[tommyboys10]

I was at a local salvage yard this afternoon and stumbled across 3 carbon fiber driveshafts. One of the workers there checked and said they were from a 94 GMC but didn't know what model. The shafts were 63" center to center and 4" diameter (roughtly 13" circumference). I didn't ask for a price since I needed a longer driveshaft for my 94 S10 project. Just hated to see them laying there not being used......

i saw that on craiglist once posted as an carbon fiber drive shaft...naww bro its a dampning material that makes it look cf. I lost touch with this post and gave up. 96 and above ds in a xtra cab 2wd is around 67. Aluminum from a long bed s10 is around 62 -64 depending on whut person is selling it on ebay. It might work on the older s 10s with the 4.3 and older nv1500s. But not for the 3500 nv with 96 above motors with out adding material. I dont know where ppl are getting the ideas, but they need to stop or prove the savings on making one for the NEWER S10s.

 

[bvinton]

i saw that on craiglist once posted as an carbon fiber drive shaft...naww bro its a dampning material that makes it look cf. I lost touch with this post and gave up. 96 and above ds in a xtra cab 2wd is around 67. Aluminum from a long bed s10 is around 62 -64 depending on whut person is selling it on ebay. It might work on the older s 10s with the 4.3 and older nv1500s. But not for the 3500 nv with 96 above motors with out adding material. I dont know where ppl are getting the ideas, but they need to stop or prove the savings on making one for the NEWER S10s.

Whatever it was made from it was definitely lighter than the aluminum Aerostar driveshaft I was holding in my other hand. Don't think the length is right to replace my 2 piece in my ext cab S10 which is why I picked up an aluminum F-150.

 

[tommyboys10]

Whatever it was made from it was definitely lighter than the aluminum Aerostar driveshaft I was holding in my other hand. Don't think the length is right to replace my 2 piece in my ext cab S10 which is why I picked up an aluminum F-150.

do the Ford splines and rear connecter have to be removed/replaced to make work?

 

[bvinton]

do the Ford splines and rear connecter have to be removed/replaced to make work?

Yes. The Ford DS I picked up is 4" in diameter and uses 1350 u-joints. I've removed the Ford yokes and will be using 1330-1350 conversion (or combination) u-joints (such as the Spicer 50648x) to be able to use the 4L60E yoke and to connect the ds to the rearend.

On a side note I had an Aerostar DS shortened, balanced and new u-joints installed today and it cost me $128 total. The DS cost me $60 so I have a grand total of $188 in it. I expect to have slightly more than that tied up in the ds for my S10 when its all said and done but I still think it'll be less than $200.

 

[LeopardSeal]

Okay, this seems like the right place to get some history lessons about drive shaft swaps.
I have a '98 s-10 v6 extended cab 2WD. The drivetrain needs work, u-joints replaced and all that. I went to a shop that does nothing but supension, steering and driveshafts. The truck is stock, and I have no plans to alter the ride height or engine. I am, however, wanting to change the drive shaft from the double cardan triple u-joint to a simpler single shaft. Steel, 3 or so inches in diameter, with greasable u-joints. I want this truck to outlast me. I don't expect any several thousand miles roadtrips anytime soon, and I rarely put over 200 miles on it in a month. I will rent or borrow a bigger truck if I need to haul a half-ton of anything.
I went over all this with the guy who is going to do the work. Replacing the whole length of the driveshaft won't cost me any more than fixing the back end of the current drive shaft, and it seems like simpler beats out complex on something like this. He is comfortable making the change, but he'll do either.
So, is there anybody out there who has made this very same swap and can speak from first-hand experience on what the pros and cons are? Most of the posts I find here go back a while, and no one seems to update with glee or despair after having swapped and lived with it for awhile. Whatever I'm going to do is going to happen in the next couple of weeks. I'd like to not be second and triple-guessing along the way.
So, anyone..?

 

[zerogravity58]

ive replace the rear section of driveshaft in a few trucks with the cardine joints. They have worked just fine. The cardine jionts are junk.

 

[tommyboys10]

Okay, this seems like the right place to get some history lessons about drive shaft swaps.
I have a '98 s-10 v6 extended cab 2WD. The drivetrain needs work, u-joints replaced and all that. I went to a shop that does nothing but supension, steering and driveshafts. The truck is stock, and I have no plans to alter the ride height or engine. I am, however, wanting to change the drive shaft from the double cardan triple u-joint to a simpler single shaft. Steel, 3 or so inches in diameter, with greasable u-joints. I want this truck to outlast me. I don't expect any several thousand miles roadtrips anytime soon, and I rarely put over 200 miles on it in a month. I will rent or borrow a bigger truck if I need to haul a half-ton of anything.
I went over all this with the guy who is going to do the work. Replacing the whole length of the driveshaft won't cost me any more than fixing the back end of the current drive shaft, and it seems like simpler beats out complex on something like this. He is comfortable making the change, but he'll do either.
So, is there anybody out there who has made this very same swap and can speak from first-hand experience on what the pros and cons are? Most of the posts I find here go back a while, and no one seems to update with glee or despair after having swapped and lived with it for awhile. Whatever I'm going to do is going to happen in the next couple of weeks. I'd like to not be second and triple-guessing along the way.
So, anyone..?

glad im not the only one who sees this. Im looking for a straight answer my self with at least 96 and above trucks.

