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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Original wheels are 205/75/14, diameter 26" , width 8.1". I think they are factory14 x 6 wheels not sure of backspace.

245/60/15 on 15x8, Im wondering if they would fit they have a 26.6" diameter and 9.6" width. If I cant find longer control arms, I could use spacers or wheels with less backspace. The goal is for a wider stance, 1.5" past the wheel wells.

It would be great if I wouldnt have to lift the truck to get the look I want.
 

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2002 S10 LS Extra Cab 4.3L 2WD. 2/3 drop
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I'm running 255/60/15 rear and 215/70/15 front.
2/3 drop, tall lower ball joints.
Still inside the well, but front barely rubs at full lock.
Also on stock '02 wheels.

Maybe this info is useful...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm running 255/60/15 rear and 215/70/15 front.
2/3 drop, tall lower ball joints.
Still inside the well, but front barely rubs at full lock.
Also on stock '02 wheels.

Maybe this info is useful...
Thanks MK.
 

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Sounds like your trying to use 4wd wheels with a bunch of offset. Stock 15" 2wd wheels should have no issues with a tire 1/2" taller and 1-1/2" wider. Or any other 0 offset 15x8 wheels.
You will need 2-1/2" spacers to get near the poke you want. That could cause some rubbing on the fenders. Nothing a 3# hammer or Sawzall can't cure.
If you're using 4wd or some other wheels with 2" (50mm) positive offset there's no way to get them out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like your trying to use 4wd wheels with a bunch of offset. Stock 15" 2wd wheels should have no issues with a tire 1/2" taller and 1-1/2" wider. Or any other 0 offset 15x8 wheels.
You will need 2-1/2" spacers to get near the poke you want. That could cause some rubbing on the fenders. Nothing a 3# hammer or Sawzall can't cure.
If you're using 4wd or some other wheels with 2" (50mm) positive offset there's no way to get them out there.
Thanks. I dont have the wheels yet. Whats on there now is just the skinny 14x6 2wd wheels. So I have to pick some wheels and you are tellling me they should have zero offset. So do factory 15x7s have zero offset? If so that would mean 3.5" of backspacing correct? So then I need a 2.5" spacer for a total backspace of 6" correct? If it the new tire was 1.5" wider then the wheel would only have to be 3/4" further away from the hub flange than stock correct? So a 3/4" spacer would bring me to stock poke which is no poke at all. So then add 2.5" spacer and depending how far the outer edge of the tire is away from the wheel well at this point and if its 1" away still , then the 2.5" spacers will bring to 1.5" of poke which is what I want. I have to do some measuring tomorrow. This is very interesting, I think Im figuring out what I need now. thanks. no sawzall or hammers LOL.
 

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Sounds like you're learning offset and backspacing. Got it right except for one minor detail.
Offset is measured at the same place the wheel's width is measured - the inside if the bead. That is what the tire mounts against. A 7" wheel is 7 inches from inside of bead to inside of bead. It's a tire to wheel dimension. So a 0 offset (stock) 7" wheel has 3.5" tire either side of the wheel mounting surface at the bead. The WMS is the flat part of the wheels center section that mounts to the hub of the vehicle. Usually at the matching flat surface of the brake rotor. You got all this stuff right.
Backspacing is a wheel to vehicle dimension and has nothing to do with the tire. It is measured from the WMS to the overall inside of the wheel. What's different is that it's the outside of the bead, not the inside of the bead. Nearly all modern wheels are JJ wheels. Which means the bead is 1/2" thick from the bead where the tire mounts to the outer edge of the wheel. A 7" wheel, since it has an outer and inner bead, measure overall 8" wide. That makes the backspacing 4" on a stock 0 offset 15x7 wheel. In other words you can figure out the backspacing by figuring out the offset + 1/2 inch.
In the case of your 0 offset 15x7 3.5 + .5 = 4".
A 4wd and a lot of FWD use somewhere around 50mm positive offset. Since 25.4mm is 1 inch. You are essentially talking 2". A 4wd stock 15x7 has 6"of back spacing because the WMS is moved outward 2".
The opposite direction from where you want to go. They do make wheels with negative offset. The WMS is moved toward the frame of the vehicle. Which would help you get to your desired poke.
Bear in mind, tho, the farther out the wheel is the more of the width of the tire has to clear the outer fender. That's what causes poked wheels to hit the fender when turning. About the only way to decrease any contact is to jack the truck up.
That only works because most fenders are open more closer to the bottom of the opening. Unfortunately there is no cut and dried way to figure out how much is needed. 2 identical trucks will be close, but not the same do to age, wear, abuse, accidents, etc. On my ZR2 my drivers side just rubs a bit at the front and the passengers side clears with 1/2" to spare. But the truck has 201K. Somewhere in a past life the body got moved back a hair on the frame. Could've been in a fender bender at one time.
When you're done it'll likely have a harsh ride, handling will suck because the center of gravity has been raised, and will sling mud down both sides everytime you go through a puddle. Sure that's what you want?
As far as looking cool goes, that look is only cool in some circles and is starting to get old. I remember when bubble fender skirts and lake pipes were cool.

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