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Oaktown Trucks
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done a carbed SB350 swap on my '91 Jimmy. Building a custom dash with all Autometer UltraLite gauges and having a few problems. I think I have everything wired up correctly, but a few things still aren't working. Hoping some of you can tell me exactly how you got things working.

Thanks in advance!

Fuel Gauge:
Ign: Wired to a hot that's only on when the ignition's on.
Ground: Grounded to framerail, near fuel tank
Sender: Wired to 0-90 ohm stock fuel sender in factory tank.

Oil Pressure Gauge:
Ign: Wired to a hot that's only on when the ignition's on.
Ground: Grounded to the body, near the dash, which is grounded to the engine block.
Sender: wired directly to the oil pressure sender, which is threaded into a port at the back of the intake manifold.
 

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Did you make sure your frame and body ground connection points were completely clean before ground connection? How is the engine block grounded? how is the fram grounded? Pretty sure your not getting a good ground to the frame from the battery because you probably also have your engine grounded to the frame.

If you're positve the grounds are good,
Do you have a good crimp on the 12v terminal going to the gauge? Test to make sure you are getting 12v through the terminal.

If you do, I would take the sending unit wires off of the sending unit (not the gauge) an connect them directly to ground. This will allow you to see if the gauges are working properly. If nothing happens, check the crimps on the terminals going to the gauges. If these have continuity with your ground source then it could be bad gauges. Can't say I've ever heard of someone haveing 2 bad gauges though.
 

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Oaktown Trucks
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I'll check through things again, but here's a little history:

The battery is grounded to the frame with 4 gauge wire. The frame was ground clean before connecting. Frame to block is the same. Block to body looks good, but is the most questionable of the connections.

I thought the oil pressure sender might be bad, so I had Autometer send me a brand new one.

The instructions for the fuel gauge says "fuel tank ground". Is this an actual ground on the tank? If so, does this need to be used or is a ground to the frame ok?

Where are people running the grounds for their oil and fuel gauges? Does a body ground behind the dash work ok, or does it have to be to the tank/frame/block?
 

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The sending unit needs to be grounded. Do not rely on mounting bolts going into the tank for these grounds. Run a ground from the frame to one of the bolts on the sendig unit if your sending unit doesn't have a ground terminal/stud.

You didn't use any kind of thread sealant on the oil pressure sender did you? In lots of causes guys will use sealant which will interfere with the ground the sending unit is getting through the threads.
 

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i would hook the autometers up to the factory plug there for the gauge cluster...it has grounds, 12v ign, and the sending unit wires in it already properly ran and fused....easiest way to do it

for the fuel gauge, the pump/sender should be grounded out by the tank, then the gauge itself needs a ground...as stated id go to the factory plug for that

oil psi gauge should only be a single wire coming off the sending unit, thats how my autometers are....like someone said if you used alot of sealant it might interfere with the ground....and the ign and ground for the gauge itself i would get at the factory plug


do you have any pics of how u did your cluster?? i put a 5in tach and speedo in the factory spot and a 3 gauge pillar pod, 1 above the headlight switch and 3 more above the radio where the vents used to be
 

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Oaktown Trucks
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the input guys. To answer a few questions:

Unfortunatly, the stock gauge wiring is gone. Everything in this truck has been rewired.

I did use thread sealant on the fittings for the oil pressure sender. Seemed like it was the only way I could get it to seal up. I'm wondering if there's another way to ground it. I don't have a good pic of the setup, but you can kind of see it in this older pic.
 

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I also just noticed you have the body grounded to the block, I would also run a dedicated ground from the body to the frame. I am sure the bolts holding the body to the frame may be giving you some continuity with the ground circuit through the frame, but other than that you have your body and engine grounded through one wire going back to the frame. That one ground connection is trying to ground everything. Did you use 4 gauge for these grounds as well (frame to engine, body to engine)?

What are the gauges doing or not doing?
 
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