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So my saga with my 2000 chevy v6 4.3 2wd automatic started about 5 months ago. My fuel pressure regulator in my spider injector went out. Needless to say when i kept trying to start my truck and it wouldnt fire gas flooded my engine causing a hydro lock cracking the cylider wall on cylinder 6. How ifound out was i fixed the pressure regulator and got it started and there was a bad knock and the oil after checking looked like cream of mushroom soup.馃槼 Welli thought after researching a head gasket job would do the trick. In cleaning for preparation of the head gasket installation i noticed whst i thought at first was a scratch in the cylider wall. I took a pic with my phone and zoomed in and sure enough a crack. Welli weighed my options of a crate engine from jasper since i dont live but 35 mins awayfrom the plant. Well i couldnt afford 2800 dollars for just a rebuilt block pretty much. For that price are you going to put my top end in it and install it? Well then i checked all the salvage yards around me for an engine. And lets say for not much less than a jasper i coulfve gotten a few engines with over 200 miles on them that loojed like theyve been through a fire about 10 times. Uh! Uh! Then i thought well i can get a machine shop to sleeve it. Yay! Found one thatd do it for 185 dollars in56 weeks. 馃槻馃槻 I need4d my truck before then. So i was going to sleeve it myself. After reading all tbe reviews of sleeving it seemed more like a temporary band aid. Nope! Dont want that! I have already invested in new parts close to 1000 dollars in new starters battery pressure regulators etc just finding out about the hydro lock that ruined my block. Ih lets not forget the engine wiring harnessi thought was another problem for it not starting causing trouble codes of circuit issues with crank shaft sensor and so on. After hacking all the pigtails i found ound out it was the plugs to the computer. You cant buy one of those new you can have a company make you one from 1000 on up to3000 depending on if you want stock or a racing eldebrock or holly harness. So junk yard after junk yard call after call noone had a harness that would run my vin number model engine. Nowhere from here in ky to california. I ran into zhe same problem with finding another block. Noone here wanted to sell a block they wanted to sell me a burned up high mileage engine. Nope the engine that just got hydro locked was just put in there 3 yrs ago was something like those engines but with less miles. Any ways i found a block in new jersey with 50 thousand miles for 500 dollars. Great! Ill take it! Should be here in 4 business days. A month and a half later my block arrives. Looks great! Everything is clean and tight like new. Bearings in the crank shaft good and tight. So i began my engine build. Reworked my heads. The correct way with grinding compound and new seals. Put a new timing chain and gear on it just because i wanted to to not have to worry about the very little play in the chain. I painted the block and the heads and man that engine ciuld go in a museum i mean its just awesome. I mean i had the time i git tbe stimulous check and was able to use one if my dads vehicles to keep up my lawncare business i started a year ago. Got the engine in with new motor mounts. Went to start it. Nothing! No crank no start. Ok its the anti theft security issue. Nope the light flashes when you open the door and goes off when you shut the door and turn the key. So new ignition switch and nope! New ignition control module and coil nope! It was the harness. So again not having 1000 to spend i found out on my own. No book nor forum nor mechanic Nor the dealer could tell me that even though its a 2002 0r 2003 or 2001 blazer or olds brevada or gmc s15 whatever if you have an automatic 2wd with a cpfi the harness will work if you cut the two wire that are extra on the oil pressure sensor and mive a few pins around in tbe fuse block in the fuse box under The hood. I found that out when i git pissed and flung a harness and by chance it landed perfectly by my original one fuse block to fuse block. Hey wait those are different. But if i mive these wires here just these three they are the same. I have a fuel pump relay that is operated by the black computer plug not connected to the wire harness that runs across the engine. Those wires were from when they changed safety features to if the oil pressure gets so low it cuts the fuel pump. So i made my own harnes all of it all the way to the transmission park nuetral switch that i replaced a few times thinking thats why it wouldnt start to the main internal harness of the transmission i replaced because the plug was full of transmission fluid causing me to think would cause connection issues. No part store told me you could pop the center of female end out and and replace that one with a new one with new a new seal. Nooooo you gotta replace the whole internal harness. If you do that new filter and 5 other solenoids Should he replaced. So my wire harness is pretty professional. I can make you one for 850. Just like the factory ones from mexico thats made there for 25 dollars but sold here for 1000. Anyways i got my truck started. Giod oil pressure transmission shifting into gear great. But tbe engine is rocking back and forth biut to jump out and slam dunk a basket ball in your face abd i hear alot if rattling thats coming from the area of the water pump and the a/c the noie from the bottom is the metal fuel lines clacking together and the exaust hitting the cross member under the cat converter. I replaced the harmonic balancer and am getting a new clutch for the fan its bad too. But with the fan off and running the engine for just a few mins the noise was still there. The new balancer helped a little bit but not much. I took a pipe and listened to the valve covers it was smooth. I listened to the water pump it was smooth i listened to the a/c i got alot of noise from it. But when you just stand over the engine its screeching and sounding like a rod if an engin had one in the top end by or near the water pump or a/c. So now im stuck with what t is that sound and why us my truck playin in the nba about to dunk on someone? Any ideas out there in 4.3 land?
 

