S-10 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so the pump went out on my 96 2.2 s10. I turn the key and it didn't prime. replaced the relay, and still nothing. So I'm just going to put in a inline fuel pump. can anyone shed some light on this for me? Like which one to pick? is there one big enough to suck thru the on in the tank and still have enough pressure to work with the truck? let me know :) much appreciated.

ps or is it just worth replacing the whole pump. kinda weird series of events went on before all this happend... i just got done replacing the alternator the same day the truck stopped working.
 

·
It's mostly BS
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Put 12v on this red wire item 1, it's the fuel pump test wire. If the pump runs, the problem is not the pump, which is very possible.



Check the ground here near the driver's side bumper too:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
Although it would seem as though an inline pump would be an easy fix here there is a lot more to it than simply cutting the fuel line. To do it correctly you would need to gut your factory hanger out and run a sump hose from the top of the fuel hanger to the bottom of the tank. This would also eliminate the bucket design of the hanger and leave you more susceptible to fuel slosh and pump cavitation. Then you need to select a pump that works with similar fitting sizes and flow capabilities. Then you need to mount the pump somewhere under the truck where it is lower than the tank and will not be damaged by heat and debris. Next you will need to wire the new pump to a relay whether it is the factory wiring or a hot wire kit. All in all you will most likely spend the same amount of money and have more work into it than you would if you simply replaced the module. Not to mention that inline pumps are notorious for failing as well, and are extremely noisy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Put 12v on this red wire item 1, it's the fuel pump test wire. If the pump runs, the problem is not the pump, which is very possible.



Check the ground here near the driver's side bumper too:

10-4, had to tell where that wire is under the hood. where should i be looking? by the brake booster?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Although it would seem as though an inline pump would be an easy fix here there is a lot more to it than simply cutting the fuel line. To do it correctly you would need to gut your factory hanger out and run a sump hose from the top of the fuel hanger to the bottom of the tank. This would also eliminate the bucket design of the hanger and leave you more susceptible to fuel slosh and pump cavitation. Then you need to select a pump that works with similar fitting sizes and flow capabilities. Then you need to mount the pump somewhere under the truck where it is lower than the tank and will not be damaged by heat and debris. Next you will need to wire the new pump to a relay whether it is the factory wiring or a hot wire kit. All in all you will most likely spend the same amount of money and have more work into it than you would if you simply replaced the module. Not to mention that inline pumps are notorious for failing as well, and are extremely noisy.
Thanks for the input. i'd have to agree. i've been reading up
 

·
It's mostly BS
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
If the pump runs, then the pump is probably ok along with the ground. Locate the starter relay. put your finger on it, does it click when someone tries to start it? If not, the check the ground lug on the transmission to engine bolt on the lower passenger side. That is the ground for the trigger side of the starter relay. If that's good, and it won't click, then it might be the ignition switch.

Look here:



Look at the pink wire coming out of the ignition switch. That power the ecm through the ECM ign fuse 10. What you can do is to probe the top of the fuse for voltage when the key is in run. If no power there, then it could ignition. Also, check where the power comes from in the battery junction block on the drivers fender. Make sure all of those wires are clean and tight. Can't hurt to check the fusible links too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If the pump runs, then the pump is probably ok along with the ground. Locate the starter relay. put your finger on it, does it click when someone tries to start it? If not, the check the ground lug on the transmission to engine bolt on the lower passenger side. That is the ground for the trigger side of the starter relay. If that's good, and it won't click, then it might be the ignition switch.

Look here:



Look at the pink wire coming out of the ignition switch. That power the ecm through the ECM ign fuse 10. What you can do is to probe the top of the fuse for voltage when the key is in run. If no power there, then it could ignition. Also, check where the power comes from in the battery junction block on the drivers fender. Make sure all of those wires are clean and tight. Can't hurt to check the fusible links too.
ill check it out today, the truck has a push button starter btw. not my doing but the doing of the last owner.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top