Ok so I pulled the trans out because it was making a lot of noise when in neutral and the clutch pedal released, and was really hard to get into 1st and 2nd gear. I googled it and it said my pilot bearing was probably bad. Upon removing I found the pilot bearing to be completely destroyed. Pieces ground up in the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate. The hydraulic slave cylinder was also in pretty bad shape. I replaced everything, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, pilot bearing, even the rear main seal with new. Put everything back together bleeded the hydraulic clutch put new trans oil and took to test drive. Seemed like it was good, but after a couple shifts it started to get harder and harder to get into 1st and 2nd, and when in neutral again. I thought great I blew up the pilot bearing? Anyway long story short I pulled the trans out again and the bearing looks fine?? Why is it not wanting to go into 1st and 2nd, and why is it making such a horrible noise when not in gear? Some advice would be greatly appreciated!
Advice please
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First, Welcome the the S10 Forum...
What year is it? What engine? Do you know which transmission it has? Did the transmission require ATF, Syncromesh or gear oil? Syncromesh is similar to 30 weight gear oil. It smells like gear oil, but thinner. I have seen guy's use 80-90w gear oil by mistake. That makes it hard to shift.
Could be air in the clutch hydraulic system. If the slave cylinder doesn't fully release the clutch, it will drag and make it hard to slow the syncronizers.
Did you have to bleed the hydraulics or was it a sealed replacement system?
I'm an automatic guy, but I do remember some of my R&R days with sticks.
What year is it? What engine? Do you know which transmission it has? Did the transmission require ATF, Syncromesh or gear oil? Syncromesh is similar to 30 weight gear oil. It smells like gear oil, but thinner. I have seen guy's use 80-90w gear oil by mistake. That makes it hard to shift.
Could be air in the clutch hydraulic system. If the slave cylinder doesn't fully release the clutch, it will drag and make it hard to slow the syncronizers.
Did you have to bleed the hydraulics or was it a sealed replacement system?
I'm an automatic guy, but I do remember some of my R&R days with sticks.
It’s a 1996 with the 4.3 and it’s the HM290 5 speed. I put the Syncromesh fluid back in. I only replaced the slave cylinder not the whole system, and I did bleed the system how it said in a google search ( pump the clutch peddle a few times and then hold loosen the line close and let off the peddle. )
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I have had to reverse bleed some Rangers & S10's. Basically it's push the fluid into the slave with a pump. it will push the air back to the master cylinder.
Maybe @oldeerslayer will chime in.
Just over 100,000 miles. How can you tell if the bearings in the trans are bad?
How would I know if I need to try this? How do you tell if air is in the system still?
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try pumping the clutch pedal and see if the engagement height changes. just like brakes the air compresses and the pedal height changes..
I’d grab the end of the input shaft and try moving it up and down, and side to side.
There should be a little bit of play, but if it were more than say 1/8” (I’m guessing here) I’d take it to a shop and see what they thought. Or just change the bearings. You’d need access to a hydraulic press I believe, I’ve only done one so I’m no expert.
Search for a service manual, and YouTube is your friend as well.
Edit: This may help, I haven’t watched it.
Ok thanks I’ll try.
Yah it didn’t seem like there was that much play. I’m not gonna even attempt to open that can of worms if those bearings are bad that’s way out of my comfort zone! Thanks for the help.
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Tranzman has a good point about reverse bleeding the hyrdaulics. It's hard to get air out at the bottom when air prefers to rise.
That does make total sense!
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