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@Hedgeapple2 makes a valid point. You could have a wire that the insulation was rubbed thru nearly anywhere. If you can narrow down which item is causing the fuse to blow and follow it's wires you might find it.
You could jump the fuse with piece of heavy wire and look for where the smoke starts to come from. Problem with that method is you could melt your whole wiring harness or start the truck on fire. I've done it, but highly recommend NOT doing it. Have a big class C extinguisher handy.
You pretty much have to be at the "I'll either fix it or burn it to the ground" point in your search to use that method. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes sir Mr. Slayer, I've been to that point & beyond for a while. I have my ole trusty paperclip handy, & should be able to do it with minimal damage. Since it only does it with the switch on, I can do the inside first, cut the switch on for only a couple seconds, then look for smoke & smell for it. If not I can go under the hood & unplug the ground to the battery cut the switch on & then attach the ground & look, listen, & smell for smoke if not after a few seconds unplug the battery & try again. Thanks for the suggestion & I'll only use it as a last resort. Wishing you & yours a wonderful Turkey Day or is it Buck Day in your part of the world? Which ever it is, stay safe my friend, & always smile it makes people wonder what you're up to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hey Tim, Let's start from the beginning.
Are you saying that your truck worked perfectly and then one day for no apparent reason this problem just started?

Had there been other unrelated work done to the truck recently?

Does the truck start, run and drive with the ign/gauge fuse removed, excepting the devices on this circuit?

In your post #5 you said “There is a clear or white junction box at the bottom end of the steering column at center top”. That would be the ignition switch. Your photo in post #5 shows one of the ign switch connectors. There are four wires on the connector, the red wire comes from the battery (always powered) and supplies power to the ignition switch. The the pink wire (only has power when the ignition switch is in the run or start position) leaves the switch and powers the ignition coil and 3 fuses, (ign/gauge, turn/backup and ecm1).The ign/gauges fuse output wire has a pink wire with a black stripe (pnk/blk).

Let's assume that everything on your truck is working properly except the ign/gauges fuse and do a basic checking of the obvious things first.

Alternator, unplug the connector with two wires, a pnk/blk wire and a brown wire.

Cruise control SW, unplug the cruise control switch under dash by steering column, 4 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, 2 dk blu wires and a gry wire.

AC comp relay, unplug the AC comp relay (should be located on the firewall). It will have 5 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, a red wire and three more wires, probably dk grn.

Unplug the instrument cluster connector at the back of gauge panel. Yes, there is a pnk/blk wire in the connector.

With these items disconnected does the fuse still fail?
Hello Scott, I'm having one heck of a time finding the AC comp relay. I have found the fuel pump relay, the ESC, the blower motor relay, & the MAP sensor, but no ac relay. Do you have any idea where else to look? I looked the relay up just to see what it looks like, but still cant find it. Just to fill you in this started out of the blue. Also I unplugged everything I just listed & it still blows the fuse. Not sure if this matters but when it blows it's like a hard blow, & the flash off of it is pretty bright. I also want to thank you for helping me understand a little about the wiring. You were the only one who helped me understand the pink wire by what it does. The sad thing is that I still can't find what is causing it. So does the pink wire run to the IGN Coil first & back to the fuse box? Also if it does is there no fuse on the coil? I would be more than happy to pay you or a gift for helping me figure this crazy thing out. I've been on this issue for about 2 weeks now, and it's about to get to me. I need my truck it's my money maker, but this had made it my money taker. Thank you for your time Scott, & if aloud I would like to do something to help you. Sincerely, Tim Ballas
 

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Hey Tim, Let's start from the beginning.
Are you saying that your truck worked perfectly and then one day for no apparent reason this problem just started?

Had there been other unrelated work done to the truck recently?

Does the truck start, run and drive with the ign/gauge fuse removed, excepting the devices on this circuit?

In your post #5 you said “There is a clear or white junction box at the bottom end of the steering column at center top”. That would be the ignition switch. Your photo in post #5 shows one of the ign switch connectors. There are four wires on the connector, the red wire comes from the battery (always powered) and supplies power to the ignition switch. The the pink wire (only has power when the ignition switch is in the run or start position) leaves the switch and powers the ignition coil and 3 fuses, (ign/gauge, turn/backup and ecm1).The ign/gauges fuse output wire has a pink wire with a black stripe (pnk/blk).

Let's assume that everything on your truck is working properly except the ign/gauges fuse and do a basic checking of the obvious things first.

