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Discussion Starter #1
I recharged my system and it lasted approximately 22 hours before going dead (apologies to the earth for my green house gas emissions). Everything in the system seems to be rolling smoothly save the leaks. I see oil on the side of the compressor and the leak tester indicates leaking from both schrader valves, the side of the compressor, etc.

I see that the HT6 compressor seems to have a high failure rate. The recommendation I've seen is to use the Sanden compressor -- I see one on Rock Auto (GPD 6512124). Anyone have help with some tips:
  1. People say I need to replace the condenser when I replace the compressor in case there's metal bits in the system from the failed compressor. However, the compressor still runs it would just appear there's a bad seal or something. Can I just flush the system and replace the hoses?
  2. People say I cannot flush the condenser if it's a "Parallel flow condenser" and I'm not sure whether I have one of those. I don't see mention of that in the service manual. Some of the replacement condensers say "parallel flow" but not all of them.
  3. The oil in the Sanden is different than the HT6 apparently (PAG 46? not PAG 150). I assume that means I have to get at least most of the PAG oil out of the system. Would a flush with ac solvent be sufficient to do that?
My present plan is:
  1. Replace the tubing on the top, accumulator, and the shrader valve on the high side.
  2. Flush out the evaporator and condenser to remove oil and bits (do a "back to front" flush in hopes of getting out the bits that are bad).
  3. Let all that dry.
  4. Replace the compressor and run a leak test of some sort once once all the work is done before I attempt to run the system.
And then if all that works, cross my fingers the compressor doesn't explode and admit that I'll be out $120 if there are still shards in the system.

Is this a reasonable plan? Have other people successfully replaced a leaky HT6 with a sanden without seeing a repeat failure in short order?
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Honestly, if you're going to replace your compressor due to failure, I'd replace EVERYTHING. Flushing the system may, or may not get all of the trash out of the system. Spend the money, do it right, then take it ion for a charge. Be sure to follow the Sanden instructions for installing the correct amount of oil.
I know it sounds like overkill, and you may get away with not replacing everything, but around this time of year there seems to be a lot of AC questions about failure. Why not do it right the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Honestly, if you're going to replace your compressor due to failure, I'd replace EVERYTHING. Flushing the system may, or may not get all of the trash out of the system. Spend the money, do it right, then take it ion for a charge. Be sure to follow the Sanden instructions for installing the correct amount of oil.
I know it sounds like overkill, and you may get away with not replacing everything, but around this time of year there seems to be a lot of AC questions about failure. Why not do it right the first time.
Yeah I think that might be the move. The parts are pretty cheap and it's probably worth doing the full upgrade so that this continues to work for a while. Thanks!
 

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Proper PAG oil. It will list it with the compressor paperwork, along with how to measure.


And some adult beverages...if you're of age. If not....Capri Sun... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Proper PAG oil. It will list it with the compressor paperwork, along with how to measure.


And some adult beverages...if you're of age. If not....Capri Sun... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Haha Capri Sun has too much sugar. Best to hit the liver with straight alcohol ;)

The Sanden comes pre oiled I think but I will double check capacity etc.

Since my oil cooler lines are leaking and the coolant in the tank is the wrong color it probably makes sense to block out a weekend and kill seven birds with one stone. I think the previous owner got fed up with the DEX Cool - intake manifold gasket incompatibility. May as well pick up a $1000 Saturn SL2 to carry me about while Clifford is apart.

And while I’m in there I may as well hit the power steering gear box and rag joint.

This vehicle is soon to be 100% RockAuto and eBay parts. Good thing the GM parts are cheap :) I am impressed the original clutch is holding at 253k miles though. Dainty clutch driving is key at this point.
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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The compressor should filled with oil. You need to pour it into a graduated container. There is a certain amount that remains behind since it coats the parts. You'll need to see how much your system requires, then add the correct amount.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright got the lines out -- little bit of crud in the old oil out of the accumulator so probably good that I got the full kit. The one bummer is that the Sanden compressor is coming into contact with the radiator metal hose with the thermostat in it. Have other people found a solution? I was thinking of either trying to mount it up a bit with washers or angle grinding the post back 1/4 inch or so. Doesn't look like that post is terribly integral to the machine?

340620
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Did you install the washers that came with it? They go between the compressor and the m mounting bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you install the washers that came with it? They go between the compressor and the m mounting bracket.
I'm a dingus. I added the washers -- but there's still a slight gap...wondering if the radiator hose is slightly askew? It's bolted on pretty good...

340621
 

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You could probably take a file to that nub and add a little clearance. It won't take much since everything is stationary.
 
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