[More Displacement]

Know this thread is old but if anybody wants to know I took a couple of minutes to go on summitracing.com and they sell driveshaft yokes for 22 bucks a piece 50 bucks plus whatever the tube would cost. Then just go have it balanced. Probably get it done for under $200. They fit on a 3 inch tube so 2 inchs skinnier shaft should help with the floor and carrier crossmember support clearences. You can also buy a trans yoke for 60 bucks, new yoke and you know what type of you joint to use. Not sure about the axle yoke tho. Maybe one for the 8.5 axle but didnt find one for the 7.625 or 7.5. Think the axle yoke was around 70 bucks. Not bad, build a whole new driveshaft for around 350 bucks.

 

[hd_chevyman]

i got a custom carbon fiber driveshaft built for my s-10 from PST and it is really good at transfering the power to the rearend, im only losing 15 horses from the crank to the wheels

 

[AB03sonoma]

I was having problems with the POS two piece that came in my 2003 sonoma Ext cab. I transfered over to a single piece aluminum from Inland Empire Driveline. It was a very easy swap and just bolted into place. The only problem is that you need to make clearance on one "rib" in the box just above the center carrier bearing.

Other than that it works great and its way cheaper than continually repairing the old garbage two piece. It only weighs 20 lbs.

 

[Sonic]

Anyone try the conversion drive shaft from www.MrDriveshaft.com??

I'm in need of fixing this problem on my 03 extended cab s10 extreme

 

[What?]

I think I made a thread on mine as well. I'll start cleaning thread up a bit and reply your questions.

What I did was instead of getting one off the truck, I got one made(steel or aluminum). I went with steel, it's a lot lighter than stock for steel, and aluminum would be even more lighter.

Eliminate double cardan shaft, eliminate center carrier bearing and 1 piece, 2 joints.

3" lift spindle and soon to be 2" lift coil, 1.5" lift shackle + air shock which is aired up fully or halfway.

By far the best $230 I spent, no sluggish or hesitation, at least 15-20lb lighter. I could've used aluminum but this truck goes offroading and I didn't want to risk damaging the shaft if any. I'd definitely get aluminum for other trucks and do notch for cab clearance. I left carrier crossmember on as frame brace.

 

[Screech858]

Im currently running a CST kit up front and just stock in the rear...on 30" AT...will I have to cut out my floor as well?

 

[zerogravity58]

you will still probably have to clearance it. If not it will still hit on the floor.

 

[Screech858]

cool thanks

 

[Harry Canyon]

So how does the one piece react to hauling a heavy load?

My 2wd X-Cab will probably never be lowered, but I wouldn't mind eliminating the nightmare of a drive shaft underneath.

 

[zerogravity58]

i never hauled with mine with the single shaft. Over the years of having my truck before a sold it i ran the 5" aluminum shaft, 4" aluminum and a few 3" steel shafts. Pulling the 5" and shortening it was the cheapest (less then 150)and lightest driveshaft i had in it(less then 20 LBS). The 3" steel ones were more expensive( 400+) and heavier (30-40LBS) but were easier to make fit with clearancing the floor.

 

[Harry Canyon]

I'm not too opposed to massaging the floor. I just want something that won't bind up or fly out under load.

 

[tommyboys10]

I have an old school Toyota Supra Turbo that has a two piece drive shaft. I converted it to a one piece aluminum and its going on a year now. My two piece was falling apart and making vibration noises left and right. The aluminum one i have now,no issues at all. I had all kinds of shops telling me this and that and just found a person who just makes them. I dunno where most of these shops get at deterring ppl from doing this, but oh well, it does work. If all you have to do is clear the "floor" which I suppose the author is referring
to the middle brace, then its worth a shot.

 

[StirFrey]

some of you may know that i blew up my tranny, i need a longer drive shaft and plan on using one from a silverado.

i just dont know what to do about my tranny yoke, do you use your stock one or the silvy one or what?

 

[tommyboys10]

I know that Suburbans have the aluminum drive shaft from the 90s as well. Was told its around 70 inches before the yokes. The extra cab short bed second gen two peice, two wheel drive is around 67 inches before the yokes. My question is, that black dampning stuff on the aluminum one peice driveshafts that covers the middle completly, can that be removed with no issues and be cut?

 

[StirFrey]

it can be but you should get one without it, it can hold moisture in and corrode the aluminum.... get it without the black stuff if possible, i learned the hard way....

 

[ChevyDill199]

I had a aluminum driveshaft in mine...lauched and blew it out the back and shattered my trans bellhousing lol goin back to the good old steel ones!!

 

[StirFrey]

^that wasnt with a stock 2.2 was it?

 

[Bubba357]

what about a standard cab long bed? is it the same wheel base as the ext cab or not?

 

[SUPERTRIC]

Just got a aluminum drive shaft,
will be running a 406 with a pg trans,
shaft came off a ford van,
4'' x 72 -72 1/2'' long,
will need to remove some bottom floor brace
in the middle, don't know about that one
frame rail brace , i will fine out!!

 

[bvinton]

I was at a local salvage yard this afternoon and stumbled across 3 carbon fiber driveshafts. One of the workers there checked and said they were from a 94 GMC but didn't know what model. The shafts were 63" center to center and 4" diameter (roughtly 13" circumference). I didn't ask for a price since I needed a longer driveshaft for my 94 S10 project. Just hated to see them laying there not being used......