 

[zerogravity58]

glad im not the only one who sees this. Im looking for a straight answer my self with at least 96 and above trucks.

As i posted about. I ran a single shaft in my one s10 for thousands of miles and many many passes at the dragstrip without any problems. I also replace the rear half of extended cab driveshafts with the cardine joint. The front u joint is a normal joint its the middle and back that are the cardine joints. both ways i had no problems with just pick which way you want to go. If you do a single shaft and plan to lower or haul heavy loads with a extended cab truck you will have to notch the floor.

 

[LeopardSeal]

As i posted about. I ran a single shaft in my one s10 for thousands of miles and many many passes at the dragstrip without any problems. I also replace the rear half of extended cab driveshafts with the cardine joint. The front u joint is a normal joint its the middle and back that are the cardine joints. both ways i had no problems with just pick which way you want to go. If you do a single shaft and plan to lower or haul heavy loads with a extended cab truck you will have to notch the floor.

For your direct and prompt answer, I thank you.
You are now "Sir ZeroGravity58."
To me, anyway. :word:

 

[tommyboys10]

As i posted about. I ran a single shaft in my one s10 for thousands of miles and many many passes at the dragstrip without any problems. I also replace the rear half of extended cab driveshafts with the cardine joint. The front u joint is a normal joint its the middle and back that are the cardine joints. both ways i had no problems with just pick which way you want to go. If you do a single shaft and plan to lower or haul heavy loads with a extended cab truck you will have to notch the floor.

I hear what ur saying , so you installed a single peice aluminum driveshaft from a long bed pick up, on a 96 and above nv3500 or auto from a 96 and above extra cab truck? And all you have to do is shorten the drive shaft and notch if lowerd or raised? Sorry im getting back to this late, please dont say whats the difference between the 1st gen and second when it comes to the driveshafts...96 and above and yes to the above is what i need to hear... I did the measurments and last i remember its more xpensive to add than to cut and reweld. The ds from the long bed is around 62-64 inches in a long bed with the alluminum ds. 96 and above on a 2 wheel drive like mine is around 67 in an extra cab 2wd.

 

[tommyboys10]

Scroll thru the measurments in the pics... http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=130682579356&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=94828466063

 

[500HD-ZR2]

Can you use a rear drive shaft out of a regular 4wd in a zr2?

 

[LeopardSeal]

glad im not the only one who sees this. Im looking for a straight answer my self with at least 96 and above trucks.

I'm doing a follow-up here. I had the double driveshaft replaced with a new single 3 inch steel drive shaft. It's just right! At highway speeds (and, ahem, above) there is just smooth sailing. :tup:

The guy who did the work is so precise that there is no noise or vibration, at all, and the clearances are fine. I'm very pleased. By eliminating the need for dynamic balancing by getting it right the first time, we've also eliminated any risk (probably very remote risk) of a balancing weight falling off and having a real big problem.

This cost no more to have done than a repair of the rear shaft, and having fewer parts to wear out puts my mind at ease.

I don't know, but it would be my guess, that the vibrations needing correcting were the result of a too-small diameter driveshaft put on at the factory.

If anything bad happens, I'll quickly let you guys know.

 

[zerogravity58]

ive done both using a driveshaft out of a fullsize 2500 and having it shortened and also just replacing the backhalf of the s10 driveshaft with the carden joints. I can remmber measurements but the driveshaft i used in my extended cab came out of either a regular cab long bed 2500HD or a ext cab short bed 2500HD. Crew cab 2500's come with the same 3 piece drieshaft we have. I cant remember all the details anymore as i did this 7 years ago.

 

[Neeseius]

I've running a single piece aluminum shaft in my 03' ext cab sonoma. It's a 3inch drop in the back and 2inch in the front. I can complete the 1/4 mile but it vibrated like hell from 75mph - 85 mph then disappears completely until I slow back down. I have not shimmed the rear end at all or modified the tranny mount. The rear is a leaf drop, no block or spacer. Does anyone have any recommendations for what degree shims I should use or from what company?

 

[eshaw]

Since an 8.8 ford rearend will work, measure a Mustang driveshaft and see if it's about the right length. You'd have to change the front slip yoke but big deal.

 

[xceed]

If i put a 4" driveshaft on my ext cab...do i need to cut the floor to INSTAL it or just to PREVENT it to touch the floor when i hit some big bumps ?? ( i was thinking going to a shop for a custom driveshaft and cut the floor only when i will be home ) ...

 

[zerogravity58]

It will fit but if you hit any bigs bumps the driveshaft may hit the floor. How bad it hits the floor depends a lot on how much your truck is lowered.

 

[xceed]

My truck is 4-5 ( i think )
i got the 3-4 complete drop kit from suspensionsource.com
drop splindes, coils, shocks, drop leaf, drop block (2inches), shocks
My stock shitty 3 pieces driveshaft is almost straight, that is why i'm wondering about precutting the floor or not...

 

[s10rac3r]

So i just discovered i need a new driveshaft as well. I also have a 1992 chevy s10 extended cab. Looking for the best way to get a 1 piece in there. Ive been reading this thread and it looks like all id really need is a newer style truck shaft and take it somewhere to get cut down and balanced?