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I need to put a new head gasket on my girlfriend's truck in the next few days. Coolant is leaking down the side of the block from the back of the head.

Is there a gasket set that you would recomend (head, intake, exhaust, valve cover etc.)? I saw the sticky at the top of page, did anyone figure out the gasket problem?

Is there any common problems I should watch out for?

The truck is '95 2.2L with 112,000 miles. I was planning on pulling the head off with the intake and exhaust manifolds still connected, will that work? I am going to have the head milled and a valve job done on it. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there (timing chain, etc.)? I'm trying to get this done cheap an right.

Thanks for any help. It looks like you guys have great forum here with a lot of info.


Dustin
 

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It would be a good idea to replace valve cover gasket if it is old, and intake gasket(it will get torn). Exhaust gasket, You can reuse (it is metal.)
I would replace head bolts too (some of head bolts might be corroded in, because of the leak, so be prepared to grinde them out.) Be careful not to strip the heads of the head bolts, they have a lot of torque on them(you will need help to someone keep socket straigt on, so you will not strip)
I would recomend cleaning inside the intake (from throttle to valves). Carb-Off STP is pretty good. if You do that You will need another intake gasket (between head and intake plenum)
Did You do search on here, there are posts with pictures and so forth on this topic.
 

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Do I need a gas mask?!
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usually when you buy a head gasket, it comes in a kit. The fel pro kit i got came with head gasket, intake gaskets, valve cover gasket, thermostat housing gaskey, valve stem seals, exhaust manny gaskets and a couple others. its like $99 but hey, when its done, if correctly, its done well, and makes things fresh
 

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I got a complete head gasket set for $69 at advance auto. It came complete with everything needed. The first time out they gave me a 2.2 Chrsyler set though, no chance of that working!

If you are going to tear it down that far I'd do the timing chain and tensioner and new hoses and belt. You'll need a gear puller and a female torx bit set to get the timing cover off. The head is fairly easy to do, my only problem was getting to the lower bolt on the intake manifold. The two in the rear are a bee-yatch! I didn't have enough clearance to pull the head with the intake side on, it was hitting on the A/C line. The exhaust manifold bolts were easy to get to. You should be able to do everything in a weekend for under $300, let me know if you need any advice, I just did mine two weeks ago so it is all still fresh! Look at my 2.2 timing chain post here for my story and you'll see why I say do the timing chain!

Ed
 

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Dustin,

I've had the head off of my '95. I remove the exhaust manifold, but the intake can stay bolted on the head. Be sure to remove the fastener holding the fuel line to the bottom of the intake.
I've found that buying the head gasket and intake and exhaust manifold to head gaskets is cheaper than a whole head set. The head set comes with valve seals and some gaskets that you may not need, depending on how deep you go. I used high temp rtv on the egr mount, and it held up fine.

Fwi - at 112K, I would have a valve job done. At 107K, my valve faces and seats were pitted pretty badly. Hopefully, your head isn't cracked or warped, but I would have it pressure tested and surfaced for sure. Also, I usually have no trouble with Felpro gaskets on other engines, but I replaced my stock gasket with one at 48K, again at 83K, and then again at 107K. Each time, I was lucky that the head wasn't cracked, and it surfaced with just a few thousandths cut. Iused ne bolts every time. I'm not sure why the gaskets kept failing. It always would loose a little coolant over time, and eventually the gasket would fail. I used a Victor last time, and it isn't using any coolant so far [15K].
Good luck.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot for the help. The truck does not have A/c so I think I will be fine leaving the intake manifold on. I bought the entire head set at advance auto for $67. I also got new head bolts. Once I get it off I am going to decide if I need to have it machined or not. I might just clean it up and make sure it is flat. The truck really only needs to last about another 6 months, I don't want to spend any money on it that I don't have to.

Thanks again for the help
Dustin
 

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Dustin,
If you have a freindly machine shop, they might do the pressure testing and surfacing without doing a valve job. If no, I guess you can give it your best shot. My truck has air, so I'm sure you'll have an easier time getting the head off and on with the intake in place. Even with air, it's not that tough imo. Much much easier than fighting the intake off and on with the engine in place. You need not remove the upper plenum either. You'll need to remove the fuel line from the back of the fuel rail first too. Make sure to oil the bolts' threads, and under the bolt heads.
Dave
 
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