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A couple of things You need to proofread your Talk To Text and fix all of the errors. This was painful to read. You also need to break it up into paragraphs. When something is hard to read and is one giant paragraph, people tend to look at it and just move on.

There are a lot of knowledgeable people here that could have saved you a lot of grief, time, and money.
 

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2003 GMC Sonoma SLS extended cab 4.3L auto 4x4
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Oh my eyes! They have been exposed to a a bad case of grammatical diarrhea. It would probably be best that I head to the nearest clinic for treatment, and hope the damage is only temporary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A couple of things You need to proofread your Talk To Text and fix all of the errors. This was painful to read. You also need to break it up into paragraphs. When something is hard to read and is one giant paragraph, people tend to look at it and just move on.

There are a lot of knowledgeable people here that could have saved you a lot of grief, time, and money.
Well i thought with the amount i had to type in such little time from a phone was pretty good seeing as i spent all that time and money to still have a rattling issue from the engine that may be the balancer shaft. I will not put aby more time and effort into that gm nightmare. Ive had nothing but problems with every gm ive ever owned all needing engines installed because of thier poor designs and crappy mechanical issues. So the answer to my problem is the scrap yard and buying a dodge. Thank you have a nice day. Goodluck waisting time and money on your generic made cars.
 

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2003 GMC Sonoma SLS extended cab 4.3L auto 4x4
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Well i thought with the amount i had to type in such little time from a phone was pretty good seeing as i spent all that time and money to still have a rattling issue from the engine that may be the balancer shaft. I will not put aby more time and effort into that gm nightmare. Ive had nothing but problems with every gm ive ever owned all needing engines installed because of thier poor designs and crappy mechanical issues. So the answer to my problem is the scrap yard and buying a dodge. Thank you have a nice day. Goodluck waisting time and money on your generic made cars.
OK, Bye.
 

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Well i thought with the amount i had to type in such little time from a phone was pretty good seeing as i spent all that time and money to still have a rattling issue from the engine that may be the balancer shaft. I will not put aby more time and effort into that gm nightmare. Ive had nothing but problems with every gm ive ever owned all needing engines installed because of thier poor designs and crappy mechanical issues. So the answer to my problem is the scrap yard and buying a dodge. Thank you have a nice day. Goodluck waisting time and money on your generic made cars.
I am a Dodge guy and I hate to break it to you bud but Dodge has more issues compared to GM vehicles.

The 5.7 Hemi has issues with lifters failing which destroy the cam and by the time you notice it, it's too late. Why does this happen? because the engineers at Dodge didn't take into account the fact that at idle it doesn't get proper lubrication with how they set it up.

The overdrive units on Dodge transmissions are known to fail so unless you are going old school with like a 727 think again.

Shall I go on about the ECU failures, electrical issues, and various other issues? And don't get me started about all of the issues that came around since FCA.

I love Dodge vehicles and I will buy another but don't sit here and act like they are better.
 

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So my saga with my 2000 chevy v6 4.3 ................. Any ideas out there in 4.3 land?
i find it funny when people whine about a 21 year old vehicle like its supposed to be a perfect machine. These trucks were designed to be used and thrown away. They are a cheap mini truck that was never designed to last 20,30+ years. The chassis is what, a 40+ year old design.
 

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i find it funny when people whine about a 21 year old vehicle like its supposed to be a perfect machine. These trucks were designed to be used and thrown away. They are a cheap mini truck that was never designed to last 20,30+ years. The chassis is what, a 40+ year old design.
Never designed to last 20-30+ years but they do. But the reality is you are not going to find any vehicle that old that doesn't need some work.

The 4.3 is a tough engine and the 4L60E can last a long time if maintained.

Dodge's of this era had issues with over drive units, ecu failures, intake leaks, electrical issues, shattered dashes, oil sludge leading to low oil pressure and engine failure more specifically in the 4.7 this is why you see a lot of Dodge trucks of this era with low oil pressure, rocker arm failures.

The newer ones have the issues in the 5.7 hemi I mentioned in a previous post.

But hey if he wants to drop the S10 and go for a Dodge well he can go for it but he will have a rude awakening when he finds out Dodge has problems too.
 

Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Never designed to last 20-30+ years but they do. But the reality is you are not going to find any vehicle that old that doesn't need some work.

