S-10 Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone new to nitrous should read this as it answers many questions. The only thing it doesn't really cover is direct port injection. I had to cut some items out as the word count was too high. Also when you see ** in front of an answer that means i edited to fit our trucks a little better as the answer was for a civicSi

Originally posted by "civicsidude" @ clubsi.com

Is n2o dangerous?
Well any Strong mod on a car can be dangerous, but n2o is just as safe as a turbo and a supercharger as long as you use your brain and don’t over due it

what is a Wet kit and What is a dry kit
A n2o wet kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying the system sprays a matching amount of fuel thru the nozzle with the n2o to give a “more accurate shot”
A n2o dry kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying the system uses a vacume to adjust the fuel pressure and use the cars injectors to spray the fuel accordingly

Items recommended to get with a 50-65 dry shot
If you are going to run a 50-65 dry shot it is not required but it is recommended that you get these mods
1. new plugs
2. fuel pressure regulator
3. new clutch

Items recommended to get with a 65-80 dry shot
If you are going to run a 65-80 shot dry it is highly recommend you get these mods in addition to the other mods
1. New fuel pump
2. ignition retard(MSD BTM)
3. Motor mount inserts

Items recommended to get with a wet shot
1. new plugs
2. FPR
3. New clutch
4. Fuel pump
5. Motor mount inserts

Do you need to retard the timing when spraying and how much to retard?
The common answer is to retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot of n2o
But most people have not retarded their timing till a 75 shot and then only retarded it 1 degree they feel you should not have to till at least 100hp shot.

Which is better WET or DRY
This depends on what you want to do,, if you are going to run less then 70-75 then dry would be best for you it is perfectly stable and easier to install..
But if you are going higher then 75 you might want to try a wet shot since the wet does manage the fuel better when spraying.

How much to fill up a bottle and how big are they?
Most bottles hold 10 pounds of N²0. The price varies according to where you live. between $2/lb-$4/lb

What is a window switch and is it needed?
A window switch is a device that when the power to the n2o is activated and the car is a WOT it will only let the n2o actually fire in the range that you specified with the switch “you change this with pills that set the rpm range” Example: you insert a 5000pill and a 7500pill you floor the car when you reach 5000 rpm the n2o will spray till you hit 7500rpm then the n2o will turn off…..

How big a shot can my car take
**different for s10s --
on a 4.3
--100wet w/o internals
on a 2.2
--50-75wet w/o internals
--more w/ internals

Do I need a purge kit and will it fit on my kit?
NO a purge kit is not needed,, a purge kit just removes the dead air in the line it saves you about .1 of a sec off your time, and the amount of n2o that gets sprayed out with the air could be used for another pass down the track, “you blow about $1.50-2.50 each time you purge”

Do I need a n2o gauge and what other guages do you recommend
--n20 pressure gauge
--fuel pressure gauge
--a/f ratio gauge

When to spray
When can or when should you spray ,, well 2 gears you should not spray in is 1st and 5th the reason being is that in first you will just sit and spin but with practice you might be able to learn how to do it,, with 5th that is the weakest gear on the clutch and tranny due to it is a highway gear and not made to handle the sudden kick of power.

What is the best bottle pressure to run and how to get that much pressure
When you are going to spray you want your bottle at the highest pressure you can get but not to dangerous 1300 is extremely high and dangerous your burst disk might blow,, 1000-1200 is the best pressure to get the most out of your kit below that you will feel it but not as hard.,,with bottle pressure of 600 you really wont feel that much at all
To achieve this you should get a bottle blanket and or a bottle heater

Do I need internal mods in my engine
You should only need internal mods with a shot of about 100 or higher if higher then 100 then I recommend piston, rods, vaulves, springs, retainers, cams, cam gears

Can I run cams with n2o
**Check w/ the cam manufacturer. but as a rule of thumb you will want very little overlap, the same goes for boosted engines

Can an Auto Tranny handle a 55 shot?
Auto trannies take better advantage of N2O than manuals since it shifts faster and you don't have to lift between gears. An auto tranny should easily handle 55HP of extra power; if anything, the torque converter isn't in question, rather the clutches/bands in the first two forward gears. Nevertheless, you should have NO problems with the 55HP dry setup

What should I run my Fuel psi at for a Zex 65-75 shot?
For a 75 shot I would run the PSI at 44 with line off. That would put your idal psi at about 41 idal psi is measured with line on of course). I actually ran my psi at 51 with line off. But was running real rich. I dyno'ed it at 44 psi with line off and the air/fuel was right on. Remember it's better to run rich then lean. And with a dry system you need the psi up higher than normal

