[Alan D Moore]

So I have been having an issue with my ABS light and the inspect brake light. The code description was a bad module solenoid. The lights would come on and turn off at random but most of the time they were on. I was tempted to send the ABS unit to Modulemaster.com but as I read on, they use “trained technicians” meaning anyone can do it (I have a Kelsey Hayes 325 module which they say is repairable). So I took the module off and popped off the lid, which was glued on, All the solenoids tested good but I found 5 bad/cracked solder spots. 4 were where the power comes into the unit and the other one was next to the J on that barcode sticker. I soldered them all, put the lid back on with some gasket glue stuff I had, installed the unit. It took a little over an hour for this fix. I had all my codes cleared and a few days later I still have no warning lights on. I am fairly confident that this fixed the issue. I had trouble getting pictures of the cracks but I think you should be able to see them.

 

[greg409]

Thanx, I love that kind of attitude - "it's only a machine"

luck,greg

 

[blacksonoma]

Have u hooked up a scan tool before fixing it to fig out which codes can be linked to this issue.mine is throwing a low voltage code maybe ill try popping the cover off and carefully inspecting the connections.my light has been on and off(mostly on)for 2yrs

 

[Alan D Moore]

Have u hooked up a scan tool before fixing it to fig out which codes can be linked to this issue.mine is throwing a low voltage code maybe ill try popping the cover off and carefully inspecting the connections.my light has been on and off(mostly on)for 2yrs

I had it scanned but don't remember the code but I do remember the code description was a "bad module solenoid" and that is all I had to work with. I think the code descriptions vary in different brand scan tools. I do know that for my 03 Sonoma some of the codes have changed and older scanners descriptions will be different than some of the later versions especially in the local auto stores where they don't/can't update their scanner tools. A low voltage code for 2yrs you would think you would notice that in other devices too. My solder cracks were in all 4 spots where the power connects to the board so that sounds close to a voltage problem. Maybe? Popping off the lid won't hurt anything if you don't jab the insides. I'd say if you feel talented enough then do it. But definitely let us know what you find. This topic seems to be filled with peoples guesses and no real DIY solutions. The cracks are very easy to spot b/c the ones without cracks are super smooth.

 

[bumperjack713]

Mine is on and need it off so I can get it on the road might be worth a shot for me to try.lol thanks for the info.

 

[Alan D Moore]

It has been exactly one month and I am now confirming that this did fix my abs light issue.

I would like to add for those willing to attempt this, modulemaster shows you how to remove the module to work on it and I would strongly suggest and highly recommend you use flux to solder. Flux is an acid that is used mostly to dissolve oxidation for a good solder. I used some common flux core solder but I hear solder with a little silver in it may be less brittle.

 

[tytotheler92]

GMs got an issue with solder joints in this era. From the wiper pulse boards, to the caps in some of their radios and the electronic climate control in some of the higher end vehicles. Its just all over the board... (No pun intended there.)

This is real helpful though. Great job.

 

[BTE]

That is awesome, thanks for investigating this problem! I have this exact issue, except on a '01. I will have to try this out.
I also have an old module that failed because it shorted out the ABS motor and it would run constantly. If this has a similar fix, that would be great, but I assume its a short instead of an open circuit.

 

[code_red63366]

OK, I tried this fix last night and so far it has changed one thing, that being the ABS light now stays on non stop as before it flickered off and on, so im gonna guess that it did have a bad solder or 2. It was hard to tell because the solder joints were so small that I had to use the magnifying app on my phone to see them. With this said, maybe my pump is bad? I checked online and every part for the abs is expensive,not sure which way im gonna go now? Im posting pics on my ABS post in the 2.2 section.

 

[code_red63366]

Oh and getting that cover off that was sealed/glued on was a real son of a b%$#@

 

[Alan D Moore]

Correction from the original post: My 4 cracked spots were where the power goes to the motor not the power coming into the module and the spot next the the J goes to the relay.

Here is some additional information that some may find helpful. I would say this fix is a little advanced for most people. I will be keeping this thread updated as I find more useful information on the ABS codes.

For the removal of the Module their are 3 plugs. Two are fairly simple but one has a lock on it. To remove this plug with the lock, I used a screw driver.

After you get the lock down you push the lever in and the plug should come off with little effort.

Then you will take out the 4 star screws on top of the module and remove it from the hydraulic valve block. I have drove my truck without the module on the truck and it stops with no problem. The modulemaster site also says you can drive without the module installed. Here is a pic of the hydraulic valve block without the module on it.

To remove the metal cover I wedged a screw driver in between the two parts and pried as I cut the sealant. These are the points I pried from. (be careful)

Now when you do solder any cracks I would suggest that you use an electrical solder with a high melting point. common solder 60% tin 40% led has a melting point of around 374 degrees but 96% tin 4% silver has a melting point of 430 degrees. Higher melting point will hopefully preventing cracks in the future.

 

[Alan D Moore]

So I have been looking into this to make this fix more broad for other codes.

I have disassembled the unit and found the relay which I would assume that it can get stuck open which is why the pump stays on for some of you guys.

Please anyone with some professional input please add to this. I approve any positive criticism and would like to know all their is to know.

