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I am running a aluminum shaft out of a trailblazer in a 1st gen regular cab and short bed. the shaft was the about the same size as the factory one. Maybe a half to a inch shorter which is good for lowered trucks. Did not have to cut just installed. works great

Robert
Did this work for you was there any problems at all. I have 2000 ex-cab long box with a bad vibration .I have all new u joints and center bearing and still drives mr nuts. Please let me know if this worked .
 

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so ever since i bouht my 1998 Chevy s10 2wd, v6 , automatic
i've Always have had big problems with my driveshaft.
changed all u-joints and made a completly new socket sfor that CV-joint. well it was ok for this summer... now it's bad again.
sick and tired of that piece of sh*t DS .. so i really want to get rid of that split shaft or what they're called and go for a single shaft.

got many good suggestions about driveshafts from Sonoma, hombre etc..
well these trucks was never sold in Sweden so there is no parts for them to get here..

so i found this thread and ben Reading a bit but since most of you have lowered trucks i get quite confused... so i just want to se if i'm following this correctly.

a Chevy silverade 2500 alu. shaft will work on my Chevy s10 -98 ,v6 aut.
all i need is to shorten it and change the joint to the tranny?

small info about my truck: at the moment its stock ride height, planning om liftin it at least 2" in the rear and 3" spindles in front. i have steel DS (2piece)
want to get rid of most of the vibrations, noise (the klonking) and i need to be able to load it quite Heavy, max 881lb (400 kg) since i ride dirtbikes and such , almost Always loaded with something...

am i somewhere near what i thought i understood from this thread?

best regards
MarkusJH - the Swede

(sorry for bad Spelling and bad language )
 

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yep those are rare driveshafts... the auto trans extcab 4.3 has 2 CV joints on it.. total of 5 u-joints for both shafts...you can get a rebuild kit for the CV from some parts stores for about 36 bucks... but its aggrivating the replace unless your very mechanically inclined and have the right tools... you can get the entire replacement CV assembly for 171 bucks and for those that may not know... there is a grease fitting on the CV joints... you need a needle adapter for your grease gun.. 12$ they come from the factory with the grease fitting..it amazed me at the shops and dealships that didnt even know they had a grease fitting ... I think the assembly is called a double cardan joint...
 

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hawaiian s10
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ive replace the rear section of driveshaft in a few trucks with the cardine joints. They have worked just fine. The cardine jionts are junk.
would you happen to have info on replacing just the rear section of an 03 s10 extreme ds. im planning on swapping the rear end to a 2wd blazer rear end with disc brakes, but in the mean time I would like to get rid of the cardigan joints and just make straight rear section. I would like to keep the flange and not have to replace the yoke.

thanks
 

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FWD's suck
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·

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There are differences between the S-10 frames by model, i have done many of the conversions on these S-10s since the 90's

You can use depending on power and use and trans either 3.5" AL to 5" AL.
While the majority only need 3.5" AL and some need 4".
They all need the body cross-member modified, some need the chassis cross-member modified, some of the more extreme need a adjustable bottom out bushing to keep them from contacting the shaft.

Chevy had a piss poor design and some of the S-10's usually the sport extended cab and extreme S-10s had the 2pc.
The 2pc with the dbl cv head assembly was because of the body cross-member and the shaft coming out straight and then running up.
GM decided that have sag make a shaft to go around that then redesign the body members for those models.
 

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2001 Chevrolet S10 Xtreme
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The problem with the extended cab is that the rear spring were based on the 4 cylinder power plant (too weak for the application) so you had excessive axle wrap.
In order to compensate for the axle wrap the three rivers plant decided to put 2 cv heads on the rear half of this shaft in an effort to eliminate a "take off shudder".
The extreme was a completely different extreme set of problems be cause the rear springs are the same but that truck was made lowered slightly from the factory. Now when they lowered that truck factory they didn't compensate the pinion angle for the drop, so as a result you have a pinion angle that is est. 6 degrees over centerline of the driveshaft.
So when I do one of these in house I will re-angle with aluminum 6 degree shims and then build a complete replacement 2 piece replacement driveshaft. The replacement shaft will still have the cv heads on the rear but I upgrade them from the factory Saginaw setup to a more modern Spicer setup. Pricing on the complete new driveshaft is $995 and the re-angle price would be est. $225. So the point is that if you go to a single piece not only will it hit the cab, but it as well as going to a single u-joint setup will wind up with an extreme take-off shudder.
Please call with any questions.

Thanks
Craig Stein
Please contact us at [email protected].
Our website is www.driveshaftspecialist.com Toll free# 1.866.455.6622 Thanks
 

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Here are some photos of my shaft when I had it rebuilt.
welp, back here again. That rebuild didn't last long. So i bought a 2 piece shaft from Midwest Drive shaft last year. The oil change place wasn't greasing my rear CV and burned it up again. This shaft below is built with spicer joints and deleted one of the CV joints. Was working great. I was going to do a 1 piece but I hear people still experience vibration. I did the shim kit too.
339164
339165
339166
339167

339168

here's the old shaft design. So many grease points.
 
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