Alternator, unplug the connector with two wires, a pnk/blk wire and a brown wire.

Cruise control SW, unplug the cruise control switch under dash by steering column, 4 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, 2 dk blu wires and a gry wire.

AC comp relay, unplug the AC comp relay (should be located on the firewall). It will have 5 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, a red wire and three more wires, probably dk grn.

Unplug the instrument cluster connector at the back of gauge panel. Yes, there is a pnk/blk wire in the connector.

With these items disconnected does the fuse still fail?
Hey Tim, Let's start from the beginning.
Are you saying that your truck worked perfectly and then one day for no apparent reason this problem just started?

Had there been other unrelated work done to the truck recently?

Does the truck start, run and drive with the ign/gauge fuse removed, excepting the devices on this circuit?

In your post #5 you said “There is a clear or white junction box at the bottom end of the steering column at center top”. That would be the ignition switch. Your photo in post #5 shows one of the ign switch connectors. There are four wires on the connector, the red wire comes from the battery (always powered) and supplies power to the ignition switch. The the pink wire (only has power when the ignition switch is in the run or start position) leaves the switch and powers the ignition coil and 3 fuses, (ign/gauge, turn/backup and ecm1).The ign/gauges fuse output wire has a pink wire with a black stripe (pnk/blk).

Let's assume that everything on your truck is working properly except the ign/gauges fuse and do a basic checking of the obvious things first.

Alternator, unplug the connector with two wires, a pnk/blk wire and a brown wire.

Cruise control SW, unplug the cruise control switch under dash by steering column, 4 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, 2 dk blu wires and a gry wire.

AC comp relay, unplug the AC comp relay (should be located on the firewall). It will have 5 wire connector with a pnk/blk wire, a red wire and three more wires, probably dk grn.

Unplug the instrument cluster connector at the back of gauge panel. Yes, there is a pnk/blk wire in the connector.

With these items disconnected does the fuse still fail?
Hi Scott, I'm not sure but I think I've found the culprit. The Tail LPS fuse box is missing a plug for the leg on the fuse. There is a hole where the plug should be & the plastic has melted on the fuse box. Sorry about the pic, my camera ain't no good. But any way do you have a suggestion on what I can do. There is nothing on the left side for the fuse to connect to. Also the right rear bulb wasn't blown but it has gotten hot. They are the Sylvania blue & the blue is peeling off the right rear bulb. I will just have to chase down the short, do the TAIL LPS have a relay or something I can unplug that will help me figure out if that is the only circuit that is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time Scott. If I owe you anything just let me know Automotive lighting Circuit component Automotive tire Computer hardware Motor vehicle
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That fuse panel does look bad. So are the metal connecting tabs burnt off also?

You could pull the front of the fuse panel away and look at the back side wiring. If I remember correctly there are two screws located under the hood holding the assembly together. There may also be two connecting tabs under the dash.

The burnt fuse powers the tail lights, radio and digital inst cluster if your truck has one. Anyway, the tail lamp power leaves the fuse and goes directly to the light switch.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That fuse panel does look bad. So are the metal connecting tabs burnt off also?

You could pull the front of the fuse panel away and look at the back side wiring. If I remember correctly there are two screws located under the hood holding the assembly together. There may also be two connecting tabs under the dash.

The burnt fuse powers the tail lights, radio and digital inst cluster if your truck has one. Anyway, the tail lamp power leaves the fuse and goes directly to the light switch. View attachment 369187
Hi Scott, I have a heck of a mess. Someone in the past has rewired parts of the fuse panel. Ok I'll try to explain best I can. First the slot in the Tail LPS that is missing the tab on the left leg of where the fuse goes, there is nothing there at all. There is no loose wire & no tab or pin that would connect the left leg of the fuse. Then there are 4 red wires connected together, this is where the rewiring starts ( I think). One red wire goes to the firewall fuse box, 1 to the light switch, 1 to the left leg of the TCCM, 1 comes off then then splits 1 wire goes to right leg of the tail lps, the other splits off & goes to the right leg of the DPL I think, I can't make it out but it's the fuse slot right above the fuse puller (10 AMP Fuse). Like I've said I've had the truck 2 years & everything has worked just like it should until 2 weeks ago. Do you understand the rewiring? If so would you have a suggestion why it was done this way? Also do you have a suggestion of what I should do to fix the problem? Thank you for your time Scott, I'm completely lost & don't understand how this rewiring works. Also the IGN/GAU has a PK/Black stripe wire that connects to a 5 pin bar that is on the left leg of the fuse, the right leg of the fuse connects to a 3 pin bar that connects to the TURN/BU, ECM1, & IGN/GAU. The PINK/ Black stripe wire has melted, but nothing else that I can find. Do you know if the rewiring caused this? I hate to keep bothering you but, you have been the only one that has helped me understand some of the wiring & I'm grateful for that.
 

