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93 Jimmy SAS

5079 Views 94 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  izom
This is my 1993 GMC Jimmy SLT 4X4
I have a few parts already. The rest are in the mail or being fabricated and then will be in the mail. I will try and be very transparent and clear on the parts im using and what i have done. Some things will be done after the majority of the swap is done (steering,shocks,add a leafs,ect...)

This will be spring over axle front and rear.

The parts list i have or have purchased and will be shipped shortly. Obviously incomplete.

Junkyard Dana30 HP 3.73 from a 95 YJ
Sky offroad design SAS kit
Sky offroad design transfer case mount
Extream terrain SOA Dana30 leaf pearches
Extream terrain Dana30 lower shock tabs
Front upper shock mount tabs ford f250
Astro box 2wd none sport suspension
Wagoneer front leaf springs 1034#
LKQ -S10 rear 3.73 axle GT4
JB SYE transfer case kit
Spartan front locker
Ballistic rear axle flip pearches
More steering correction stage 1

Wood Art Tints and shades Flooring Asphalt

Automotive tire Camera accessory Motor vehicle Cameras & optics Camera lens

Wood Gas Automotive exterior Denim T-shirt

White Wood Automotive tire Road surface Gas

Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle
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1 - 11 of 95 Posts
I have cutoff wheels, a torch, and a plasma cutter, but I still cut all my old stuff off with a Sawzall. It was faster and easier, with no risk of fire.

Cutting and grinding is definitely the worst part of the job, IMO. Putting stuff together is way more fun.
I'm sure you've probably already thought it through, but make sure the axle is far enough forward that the tires you plan to run (and any you might decide to run in the future) won't hit the firewall when you turn. There's not a lot of material to trim in that direction.
Yes, the axle will move back a bit as the springs flatten out. You don't necessarily want the wheels in the center of the wheel well. With the stock (29 inch?) tires, there isn't a ton of room between the firewall and the tire when you turn. With 33x12.50 tires, there's going to be a lot less. Obviously, it's going to be lifted for clearance, but you still don't want the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses.

I'm running 47" Chevy leaf springs on mine, and the front hanger is all the way at the front of the frame to clear 37s.
I would pay more attention to the distance between the front and rear hangers being the same on both sides than the actual shackle angles being identical. Slight variations in spring arch, weight distribution, etc. can make one side sag a tiny bit more than the other and affect the spring length (and shackle angle).

The best steering box (original or Astro) is the one that gives you the best angle for your steering linkage, depending on your steering system, axle location, etc. Every build is different, and you just need to figure some things out as you go.
Looks like you lucked out. Just switch out that yoke for whatever flange or yoke you need to work with your driveshaft and you should be golden.
I don't think that yoke will work with a CV joint. And it's definitely not a 1310 u-joint, which I'm guessing your new driveshaft has.
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If you don't want to buy new shocks, you can weld shock mounts down a little lower on the axle tube so they're extended more at ride height. Even if you are going to buy new shocks, it will let you use longer ones.
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Yeah I'm still debating on it. I did cut the shock tabs off the dana30 pretty clean, I could use those. As you see I just flipped the ubolt bracket and swapped sides.
It looks like that worked pretty well. I don't really know how strong those stock shock mounts are, though. If you're going to be bouncing around much, you may still want to upgrade to some heavier-duty welded ones. I usually buy all those kinds of parts from Ruffstuff Specialties because they're closest to me, but WFO Concepts and Barnes 4WD are also good.
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Do you like the bilstein shocks? I read fox are better but wear out faster. I went with the happy medium.
I think the ones on my Blazer are Skyjackers. Not even the gas ones, just the cheapest ones. 99% of what I do is rock crawling, so they don't really matter that much. But they actually ride decently on the street, too.

My Super Duty (yeah, I know. It's a Ford) has Bilsteins on it, and I love them. They were a huge improvement over the Pro-Comp shocks they replaced.
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That appears to be the right one. I guess you'll know soon enough, lol.
Well, that sucks. Normally I would say maybe you can clean up the threads on the shaft and use a new nut. But it looks way too far gone for that, and it's brand new, so it needs to be replaced. John at JB is a stand-up guy. I'm sure he'll take care of you.
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1 - 11 of 95 Posts