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Can't fly when your High
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been doing some research on here for a few weeks now, and firgured out that i need a 4 degree shim for my lowering blocks. I have a buddy who has a bridgeport milling machine, and he can cut my blocks at a 4 degree angle. this wouldn't hurt at all will it? I think it may be a good idea and money saver since i already have the blocks.

Has anyone ever done this before. Please i love to hear some great pro's and cons of my idea. Thanks guys
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
no one has impute on this question. Does anyone else feel that their question is way overlooked and ignored? I feel like that sometime.
 

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Yeah what kind are they and are you talking about cutting the angle at the top of the block or the bottom?

no one has impute on this question. Does anyone else feel that their question is way overlooked and ignored? I feel like that sometime.
Give us a little more than 5 hours, we're not getting paid to do this.
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they are not solid blocks. I think it would be better to machine the part that rides on the leaf spring right? Because when you buy a angled shim for like JTR that would ride between the block and leaf, am i correct?
 

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See this is what I don't understand. It seems to me that if you put the shim at the bottom the block would be sitting at an angle pushing the axle downward and towards the front of the truck whereas if the shim is on top of the block it merely turns the axle downward.

I'd get new blocks and sell your current ones, they're cheap. Some companies make shims that are specific to their blocks, if whoever made yours makes shims then of course you could just go that route.
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i'm a little cheap when it comes to certain things. I have a wife, little girl, and another on the way. I mean i know i can afford new blocks. i don't see the problem with just milling my blocks i have now, i can do them for free, I just need a little time to pull my blocks out. I just needed some insight to see if anyone has done this before.

What's the difference if you buy a angled block, or mill a flat block? It's the same thing i believe?

does anyone have picture of a angled block, and a straight block side by side. In the instructions on a angled block, where do they want you to put the angled part. top or bottom? does the angled part go agianst the axel or agianst the leaf spring? I'm starting to get confuzzed here.
 

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I thought u put the shim on top because that is where the angle is for the angled blocks.id say jus screw the blocks and either remove a leaf or get fro leafs
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes i did some looking on the JTR site, and they wanted you to bolt the alighnment shim on top of the block. and of course the fat part goes towards the back of truck. So why nut just mill the top of my block 4 degrees, and re-install them.

has anyone just made there own lift brackets for the back of the transmision? the JTR site shows they are 3/4 inch thick. I'm sure i can make them as well. I'm a diesel mechanic for about 8 years now. I have access to parts and spare metal laying,, i'm sure i can make something
 

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keep on keepin on...
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Jtr is the way to go. I played around with 2 other sets of blocks before I bit the bullet and got the jtr ones. Save yourself the headache. Trust me, been there....
 

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Sure why not.
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Just doesnt seem like a good idea to mill extruded aluminum which are already cheap blocks prone to failure... Also the pin will not be angled if you mill the top of the block youll have a straight alignment pin tilted 4 degrees to the rear trying to fight the top of the block surface that you just cut to lay 4 degrees to the front putting stress on it or you can just drop the price of a half tank of gas on a new set of angled ones and get a free set of U bolts.
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you got me thinkin now cause i was wondering about u bolts. I already took mine apart 2 times now. to put in my set back plates and they were a pain to back the nut off. Also i was wondering about the pin at the top of the block. with a little work i know the machinest can make pin work.

Next Question. IF i buy the JTR blocks, i see that they don't sell just a tappered block. you need to buy the block and the shim. I def want the 6 inch drop in the back.. but i'd like 5.5 instead because of my set back plates. the truck is about a half inch lower in the rear than the front now. So will the angle shim lower the truck more? maybe by a quater inch? I really like JTR's bigger U bolts as well.
 

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Just doesnt seem like a good idea to mill extruded aluminum which are already cheap blocks prone to failure... Also the pin will not be angled if you mill the top of the block youll have a straight alignment pin tilted 4 degrees to the rear trying to fight the top of the block surface that you just cut to lay 4 degrees to the front putting stress on it or you can just drop the price of a half tank of gas on a new set of angled ones and get a free set of U bolts.
Damn you beat me to it. I was just fixing to say this once he started talking about milling the top.

Also i was wondering about the pin at the top of the block. with a little work i know the machinest can make pin work.
Like rhygin said, If they're hollow blocks then the pin will be at an angle and stick through the center part of the block.

So will the angle shim lower the truck more? maybe by a quater inch
yep
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i talked to my buddy with the machine shop today on the phone, and i said i was just gonna buy new blocks. because the JTR blocks come with 9/16ths u bolts and i like the sound of those alot better than my "used" 1/2 ones i got with my Hollow blocks.

poeple help me out here. with my 3 inch blocks and 3 inch springs and axel set back plates my truck sits about a half inch lower in the rear. so with a 3 inch block, and axel set back plate that's 3/8ths of an inch, then a shim that'll add a quater inch i'm thinking. So would a 2 inch block plus all that junk added on top give me what i'm looking for, or do i get a 3 inch block. "solid" and machine a half inch off that?
 
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9/16 is bigger than a 1/2 and they're also the proper size. s-series' left the factory with the bigger u-bolts but everybody only makes crappy universal 1/2 versions unless you know where to look to get the correct sized u-bolts....like JTR. lol
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i'll just get a 3 inch block and machine it down to 2.6 inches. then i should be at a ride height of 5.5 in the rear i hope.
 

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Can't fly when your High
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
there's also a few little shops around here that makes U bolts for any application. i can have them made in 3/4 bolt size if i wanted too
 
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