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First the slot in the Tail LPS that is missing the tab on the left leg of where the fuse goes, there is nothing there at all. There is no loose wire & no tab or pin that would connect the left leg of the fuse.
You need to find the missing wire which will be orange (ORG) and it will probably have the melted end of the fuse connection still attached. It would be close to the fuse panel.

After finding this orange wire you should take a fused jumper wire and apply voltage to the orange wire and check if there is a short on it.

On fixing the fuse block a new brass fuse connector is needed. Is there any plastic structure to hold it? Maybe there is an unused brass connector in the block that you could re-purpose.


Then there are 4 red wires connected together, this is where the rewiring starts ( I think).
This multi-wire connection point is probably the factory wiring. Is there an obvious defect in this connections? Some of the factory wiring was not very attractive but it did the job.

The PINK/ Black stripe wire has melted, but nothing else that I can find.
This wire will need to be repaired and how to do this depends on your wiring skills. Can you duplicate factory wire crimps? Maybe you could solder in a new wire. How are your soldering skills?

Keep in mind that these melted wires may be the problem or maybe they are a result of an electrical problem somewhere else. You just need to take it one step at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
First the slot in the Tail LPS that is missing the tab on the left leg of where the fuse goes, there is nothing there at all. There is no loose wire & no tab or pin that would connect the left leg of the fuse.
You need to find the missing wire which will be orange (ORG) and it will probably have the melted end of the fuse connection still attached. It would be close to the fuse panel.

After finding this orange wire you should take a fused jumper wire and apply voltage to the orange wire and check if there is a short on it.

On fixing the fuse block a new brass fuse connector is needed. Is there any plastic structure to hold it? Maybe there is an unused brass connector in the block that you could re-purpose.


Then there are 4 red wires connected together, this is where the rewiring starts ( I think).
This multi-wire connection point is probably the factory wiring. Is there an obvious defect in this connections? Some of the factory wiring was not very attractive but it did the job.

The PINK/ Black stripe wire has melted, but nothing else that I can find.
This wire will need to be repaired and how to do this depends on your wiring skills. Can you duplicate factory wire crimps? Maybe you could solder in a new wire. How are your soldering skills?

Keep in mind that these melted wires may be the problem or maybe they are a result of an electrical problem somewhere else. You just need to take it one step at a time.
According to the drawing you sent me in #25 the orange wire would run to the light switch. I'm including a hand drawing of how the red wires connect. I hope this helps you understand what is going on, because the wire going to the light switch is one of the red wires tied together. There is no orange wire that is not connected, there is no loose wire of any kind. The red wires that are connected together are factory, but I'm not sure all red wires connected are from the factory. The puzzling thing to me is that the tail lights worked, but the slot that is empty had to be that way because there is no loose wire, no melted wire & no brass tab to be found. I can solder so I should be able to fix the melted wire. I'm just confused about the wiring. If there is anything I can do to help please let me know. I hope this helps you to be able to help me. Don't laugh at my primitive drawing...LOL
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“because the wire going to the light switch is one of the red wires tied together”
The headlight switch is two switches built into one, A red wire does go to the headlight switch sectionand it powers the headlights. The orange wire also goes to to the switch and it powers the tail lights, see drawing.
Does your headlight switch have four wires, red, yellow, orange and brown?
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
“because the wire going to the light switch is one of the red wires tied together”
The headlight switch is two switches built into one, A red wire does go to the headlight switch sectionand it powers the headlights. The orange wire also goes to to the switch and it powers the tail lights, see drawing.
Does your headlight switch have four wires, red, yellow, orange and brown?
View attachment 369278 View attachment 369279
I think I might be getting some where now thanks to you. This is what someone did to the wiring. I went & looked at the switch & it has 2 red, 1 brown & a yellow wire so I chased down the 2 red wires. 1 went to the junction block & the other went to the left leg of the DRL. So what they have done is taken the DRL fuse & turned it into the Tail LPS. But for what ever reason these wires have gotten hot because the wires are discolored. Now these wires have nothing to do with the IGN/GAU fuse (right)? If not then I'm right back to where I started. Also should I put a 20amp fuse in the DRL because it has a 10amp fuse in it. I truly do appreciate all the time & help you've given me. I hope all this ties together, which made the original problem. If there is anything I can do to repay your help just let me know.
 

