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What should Ido with the blaze? (read below)

  • Drop $3200 to repair rust

    Votes: 4 18.2%
  • Drop $5000-$6000 on a later model s-10

    Votes: 18 81.8%

  • Total voters
    22
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

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Kramerica Industries
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 1991 blazer has 135000 miles on it, and the body below moldings is rusting off. I really don't have the skill set or equipment nesiccary to fix it myself.
I took it to a body shop who can repair it professionally for $3200

Mechanically the truck is fine, and it would be a shame to get rid of it in my mind.....but I don't know how much longer I can drive it without this body work.

On the other hand, it is very hard for me to drop $3200 on my blaze when I could buy a 94-96 s-10 for $5000-6000....but that's kind of a gamble in that I don't know what mechanical issues such a truck could have, or how well it's been cared for.

What do you fellas think?
 

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Project: Sabriel
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12,507 Posts
sell it, and buy a new one.
 

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Registered
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658 Posts
why's it costing you 3200 to fix you got pix of the truck?

if you wanna get rid of it i know of a friend that collects blazers

who says you have to have it match the same old color? Just put it in primer for now until more money shows up and the paint it the way you want it!
 

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Early Member
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3,135 Posts
Sell the '91. With that many miles your engine might last and might not.
 

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xtremefour
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1,805 Posts
just look around and get a new ride, once a car or truck gets to a certain point you might as well just dump it. just me .02
 

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Kramerica Industries
Joined
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
91s-10: I don't have a digital camera so no pix, but the driver's side rocker panel is competely rusted out, both front doors are only rusted below the molding, but it has rust on both the outer and inner metal layers, so I'm told I need a whole new door skin for both sides, new bottom portions of the 1/4 panels on both sides, and a driver's side rear wheel arch (strip of metal under the chrome molding).

They quoted me 22.4 hours of sheet metal replacement + 4.5 hours of repair work, and 21.3 hours of paint work....seems extreme. It's puzzleing b/c it doesn't look that bad....
 

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Kramerica Industries
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Every other shop I have taken it to so far claims they "Don't do rust, only collisions"

BS if you ask me.
 

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Quicker than a Hummer!
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349 Posts
save more, keep driving it with holes in it. Just think, its lighter now! If you cant do that then get the new rig.

oh..if these shops say no rust only collisions, then find a friend with an old beater to back into it. rust has now turned into a collison :beer:
 

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Medium-size Truckin
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4,783 Posts
If it were me, i would just drive around the rust bucket...you probably wont get much out of it if you sell it. It would be ashame to waste 3200 bucks on body work when you couldnt even sell the truck for that...Use that 3200 bucks for the new blaze....my .02 :)
 

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Quicker than a Hummer!
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349 Posts
I agree, end the $PIT
 

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Registered
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389 Posts
I say forget about a 94-96 in that price range. How about a 2000 in the LOW end of that price range? And it's TURBOCHARGED! ;)
 

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Kramerica Industries
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
heh, I sent you an e-mail blade....I would seriously buy that truck it it were 4x4....

But I really need it to be 4x4
 

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Clean N' Dark
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1,921 Posts
If your body is rusted that bad, I'd hate to see the underside of the truck.

Honestly, put your hard earned money into a newer truck instead of restoring the 91.

It will be the smartest money you will ever spend.

Hell, for 3200, I think you can buy a good condition 91 and use your truck as a parts vehicle.

Think about it, never ever having to buy parts for 2 years or so.
 

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Kramerica Industries
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
BlazerLT, I don't see many 1st gens of any year, let alone 1991's online or elsewhere very often...This could be a good option when mine kicks it.

Strangely enough, the frame has surface rust only... today I was looking up kbb value, edmunds value, black book value, etc. and realized how little it was really worth... like $1900-2100...

I guess I've just got to run her till she dies.
Thx for the advise guys.

Once she does buy it, I think I'd want either an exelent condition 1st gen or a good, solid, post 1998.
 

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Project: Sabriel
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12,507 Posts
why after 1998? id go for a low-mileage 1995 with the CPI.
 

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Registered
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15 Posts
I live in salty michigan and would take a very reliable rusty chevy anyday. If your thinking about a 9 or 10 year old replacement, you may be only buying a cleaner version of someone elses problems. I hate the thought of getting rid of a trusty unit and buying and making payments only to find it in need of repairs 6 months down the road.
 

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Kramerica Industries
Joined
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Muddy: I like the 1998+ body style better

B_N_C: At this point, I agree. The blaze is in good enough mechanical shape where I think it will last at least 2 years w/o any magor problems.
 
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