The 4.3 is a tough engine and the 4L60E can last a long time if maintained.

Dodge's of this era had issues with over drive units, ecu failures, intake leaks, electrical issues, shattered dashes, oil sludge leading to low oil pressure and engine failure more specifically in the 4.7 this is why you see a lot of Dodge trucks of this era with low oil pressure, rocker arm failures.

The newer ones have the issues in the 5.7 hemi I mentioned in a previous post.

But hey if he wants to drop the S10 and go for a Dodge well he can go for it but he will have a rude awakening when he finds out Dodge has problems too.

That shiz with the dashboards turning to dust is just unbelievable. The problem appears to be with UV light destroying them. My dad had a 96 cab and chassis that was always parked indoors and used sparingly to boot. I sold it last year for him, and other than the broken glove box which is almost broken, the dash was perfect. My friend Len had like a 95 or so....guess he still does, and that bastard breaks with your fingers. He finally just ripped all the pieces out. That is inexcusable from a point of quality if you ask me. Not like plastic dashes were a new thing in 1993 or whenever those came out. Dad's truck was solid with the Cummins diesel. The front end on that truck sagged though. It couldn't support the weight due to using basically half ton design. It ate tires and wouldn't hold an alignment. So there's something else to mention.
 

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That shiz with the dashboards turning to dust is just unbelievable. The problem appears to be with UV light destroying them. My dad had a 96 cab and chassis that was always parked indoors and used sparingly to boot. I sold it last year for him, and other than the broken glove box which is almost broken, the dash was perfect. My friend Len had like a 95 or so....guess he still does, and that bastard breaks with your fingers. He finally just ripped all the pieces out. That is inexcusable from a point of quality if you ask me. Not like plastic dashes were a new thing in 1993 or whenever those came out. Dad's truck was solid with the Cummins diesel. The front end on that truck sagged though. It couldn't support the weight due to using basically half ton design. It ate tires and wouldn't hold an alignment. So there's something else to mention.
Yea the Chevy Cavaliers had the issue as well it was to cut costs. I would expect it more in an econobox like a Cavalier compared to a truck that is touted to be strong, reliable, etc. Those Cavaliers were very reliable though I see them all the time with over 300,000 miles still going strong.

If you have one that isn't weakened and cracked your only option is to buy a dash cover to protect it otherwise it will happen. If it is cracked buy a coverlay but yea it is not excusable especially in a truck which they know workers throw things on dashes and they know the trucks are going to be beaten up to begin with.

I don't know what the S10 dashes are made of but its like a plastic with some give to it they don't tend to crack or bust into pieces of then the defrost vent which is $20 replacement.
 

Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Yea the Chevy Cavaliers had the issue as well it was to cut costs. I would expect it more in an econobox like a Cavalier compared to a truck that is touted to be strong, reliable, etc. Those Cavaliers were very reliable though I see them all the time with over 300,000 miles still going strong.

If you have one that isn't weakened and cracked your only option is to buy a dash cover to protect it otherwise it will happen. If it is cracked buy a coverlay but yea it is not excusable especially in a truck which they know workers throw things on dashes and they know the trucks are going to be beaten up to begin with.

I don't know what the S10 dashes are made of but its like a plastic with some give to it they don't tend to crack or bust into pieces of then the defrost vent which is $20 replacement.
Yep, that defrost vent will bust on the s10.

We had several Cavaliers over the years. Good reliable car.
 

94 4x4,01 Blazer
2001 Blazer 4dr 4wd LT
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hmm- i don't really think it is a "MAKE" issue guys, more like everyone went cheap where they could get away with it. I have a '74 Dodge Dart and a '73 Nova sitting in the back 40 that still both have most everything there while there is a late '80 Escort that looks like someone shelled the poor think with Artillery til they ran out of ammo.PS- the Escort was a freebie- it "didn't run"- amazing what fresh gas will do.
 
