[Jl1023]

I have three 24v 4.0AH and one 24v 2.0AH. This is all i got done before i needed to recharge the batteries. I wasn't thinking before i started with the cutoff wheel and used it for the majority of it, should have sawsall the brackets off and saved batteries...smh. next round i should be at least done with this side and half the driver side and then slide the axle under it when its all grounded off on both sides. Then I'll see where im at. Kinda confused with the Wagoneer springs, if i cut the sway bar brackets off or mount it in front of it. Guess it all depends on the center line of the axle in the wheel wells. I was hoping to leave the sway bar brackets to hopefully reuse them for a traction bar.

 

[TomA]

I have cutoff wheels, a torch, and a plasma cutter, but I still cut all my old stuff off with a Sawzall. It was faster and easier, with no risk of fire.

Cutting and grinding is definitely the worst part of the job, IMO. Putting stuff together is way more fun.

 

[Jl1023]

I have cutoff wheels, a torch, and a plasma cutter, but I still cut all my old stuff off with a Sawzall. It was faster and easier, with no risk of fire.

Cutting and grinding is definitely the worst part of the job, IMO. Putting stuff together is way more fun.

I hear that man. Sawzall FTW! I know some of these mounts could honestly stay but im not going to cut corners as much as possible. One battery finished charging so i was able to get the passenger side to this point. Not the cleanest job but definitely better. 36grit flap wheel on the grinder is like cutting butter with a hot knife too.

 

[Jl1023]

I got a little Gnarly with the primer on the drivers side lol. Thank god thats over with. Done for tonight, going to clean up all my cuttings and debris tomorrow then throw that steering box in and slide this unit up under and see what all i need to chop up still. Possibly tack it and see how it sits.

 

[Jl1023]

My jack stands weren't cutting it. Had to pickup some big dogs. Got it slid up under there and now im debating on cutting the sway bar mounts out to get the axle slid back just a hair and im guessing i have to make a pearch for the rear shackle mount if it doesn't line up on the frame rail? And im not sure if the big bushing on the leaf springs is supposed to mount to the front hanger or back shackles. I have the big bushings up front right now. Taking a break before i start measuring and squaring it up. Going to mount the shackle mounts just forward of 90° so i get a 30° or 40° on the ground. Confusing but i got this. Looking up where i can get some steel plate to make some shackle mounts. Someone chime in man im stressing lol 😆 🙃 😅 🤣 😂 😩

 

[Jl1023]

Still need some plate steel for the rear shackles but i think i have the front hanger square and am going to tack it tonight and find some metal supply Monday. Cleaned the front frame rails pretty good. Going to take some mineral spirits to it and measure one more time and tack.

 

[TomA]

I'm sure you've probably already thought it through, but make sure the axle is far enough forward that the tires you plan to run (and any you might decide to run in the future) won't hit the firewall when you turn. There's not a lot of material to trim in that direction.

 

[Jl1023]

I'm sure you've probably already thought it through, but make sure the axle is far enough forward that the tires you plan to run (and any you might decide to run in the future) won't hit the firewall when you turn. There's not a lot of material to trim in that direction.

I have no idea if its correct, but the way my brain works is... i put the center line of the axle 2 1/2" forward of the center of the wheel wells...? Hoping when i get the rear shackles mounted and weight on the leafs it will kick the centerline back some? Hehe who knows. I'll cut the tacks and move it forward or back if i have to...

 

[TomA]

Yes, the axle will move back a bit as the springs flatten out. You don't necessarily want the wheels in the center of the wheel well. With the stock (29 inch?) tires, there isn't a ton of room between the firewall and the tire when you turn. With 33x12.50 tires, there's going to be a lot less. Obviously, it's going to be lifted for clearance, but you still don't want the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses.

I'm running 47" Chevy leaf springs on mine, and the front hanger is all the way at the front of the frame to clear 37s.

 

[Jl1023]

Yes, the axle will move back a bit as the springs flatten out. You don't necessarily want the wheels in the center of the wheel well. With the stock (29 inch?) tires, there isn't a ton of room between the firewall and the tire when you turn. With 33x12.50 tires, there's going to be a lot less. Obviously, it's going to be lifted for clearance, but you still don't want the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses.

I'm running 47" Chevy leaf springs on mine, and the front hanger is all the way at the front of the frame to clear 37s.

I have 31"s on it, im ordering 35"s shortly after i finish it up. Its on 44" 1983 V8 Wagoneer 5leafs. The front of the sky hanger where it says sky offroad design is right at 10" from the factory front crossmember. And 2 1/4" overhang on each side of the sky front hanger. I really appreciate you chiming in. Im kinda doing all this by what I've read and watched online and seen in pictures.

 

[Jl1023]

Well... I threw enough tacks on everything to get her up off the jack stands. Looks like the axle is just forward of the center of the wheel wells still. I dont think i used my digital angle finder correctly or if it matters but i took the angles from the front side of the shackles and used the side of it. Ill take a bunch more angles tomorrow but with all hand tight bolts and just tacks the passenger side said 62° and driver was at 64° im definitely figuring this welder out still. Tomorrow im going to make a bunch of gussets and get those in and tighten all the bolts and take some more measurements before i completely weld the shackle mounts to the base plates. Ill make sure i still have a leaf centerline of 31.5 definitely happy with it so far. I thought i would have to cut the tacks 100x before i got it right and this was my first try. Hollar at yall tomorrow.

