 2 channels for the sub. You will have a killer system, for a reasonable price. Use 4 guage power and ground cables, a good set of 4 channel rca's and save yourself the trouble and buy a circuit breaker instead of a fuse holder.

Isnt that what I just wrote?

Anways, If you plan on doing components, I wouldnt mount the mid in the door, and tweeter in the dash, its gonna mess up the imaging and soundstage. Whats the point of a component speaker system if your going to do that.

Circuit breaker and fuse holder are going to do the same job. Most experienced installers will pick a fuse holder do to the fact the fuse will blow quicker if for some reason there is a short. If your choosing a circuit breaker instead of fuse to fix that problem, theres something wrong with your actual installation and equipment.

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

If you want to go toe-to-toe with my installer, go right ahead, he has been taught by "Fishman" himself. Sound Decision in Montgomery, IL is the place that does all of my work...If you read any car audio magazines, I am sure you have seen one or two of his installs.

Isnt that what I just wrote?

Anways, If you plan on doing components, I wouldnt mount the mid in the door, and tweeter in the dash, its gonna mess up the imaging and soundstage. Whats the point of a component speaker system if your going to do that.

Circuit breaker and fuse holder are going to do the same job. Most experienced installers will pick a fuse holder do to the fact the fuse will blow quicker if for some reason there is a short. If your choosing a circuit breaker instead of fuse to fix that problem, theres something wrong with your actual installation and equipment.

I have had 5 different systems between my 2 S-10's, and have heard at least a dozen others...Every good system I have done or heard had the mid in the door and the tweeter in the dash...either way you do it bro, you will be satisfied...And as far as the fuse holder and the circuit breaker is concerned, it is up to you. Make sure the amp rating on the circuit breaker matches the current draw, if not slightly higher than the current draw of the amp. If the amp isn't drawing too much current, then a circuit breaker isn't really necessary.

 

[Livewire]

I got my woofer in the door and my tweeter in the dash. You close your eyes and all the sound come from one point.

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

I got my woofer in the door and my tweeter in the dash. You close your eyes and all the sound come from one point.

Amen to that. If the tweeters are angled properly, the soundstage and imaging will be amazing. :rock:

 

[laynlow03xtreme]

Maybe I should try it in my truck then. From my experience in other cars, it sounded horrible splitting the speakers up like that. I learned from my mistake doing that originally in a car, and always did both the tweeter and mid in the door in following cars with very good results. Guess it depends on the vehicle

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

You would be surprise laynlow03xtreme...it really does have a lot to do with the vehicle. When I did my first big install in my 98, the shop wasn't sure if it would sound right with the tweeter in the dash and the mid in the door. We did it, and both the installer and I were impressed...give it a try, couldn't hurt. I had the tweeters in the doors in my Integra, didn't like the way it sounded compared to when they were in the dash in my S-10.

 

[laynlow03xtreme]

I just made some plates out of ABS today to mount my tweeters in the dash..lol. Do any of you have pics of how your tweeters are angled? If not, how are they angled? Towards the window, towards the driver, towards the center of the cab, towards the A-pillar?

 

[Livewire]

mine are mounted straight up, the sound bounces right off the windshield.

 

[MSI_Boomin]

so, when you say mids in the door, you mean a set of 6 1/2 component speakers? 2 tweeter in the dash facing up, a 10 inch sub, and a 4 channel amp. Two speakers doesnt sound like much, am i going to be skimping myself out?

 

[MSI_Boomin]

I ve seen what the component systems look like. do the 6 1/2s mount in the factory door location? What does the crossover do, and where would i put it? Thanks for holding my hand and walking me through this...

 

[93ex]

If you want somethin more flashy wit like lil pic and shit get a pioneer or clarion....

thats funny, my clarion doesnt have any pictures or anythign... musta gotten a defective one

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

6 1/2's mount in the door, tweeters mount in the dash, or in the door if you want. They will be plenty of sound. The crossover allows the speaker to only play a certain range of frequencies...they are usually mounted in the door, or under the dash...if you want to show them off, then mount them next to your amp...they can pretty much go wherever you want.

 

[c0nfus3d dime]

I have my tweeters angled towards the center, perpendicular to the windshield rather than just flat facing up...so more angled towards the seats