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B4U Task Force Admin
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This isn't a verbal forum, it's not a visual forum other than the fact we like pics. They do help with diagnosing, but the written word rules. Being an English major isn't required, but an elementary grasp of the written word is a must.
Ever since people moved towards mobile devices, the lazy factor showed up. Lack of grammar and punctuation will continue to draw attention.

BTW...curb your language also.

Here's a link to the Forum Rules.

 
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Guy is asking for help and all you people do is criticize his writing?
As far as your problem, is your ignition timing correct? Is the knock sensor working? Plug gap correct? I have a 96 that michigan ate pretty good but still runs good. I didn’t start it for about 5 years and when I did, it ran like **, knocking like * until I ran it up to 2k rpm for a couple minutes. Ran fine after that. That was about 3 years ago (should probably try to start it up again soon).
Me and other people mentioned about how his post is an eye sore to read. Instead of him fixing his post he went on to on about how Chevy is so bad.

He could of got help from others if he fixed his post. Why don't you read post #2 it is spot on.
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Ok...here's the deal. I've told him what needs to be done. Let's leave it alone and hope for the best...
Thanks.
 

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2003 GMC Sonoma SLS extended cab 4.3L auto 4x4
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69 Posts
Guy is asking for help and all you people do is criticize his writing?
As far as your problem, is your ignition timing correct? Is the knock sensor working? Plug gap correct? I have a 96 that michigan ate pretty good but still runs good. I didn’t start it for about 5 years and when I did, it ran like **, knocking like * until I ran it up to 2k rpm for a couple minutes. Ran fine after that. That was about 3 years ago (should probably try to start it up again soon).
The original posting deserved the critiques. Edit update: I posted this before I saw the previous replies, so I agree - enough said.
 

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I feel for the for op. Took me like 8 months to get my 2001 ZR2 running. I’d fix one issue and another would pop up. I almost gave up several times and everyone around me said cut your losses and get rid of it. But I’ve never had a vehicle beat me, and I couldn’t let and old school Chevy beat me. I finally got it up and running, and of course, still needs a ton of work. I’m still hanging in there though.
And as for going to Dodge, the cracked dash is a REAL issue! The freaking VIN plates are riveted to the dash so when it falls to pieces, there goes your VIN plate. I had a 98 Ram 1500 that this happened too.
 

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So my saga with my 2000 chevy v6 4.3 2wd automatic started about 5 months ago. My fuel pressure regulator in my spider injector went out. Needless to say when i kept trying to start my truck and it wouldnt fire gas flooded my engine causing a hydro lock cracking the cylider wall on cylinder 6. How ifound out was i fixed the pressure regulator and got it started and there was a bad knock and the oil after checking looked like cream of mushroom soup.😳 Welli thought after researching a head gasket job would do the trick. In cleaning for preparation of the head gasket installation i noticed whst i thought at first was a scratch in the cylider wall. I took a pic with my phone and zoomed in and sure enough a crack. Welli weighed my options of a crate engine from jasper since i dont live but 35 mins awayfrom the plant. Well i couldnt afford 2800 dollars for just a rebuilt block pretty much. For that price are you going to put my top end in it and install it? Well then i checked all the salvage yards around me for an engine. And lets say for not much less than a jasper i coulfve gotten a few engines with over 200 miles on them that loojed like theyve been through a fire about 10 times. Uh! Uh! Then i thought well i can get a machine shop to sleeve it. Yay! Found one thatd do it for 185 dollars in56 weeks. 😲😲 I need4d my truck before then. So i was going to sleeve it myself. After reading all tbe reviews of sleeving it seemed more like a temporary band aid. Nope! Dont want that! I have already invested in new parts close to 1000 dollars in new starters battery pressure regulators etc just finding out about the hydro lock that ruined my block. Ih lets not forget the engine wiring harnessi thought was another problem for it not starting causing trouble codes of circuit issues with crank shaft sensor and so on. After hacking all the pigtails i found ound out it was the plugs to the computer. You cant buy one of those new you can have a company make you one from 1000 on up to3000 depending on if you want stock or a racing eldebrock or holly harness. So junk yard after junk yard call after call noone had a harness that would run my vin number model engine. Nowhere from here in ky to california. I ran into zhe same problem with finding another block. Noone here wanted to sell a block they wanted to sell me a burned up high mileage engine. Nope the engine that just got hydro locked was just put in there 3 yrs ago was something like those engines but with less miles. Any ways i found a block in new jersey with 50 thousand miles for 500 dollars. Great! Ill take it! Should be here in 4 business days. A month and a half later my block arrives. Looks great! Everything is clean and tight like new. Bearings in the crank shaft good and tight. So i began my engine build. Reworked my heads. The correct way with grinding compound and new seals. Put a new timing chain and gear on it just because i wanted to to not have to worry about the very little play in the chain. I painted the block and the heads and man that engine ciuld go in a museum i mean its just awesome. I mean i had the time i git tbe stimulous check and was able to use one if my dads vehicles to keep up my lawncare business i started a year ago. Got the engine in with new motor mounts. Went to start it. Nothing! No crank no start. Ok its the anti theft security issue. Nope the light flashes when you open the door and goes off when you shut the door and turn the key. So new ignition switch and nope! New ignition control module and coil nope! It was the harness. So again not having 1000 to spend i found out on my own. No book nor forum nor mechanic Nor the dealer could tell me that even though its a 2002 0r 2003 or 2001 blazer or olds brevada or gmc s15 whatever if you have an automatic 2wd with a cpfi the harness will work if you cut the two wire that are extra on the oil pressure sensor and mive a few pins around in tbe fuse block in the fuse box under The hood. I found that out when i git pissed and flung a harness and by chance it landed perfectly by my original one fuse block to fuse block. Hey wait those are different. But if i mive these wires here just these three they are the same. I have a fuel pump relay that is operated by the black computer plug not connected to the wire harness that runs across the engine. Those wires were from when they changed safety features to if the oil pressure gets so low it cuts the fuel pump. So i made my own harnes all of it all the way to the transmission park nuetral switch that i replaced a few times thinking thats why it wouldnt start to the main internal harness of the transmission i replaced because the plug was full of transmission fluid causing me to think would cause connection issues. No part store told me you could pop the center of female end out and and replace that one with a new one with new a new seal. Nooooo you gotta replace the whole internal harness. If you do that new filter and 5 other solenoids Should he replaced. So my wire harness is pretty professional. I can make you one for 850. Just like the factory ones from mexico thats made there for 25 dollars but sold here for 1000. Anyways i got my truck started. Giod oil pressure transmission shifting into gear great. But tbe engine is rocking back and forth biut to jump out and slam dunk a basket ball in your face abd i hear alot if rattling thats coming from the area of the water pump and the a/c the noie from the bottom is the metal fuel lines clacking together and the exaust hitting the cross member under the cat converter. I replaced the harmonic balancer and am getting a new clutch for the fan its bad too. But with the fan off and running the engine for just a few mins the noise was still there. The new balancer helped a little bit but not much. I took a pipe and listened to the valve covers it was smooth. I listened to the water pump it was smooth i listened to the a/c i got alot of noise from it. But when you just stand over the engine its screeching and sounding like a rod if an engin had one in the top end by or near the water pump or a/c. So now im stuck with what t is that sound and why us my truck playin in the nba about to dunk on someone? Any ideas out there in 4.3 land?
You need to Keep It Simple Silly, its not a new problem, just a new problem for you...the Forum can assist but be concise.
 
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