 

[eshaw]

Another thing to keep in mind is that those Wagoneer springs are not centered. One side is longer than the other. If you set the springs in place with the short side (26 inch) forward and later you need more firewall clearance you just turn the springs around and you pickup 5 inches because the long side is (31 inch).

 

[Jl1023]

Another thing to keep in mind is that those Wagoneer springs are not centered. One side is longer than the other. If you set the springs in place with the short side (26 inch) forward and later you need more firewall clearance you just turn the springs around and you pickup 5 inches because the long side is (31 inch).

I think you are talking about rear leafs. I bought the front leafs for a 1983 V8 Wagoneer, dayton 97380 they are 22 and 24 end to center. This might be a mistake and i should have bought rears but when i put the weight of the truck on them they sit pretty good to me. And i always have the option to buy rear leafs and move the axle forward if need be.

I got the base plates and shackle hangers and front hanger completely welded and gussets in today. Didn't take more pictures as nothing really changed. I did mess up and forgot to remove the hanger bushings on the drivers side and melted them. They are ordered and will be here Wednesday... waiting on adapters and brake calipers and rotors to get the front wheels on to post some pictures on the 31" tires.

Tomorrow im going to work on the steering Linkage and box. And i will probably paint the transfer case crossmember and mock it up in there to see my clearance for a double cardan front driveshaft, Ill post some pictures. Still need a drop pitman arm. May tack the spring pearches after i get the pinion angle where i believe is correct after watching tom woods youtube videos about double cardan and pinion angles.

 

[eshaw]

That's possible, my bad. I thought I was measuring a front. I'm going to try and send you a copy of those hub adapters I was talking about so you can see what they look like.

 

[Jl1023]

I moved the axle on the pearches to the furthest point forward. I installed the new bushings in the hanger i burnt the bushings in. Im ordering some parts tomorrow so i should have some updates in the next few days. I really want my shackle angle perfect on both sides even though its damn close "within 2° of each other at full compression" so i may move my base plate on one side...

One thing i dont really understand or know about yet is this Astro steering box. Im getting a pitman arm for it. With the Astro box the the arm is forward and infront of the differential. So like. ]/ with the Jimmy box it would be more in line with the differential so like ]¡ in my eyes the Jimmy box would be better.? Can anyone tell me whats better?

 

[TomA]

I would pay more attention to the distance between the front and rear hangers being the same on both sides than the actual shackle angles being identical. Slight variations in spring arch, weight distribution, etc. can make one side sag a tiny bit more than the other and affect the spring length (and shackle angle).

The best steering box (original or Astro) is the one that gives you the best angle for your steering linkage, depending on your steering system, axle location, etc. Every build is different, and you just need to figure some things out as you go.

 

[Jl1023]

I would pay more attention to the distance between the front and rear hangers being the same on both sides than the actual shackle angles being identical. Slight variations in spring arch, weight distribution, etc. can make one side sag a tiny bit more than the other and affect the spring length (and shackle angle).

The best steering box (original or Astro) is the one that gives you the best angle for your steering linkage, depending on your steering system, axle location, etc. Every build is different, and you just need to figure some things out as you go.

After reading what you said i came back out to check my measurements. Rear hanger on the passenger side is 1/2 further back. The front hanger is squared perfectly. The outside of the front hangers are 34" dead on. The rear is 34 1/2" wide. So i have a half inch F+R and a half inch side to side off centered on the rear hangers , dont know how i screwed that up.

Think ill move the passenger side forward 1/2". And i need to figure out how to know what side is out 1/2" or should i not worry about that?

I tightened everything down and i have 21.40° passenger side shackle angle and 28.80° on the drivers side.

 

[Jl1023]

Fixed the passenger side rear hanger tonight, its now 44" dead on from the front of the front hanger to front of the rear hanger on both sides. And 34" outside of the front of the leafs and the back of the leafs. I think that as square as it get in my book shackle angleat full droop is 9° on both sides now. Did some finish welding tonight. Letting them cool and ill primer them tomorrow. Going to work on the steering tomorrow.

 

[Jl1023]

Had to throw the adapters on just to see... them 31" use to look so good on there and rub. Now it looks like i have passenger car tires on it...smh. Definitely ordering some 35s. Fender to floor is 48 1/2" in the front and 40 1/4 in the rear the axle flip in the rear should get me right where i need it and the shackles in the rear have multiple levels so i can dial it in.

 

[Jl1023]

Been putting fence up around the property the past few days while i wait on parts. I wanted to pull the front driveshaft out as a quick easy project. But its not the slip yoke on the front transfer case output? Its bolted on. Am i stupid or is this front yoke already been swapped to the jeep yoke? The case has definitely been opened before judging by the grey RTV squeezing out the case halfs. I thought np233c all had a slip yoke front output shaft. Do i just need to buy a high clearance cv style yoke now to use the double cardan front driveshaft? Confused...