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So my saga with my 2000 chevy v6 4.3 2wd automatic started about 5 months ago. My fuel pressure regulator in my spider injector went out. Needless to say when i kept trying to start my truck and it wouldnt fire gas flooded my engine causing a hydro lock cracking the cylider wall on cylinder 6. How ifound out was i fixed the pressure regulator and got it started and there was a bad knock and the oil after checking looked like cream of mushroom soup.馃槼 Welli thought after researching a head gasket job would do the trick. In cleaning for preparation of the head gasket installation i noticed whst i thought at first was a scratch in the cylider wall. I took a pic with my phone and zoomed in and sure enough a crack. Welli weighed my options of a crate engine from jasper since i dont live but 35 mins awayfrom the plant. Well i couldnt afford 2800 dollars for just a rebuilt block pretty much. For that price are you going to put my top end in it and install it? Well then i checked all the salvage yards around me for an engine. And lets say for not much less than a jasper i coulfve gotten a few engines with over 200 miles on them that loojed like theyve been through a fire about 10 times. Uh! Uh! Then i thought well i can get a machine shop to sleeve it. Yay! Found one thatd do it for 185 dollars in56 weeks. 馃槻馃槻 I need4d my truck before then. So i was going to sleeve it myself. After reading all tbe reviews of sleeving it seemed more like a temporary band aid. Nope! Dont want that! I have already invested in new parts close to 1000 dollars in new starters battery pressure regulators etc just finding out about the hydro lock that ruined my block. Ih lets not forget the engine wiring harnessi thought was another problem for it not starting causing trouble codes of circuit issues with crank shaft sensor and so on. After hacking all the pigtails i found ound out it was the plugs to the computer. You cant buy one of those new you can have a company make you one from 1000 on up to3000 depending on if you want stock or a racing eldebrock or holly harness. So junk yard after junk yard call after call noone had a harness that would run my vin number model engine. Nowhere from here in ky to california. I ran into zhe same problem with finding another block. Noone here wanted to sell a block they wanted to sell me a burned up high mileage engine. Nope the engine that just got hydro locked was just put in there 3 yrs ago was something like those engines but with less miles. Any ways i found a block in new jersey with 50 thousand miles for 500 dollars. Great! Ill take it! Should be here in 4 business days. A month and a half later my block arrives. Looks great! Everything is clean and tight like new. Bearings in the crank shaft good and tight. So i began my engine build. Reworked my heads. The correct way with grinding compound and new seals. Put a new timing chain and gear on it just because i wanted to to not have to worry about the very little play in the chain. I painted the block and the heads and man that engine ciuld go in a museum i mean its just awesome. I mean i had the time i git tbe stimulous check and was able to use one if my dads vehicles to keep up my lawncare business i started a year ago. Got the engine in with new motor mounts. Went to start it. Nothing! No crank no start. Ok its the anti theft security issue. Nope the light flashes when you open the door and goes off when you shut the door and turn the key. So new ignition switch and nope! New ignition control module and coil nope! It was the harness. So again not having 1000 to spend i found out on my own. No book nor forum nor mechanic Nor the dealer could tell me that even though its a 2002 0r 2003 or 2001 blazer or olds brevada or gmc s15 whatever if you have an automatic 2wd with a cpfi the harness will work if you cut the two wire that are extra on the oil pressure sensor and mive a few pins around in tbe fuse block in the fuse box under The hood. I found that out when i git pissed and flung a harness and by chance it landed perfectly by my original one fuse block to fuse block. Hey wait those are different. But if i mive these wires here just these three they are the same. I have a fuel pump relay that is operated by the black computer plug not connected to the wire harness that runs across the engine. Those wires were from when they changed safety features to if the oil pressure gets so low it cuts the fuel pump. So i made my own harnes all of it all the way to the transmission park nuetral switch that i replaced a few times thinking thats why it wouldnt start to the main internal harness of the transmission i replaced because the plug was full of transmission fluid causing me to think would cause connection issues. No part store told me you could pop the center of female end out and and replace that one with a new one with new a new seal. Nooooo you gotta replace the whole internal harness. If you do that new filter and 5 other solenoids Should he replaced. So my wire harness is pretty professional. I can make you one for 850. Just like the factory ones from mexico thats made there for 25 dollars but sold here for 1000. Anyways i got my truck started. Giod oil pressure transmission shifting into gear great. But tbe engine is rocking back and forth biut to jump out and slam dunk a basket ball in your face abd i hear alot if rattling thats coming from the area of the water pump and the a/c the noie from the bottom is the metal fuel lines clacking together and the exaust hitting the cross member under the cat converter. I replaced the harmonic balancer and am getting a new clutch for the fan its bad too. But with the fan off and running the engine for just a few mins the noise was still there. The new balancer helped a little bit but not much. I took a pipe and listened to the valve covers it was smooth. I listened to the water pump it was smooth i listened to the a/c i got alot of noise from it. But when you just stand over the engine its screeching and sounding like a rod if an engin had one in the top end by or near the water pump or a/c. So now im stuck with what t is that sound and why us my truck playin in the nba about to dunk on someone? Any ideas out there in 4.3 land?
Guy is asking for help and all you people do is criticize his writing?
As far as your problem, is your ignition timing correct? Is the knock sensor working? Plug gap correct? I have a 96 that michigan ate pretty good but still runs good. I didn鈥檛 start it for about 5 years and when I did, it ran like **, knocking like * until I ran it up to 2k rpm for a couple minutes. Ran fine after that. That was about 3 years ago (should probably try to start it up again soon).
 
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