Here is a thread where I took apart the module and tested the relay, it has a ton of pics.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/...ke-control-module-motor-relay-circuit-465511/

 

[code_red63366]

Alan,,, this is hard, I mean real hard to get this board of its housing... I have been at it for hours now and havent had much success. Bought a new soldering iron, desoldering braid, vacum desoldering bulb and I have my original 100 w soldering gun (which I was just informed today that 40 and up is to hot for the board and can cause damage). Im guessing that this is a very lenghty process (hours among hours?) Also to test for positive voltage from the coil using a 9 volt battery , I have not been successfull at cause I havent a clue how to hook it up yet alone what im looking for when it is hooked up? I know its suppose to have more than 6.3 volts . Maybe a couple photos of you doing this would be sweet if its not asking to much?

 

[code_red63366]

OK. I have good news and bad news,,1st the good news, I have the board seperated from the cover,,, bad news , the last 2 holes I was working on trying to pry the board off, well it ruined the board. It pulled the silver rings completely out of it.. Im gonna guess for sure from the way it looks that the board is done. I took some pics incase you wanted to see for yourself

 

[Alan D Moore]

I saw the pictures and I would hope you could still manage to put a jumper in there to fix the two breaks. It only took me 45 minutes to desolder and get the board off but only 15 minutes to put it all back together. I used a 40watt iron but kept a close eye on the solder. I didn't have the soldering iron touching any part of the board for more than 2 seconds knowing that many things on a circuit board are temperature sensitive. My iron almost instantly liquified the solder. I use to race electric RC cars in 7th & 8th grade and I always hated lower wattage soldering irons. They are just not fast enough for me and I would suspect that a low wattage iron requires longer time touching the solder which would allow more time for the heat to transfer to other things that you may not want to get hot (just my thoughts/experience). That's why I enjoy the 40watt. I should have taken a video when I disassembled it.

For testing that relay: When testing the engaged side you would just hook the 9 volt battery up to the coil and that will make the "com" connect to the "voltage to coil side" I have labeled in the pic. If you don't have a multimeter to check for continuity you can use a test light and another battery wired in series. The picture would look the same as the one I posted except a battery would be connected to the coil and that black alligator clip would be on the "voltage to coil" side and the display on the multimeter would show the same .2 ohms.

 

[code_red63366]

I saw the pictures and I would hope you could still manage to put a jumper in there to fix the two breaks. It only took me 45 minutes to desolder and get the board off but only 15 minutes to put it all back together. I used a 40watt iron but kept a close eye on the solder. I didn't have the soldering iron touching any part of the board for more than 2 seconds knowing that many things on a circuit board are temperature sensitive. My iron almost instantly liquified the solder. I use to race electric RC cars in 7th & 8th grade and I always hated lower wattage soldering irons. They are just not fast enough for me and I would suspect that a low wattage iron requires longer time touching the solder which would allow more time for the heat to transfer to other things that you may not want to get hot (just my thoughts/experience). That's why I enjoy the 40watt. I should have taken a video when I disassembled it.

For testing that relay: When testing the engaged side you would just hook the 9 volt battery up to the coil and that will make the "com" connect to the "voltage to coil side" I have labeled in the pic. If you don't have a multimeter to check for continuity you can use a test light and another battery wired in series. The picture would look the same as the one I posted except a battery would be connected to the coil and that black alligator clip would be on the "voltage to coil" side and the display on the multimeter would show the same .2 ohms.

Ok got it now,, Im gonna test that relay just to see if it is good for fun... thanks.

 

[Erichhart]

I'm going to try this tomorrow I hope this fixes my problem.


The last thing I was gonna do was pick this up in the junk yard for $20.00

 

[Don64]

Thanks for sharing this info , my dash looks like a christamas tree too ! Where is the module located ? under the hood or down under the dash ? I also have to fix my CHECK ENGINE light too apparently its a pump motor for the anti pollution that needs to be replaced ...
Don

So I have been having an issue with my ABS light and the inspect brake light. The code description was a bad module solenoid. The lights would come on and turn off at random but most of the time they were on. I was tempted to send the ABS unit to Modulemaster.com but as I read on, they use “trained technicians� meaning anyone can do it (I have a Kelsey Hayes 325 module which they say is repairable). So I took the module off and popped off the lid, which was glued on, All the solenoids tested good but I found 5 bad/cracked solder spots. 4 were where the power comes into the unit and the other one was next to the J on that barcode sticker. I soldered them all, put the lid back on with some gasket glue stuff I had, installed the unit. It took a little over an hour for this fix. I had all my codes cleared and a few days later I still have no warning lights on. I am fairly confident that this fixed the issue. I had trouble getting pictures of the cracks but I think you should be able to see them.

 

[code_red63366]

Don 64,,,, It is located under the hood on the drivers side. You will have to make sure it is the rebuildable type as some s10's have the module that is non rebuildable. Best and easy way to tell is by going off the pictures above.. It should have a silver case cover on top and not a black case cover.

 

[RDT84721]

I had the same thing, the module has bad connections, where the pins or posts for the connectors go through the board. Luckily I'm a retired Electronic Tech and doing the resoldering was no big deal for me. If you can or have a friend who can you can save some real bucks. Frome where you are should take no more than 30 min. When you put it back together make sure you seal it very well.