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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Figure I’ll post in here since I’m not a new member but I don’t post much. Girlfriend Picked me up a 98 gmc Sonoma reg cab short bed 5spd 2.2 has100k. To replace my 2000 s10 extended cab 4.3L 5 spd that got totaled on me. Unfortunately. Sad day. Anyway Sweet little Sonoma clean no rust or rot. Was a crank no start deal. Started tearing into it. Turns out to be a bad headgasket. Pulled it apart checked the head turns out to be to out of spec to resurface. So that’s where I am with the truck now. Any recommendations for where to get a reman head from ? Thanks guys I’ll post some pictures. Hopefully I can get it on the road soon so I can start doing other stuff to it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes I am lol just trying to get it on the road drive it around a little while I save up and collect parts for a v8 swap
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright guys got a remained head from rock auto. Plus a few other parts to finish up the job. Everything went back together beautifully. Bleed the coolant system. Went to push the clutch in won’t let put it into gear. Clutch won’t disengage. Checked the clutch master dry. Looks like the slave is leaking have a nice mess around the bell housing. Tired every bleeding process out there to get it to work no luck. Have to pull the trans now. That’s where I am now. Almost ready for the road lol
 

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8/31/1897 - 4/29/2004
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Any good tips on bleeding the clutch system ?
Don’t bleed it like brakes...let it gravity bleed. Cap off,bleeder open.keeping it full the whole time...do not touch the pedal. once it’s gravity bled through,tighten the bleeder,then Pump it gently in short pumps about half way down,not all the way to the floor,..release it,then gravity bleed..do not open the bleeder open when you push the pedal down! A couple of gravity bleeds is all it should need..,then with the bleeder tight you can travel it to the floor,and test clutch operation.

I pull these trucks apart regularly..this is how I do it. If you bleed it like brakes it’ll never feel right,and you risk damaging the clutch master by pushing it’s piston past it’s normal area of travel,and damaging an internal seal...that was a common mistake on old Honda’s back in the day after replacing their crappy rear calipers,..common mistake on these trucks when replacing the clutch as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Little update got the slave all working good. Road tested it come to find out 5th gear no good. Shot. Just pulled the trans and got a used unit from a junkyard. Threw it in last night just need fluids and bleed clutch! Hopefully this one is good. Also will be looking into lowering the truck a 2/3 drop. Don’t know if I should go with springs or drop spindles ? Any input would be good thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update!!! The used transmission works great no issues. Just ordered front end parts and a 2/3 drop kit. (Springs up front and lowering blocks in rear with new shocks ). New control arms upper and lower. Front brakes. And wheel bearings. Should be a nice ride and stance once I’m done.
 

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Update!!! The used transmission works great no issues. Just ordered front end parts and a 2/3 drop kit. (Springs up front and lowering blocks in rear with new shocks ). New control arms upper and lower. Front brakes. And wheel bearings. Should be a nice ride and stance once I’m done.
I wish I had seen your thread sooner as drop spindles would have been better since you don't lose suspension travel and retain the stock ride. Hopefully, the shocks you are getting are valved for the stiffer spring rate you get with lowering springs.
 
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