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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just wondering if anyone here can answer my ??? Is it possible to raise the driver side instead of lowering the passenger side. I ask because the truck is my daily driver and the wheel rubs the driver side wheel well when I hits dips in the road and not the passenger side. Should I just lower the passenger side and hope it raises the driver side up a little. I haven't done any measurements yet but I looks to be 3/4" down on the passenger side or 3/4 up on the drivers side. Thanks for your time guys..........
 

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Thanks For Your Support
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You didn't say how much you need to raise it but here's a 1/2" coil sparing spacer most use for the chevy lean. Got mine from Summitt Racing


BEL-4930 Belltech Front Spring Spacers
Bushing, Spring Spacer, Front Upper, .750 in. Tall, Polyurethane, Black, Chevy/ GMC, S-Series Pickup/ SUV, Eac...
 

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Blazin on 8!
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x2... If you are going for the low thing, (like me, and about 90% of the people on here) you might not want to raise the driver's side. I modded my inners (ball pein style!) so the tire wouldn't rub. Search on here about the sway bar spacer mod to fix the chevy lean. It slightly raises the driver's side, but it also lowers your passenger side. I did it, and made sure to do before and after tests of hard core cornering, and couldn't tell a difference! I have yet to hear about any negative side effects.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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x2... If you are going for the low thing, (like me, and about 90% of the people on here) you might not want to raise the driver's side. I modded my inners (ball pein style!) so the tire wouldn't rub. Search on here about the sway bar spacer mod to fix the chevy lean. It slightly raises the driver's side, but it also lowers your passenger side. I did it, and made sure to do before and after tests of hard core cornering, and couldn't tell a difference! I have yet to hear about any negative side effects.
ha. if you preload your swaybar and do 'hardcore' cornering and dont notice anything, you shouldnt even consider 'hardcore' driving.
the swaybar bind mod is NOT a fix. it's like masking tape over a rust hole. dumbasses might think it's better, but it's actually making it worse.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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24,783 Posts
spring rubbers.
if you are talking about the kind that goes between the individual coils, almost as bad as the swaybar bind method.
but if you mean like a spacer above or below the coil, that will work, although a stiffer material is better
 

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shifting gears
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I realize that spring rubbers also stiffen the spring rate of the spring. However, the bump stops that my truck sits on will do the same thing. If a rising rate spring scenario is a bad thing, then progressive rate springs wouldn't exist. Using spring rubbers will unbind the sway bar, just as using a spring spacer will - when used to level the vehicle. The nascar gang drives faster than I do - if they don't have a problem with spring rubbers, then I have a hard time cursing them.

Yeah, I know rubbers can fly out on the railroad tracks, but I never lost any when using them to correct stereo system induced rear sag on my IRS Thunderbird. I merely aimed to suggest a "cheap, quick fix, no wrenches" solution before busting a ball joint to stuff in a new spring seat.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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24,783 Posts
I realize that spring rubbers also stiffen the spring rate of the spring. However, the bump stops that my truck sits on will do the same thing. If a rising rate spring scenario is a bad thing, then progressive rate springs wouldn't exist. Using spring rubbers will unbind the sway bar, just as using a spring spacer will - when used to level the vehicle. The nascar gang drives faster than I do - if they don't have a problem with spring rubbers, then I have a hard time cursing them.

Yeah, I know rubbers can fly out on the railroad tracks, but I never lost any when using them to correct stereo system induced rear sag on my IRS Thunderbird. I merely aimed to suggest a "cheap, quick fix, no wrenches" solution before busting a ball joint to stuff in a new spring seat.
no no, rising rates is fine. unbalanced right and left rates is not.

do NOT use nascar vehicle setups for any road car unless you wanna sound like a dumbass.

the aero + banking alone is enough to void any comparison to our trucks, and then their assymetrical setup is well.... incredible once you look into what is actually involved in making the whole car turn one way and not the other.

imo, there is no such thing as a 'cheap, easy. AND good way" to fix most problems.
 

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I plan on using the spacer on my truck as soon as I get the cash to redo the suspension. Don't think I will mess with the sway bar. But I also don't plan to be out road racing either. Maybe a bit of straight line though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey guys thanks for the info I think Im gonna try and mod the wheel wells and lower the passenger side because it just looks way better that way. Any how too's on wheel well mods?? I'll post a pic just as soon as I take one.
 

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shifting gears
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greencactus:

I sit on one side of the car. So does the gas tank. So does the steering column and steering box, evaporator tank, transfer case, front driveshaft, brake booster, 4wd front differential, third door, etc, etc. I don't think the battery and muffler hold a candle to these items. In theory, keeping things symmetric is a nice idea. In practice? For a 3200 pound truck, that sounds like a pretty substantial inbalance to me. I don't think that suggesting an asymmetric solution to an asymmetric problem makes me much of a dumbass at all. Even if you hit a seam in the pavement - a totally symmetric dynamic input - if you have the same spring rates on each side, the lighter side will tend to rebound further. Perhaps having inbalanced rates on an imbalanced vehicle isn't that far fetched.

I know - racetrack guys use spring rubbers to change rate. They put "turns" in and out to change preload. I agreed that a spring seat was a better way to fix the problem - even if the only reason is that spring rubbers may tend to bounce out. However, I qualified them as a $5 fix until the OP next has his lower ball joint busted apart and spring pulled anyway. Frankly, that's not something I happen to have done very often. I think I had a spring pulled three years ago when I pressed in a new ball joint on a blazer with 200k miles on it.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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Or a-arm pivots or however you plan on pulling the thing out. My point still stands.
not really. its 30 min to pull a coil out. 30 min to put it back in.

and im sure if i had air tools and a proper jack itd be faster.

anyways, no more dumb arguement. we will believe what we believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks! I finally got around to putting in the spacer. It worked perfect!

You didn't say how much you need to raise it but here's a 1/2" coil sparing spacer most use for the chevy lean. Got mine from Summitt Racing


BEL-4930 Belltech Front Spring Spacers
Bushing, Spring Spacer, Front Upper, .750 in. Tall, Polyurethane, Black, Chevy/ GMC, S-Series Pickup/ SUV, Eac...
 

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Happy with ugly truck
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Pc load letter, what the **** does that mean?!
 
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