Posted By RaYnMeLa written by the Former Owner of NX:
Nitrous-oxide (N2O) is two parts nitrous and one part oxygen. It's an expansion gas (like freon), and as such, reacts to outside temperatures. We inject the nitrous-oxide and fuel before the throttle body by means of a "nozzle" (U.S. Patent# 5699776). The nitrous "shoots" through the fuel (gas or alcohol) at a ninety degree angle, and the mixture is atomized perfectly. The nitrous should be between 900psi & 1050psi and the fuel psi is stock application off the fuel rail at the "schrader valve". The atomized mixture is then "pulled" into the manifold by the engine's vacuum and sent to the cylinders. RESULT: 100% fuel burn in the cylinder with both valves closed. This results in a carbonless combustion chamber, almost pure white sparkplugs and a light powder-gray exhaust port and header. Your car will sound like the world's biggest turbo-charged engine. First couple of times the hair on your arms will stand straight out.
Horsepower is determined by the numbered jets and corresponding jetting pattern that comes with our nitrous systems. These jets have been tested with a digital flowbench for the correct nitrous/fuel mixture for your particular application, so there's no guessing which jets goes where and causes what hp. Now comes the controversial part...WE DO NOT REQUIRE "RETARDED TIMING" PERIOD!! "Retarded timing" overheats engines, causes extreme exhaust temps, causes your engine to "lay down" in high gear, gives a false sense of power because of overly increased cylinder pressure, burns the oil off the cylinder walls causing the rings to have a "hot foot", knocks the moly off the rings, causes crushed ring lands, burned pistons and burned sparkplugs, burned exhaust valves, etc. Result: You just sacrificed your engine because the "other" brand didn't make a nozzle that atomizes, so they had to make power some way...enter the "retarded timing" solution.
Then they introduced the "dry" system, their thinking was, if we don't atomize the fuel (you can not burn "raw fuel" in the cylinder...it catches fire and goes out the exhaust, causing popping, backfiring, flames out of the headers and other assorted nasty things), then let's just eliminate the fuel through the nozzle and add it later (plus they can sell you another fuel pump that you don't need). Results of a "dry" system are intake manifold back-fires, blown airboxes, mufflers the size of garbage cans, false horsepower claims, & pre-loads and locks-up the fuel-injectors. I'm not trying to scare you, but without knowledge, you can not make an intelligent decision. So now you're asking yourself if the "other" brands make such an inferior product, why are they selling so many. The answer is "advertising & marketing", i.e. "McDonald's"...probably not your first choice for a *good* hamburger, but their name, logo, and advertising are everywhere. Our NX nitrous systems come with a "money back guarantee", if you're not satisfied with the performance and you followed OUR instructions. The "other" brands will not match this guarantee, nor will you get the same answer twice if you call them. This is where "tech" comes in, and our tech comes direct from me, John Stewart, a.k.a. "Mr. Nitrous"...over 21 yrs. in the nitrous industry. I hold the patents on all NX nozzles and all the "Gemini-Twin" plates...the "retired" (as of 4/98) Founder, President, CEO and Engineer of Nitrous Express - Next Generation Technology. I'm now the Consulting Engineer for NX, own Nitrous Warehouse (NX's largest distributor for the last 3 yrs.) and "Mr. Nitrous" Racing.

What's the differance between the MSD BTM and the MSD Dig 6+?
The BTM retards timing as it measures boost. Which is great for a turbo car that builds boost but a N2O car doesn't build boost it gives all at one time. That's why the Digital 6+ is better for N2O cars cause it retards timing as soon as you arm your Nitrous kit.

The MSD Dig 6+ doesn't do anything with controling your spraying that is done with an MSD Window Switch which is controled with pills to turn it on and off at certain rpm's (depending on which pills you put in, for instance 400 rpm pill to turn on and 8000 rpm pill to turn off)

Hope these help.

end of post

if you guys have any more questions let me know. If I can't answer them the guys at clubsi.com are awesome.

201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This thread is for nitrous theory and implementation not pricing. Please creat a new thread to ask about pricing and availability. But yes you can use the retard on any of the MSD6 ignitions.

want my #... 911 beotch!!
2,186 Posts
Re: Heres my ???

01ZQ8 said:
The first part of that post says to retard te timeing 2 degrees for every 50 HP. The second part, by "Mr. Nitrous" says clearly that they do not retard timing at all. Which one?!?!?

good question. i didnt realize that when i read it.

201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Heres my ???

01ZQ8 said:
The first part of that post says to retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50 HP. The second part, by "Mr. Nitrous" says clearly that they do not retard timing at all. Which one?!?!?
They are both somewhat correct.:confused: You can retard the timing to avoid detonation; however, at the cost of carbon build up as meantioned. I personally would not retard the timing very far as the carbon build up can be catastrophic
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.