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Just to double check, your truck is a 1992.
Do you have a digital instrument cluster?
Apparently, your S-10 has daylight running lamps! I've never seen a first gen S-10 with DRL. My 1992 S-10 wiring diagram does not mention DRL = daytime running lights anywhere at all.


"So what they have done is taken the DRL fuse & turned it into the Tail LPS."
"Now these wires have nothing to do with the IGN/GAU fuse (right)?"
I don't know very much about the DLR system but I have an electronic circuit diagram for a 1995 S-10 that does show a DRL circuit. Maybe the circuits are similar although the wire colors differ slightly. The DRL fuse and the Gauges fuse both go to a daylight running lamps relay located in the convenience center so there is a common point for both fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Just to double check, your truck is a 1992.
Do you have a digital instrument cluster?
Apparently, your S-10 has daylight running lamps! I've never seen a first gen S-10 with DRL. My 1992 S-10 wiring diagram does not mention DRL = daytime running lights anywhere

Just to double check, your truck is a 1992.
Do you have a digital instrument cluster?
Apparently, your S-10 has daylight running lamps! I've never seen a first gen S-10 with DRL. My 1992 S-10 wiring diagram does not mention DRL = daytime running lights anywhere at all.


"So what they have done is taken the DRL fuse & turned it into the Tail LPS."
"Now these wires have nothing to do with the IGN/GAU fuse (right)?"
I don't know very much about the DLR system but I have an electronic circuit diagram for a 1995 S-10 that does show a DRL circuit. Maybe the circuits are similar although the wire colors differ slightly. The DRL fuse and the Gauges fuse both go to a daylight running lamps relay located in the convenience center so there is a common point for both fuses.
Yes it is a 92 & it is a analog instrument cluster, not a digital. I don't think it had DRL'S. Let me ask this. Could the truck came with this fuse panel, but the DRL was left empty because the fuse panel was used in other applications? Then who ever, rewired turning the DRL empty slot into the Tail LPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes it's a 92 & it is a analog instrument cluster, not a digital. I don't think it had DRL's. I found a drawing of the fuse panel at Auto Zone & the drawing had the DRL slot. I think that the fuse panel was used in other vehicles & the slot was left empty. The brass connectors on each side of the fuse are single connectors, they share no power or leads with any other fuse. The red wire & the suppose to be orange wire are both single connectors. Do the wires that run to the Tail LPS split somewhere between the fuse & the tail lights, or do they just go straight to the tail lights? The reason I'm asking is if the wires go straight to the rear it should be easier to look for shorts, & burnt or melted wire. Thanks for helping me to understand the wiring system much better than I did when I started this journey. But it's still a headache!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I've repaired the wires & it is still blowing the fuse. Here are 3 pictures of the back of the fuse panel. I honestly don't know what else to do.
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On the IGN?GAUGE fuse, one side will be hot at all times (pink wire) when the ignition switch is in the run position, even when the fuse is blown. The other side of the fuse connects to the copper buss bar. There will be other PNK?BLK wires attached to the buss bar going out to power the components. These PNK?BLK wires should split up, some going out to the engine compartment and some going to components inside the cab. It would be beneficial to know if the problem is inside the cab or outside.

On the photo of the burnt PNK?BLK wire, I see the burnt wire connecting the two brass buss bars and I think that I see the pink wire supplying power on the other side of the fuse but I don't see any PNK/BLK wires leaving the buss bar to power the circuit. Can you confirm that there are PNK/BLK wires connected to the buss bar, on the front or back of the fuse panel and how many there are?

Can you follow the PNK/BLK wires from the fuse panel outwards? It should have a branch or two going to components inside the cab plus branches going out from the cab.

Under the hood can you see the PNK/BLK wire leaving the bulkhead connector by the steering column? Then can you see the wiring loom that it goes into? It probably runs up over the engine by the bell-housing with a branch going to the alternator and other branches going elsewhere? Look for pinched or melted plastic sleeving or anything else unusual.

Does the tail light fuse blow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
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I will try to explain the best I can. First picture is the PK/BK wire that melted & is on the left leg of a 5 pin Bus Bar & being the only wire on that circuit. The Bus Bar starts at the top of the fuse panel, with the 5th (last) leg of the Bus Bar on the IGN/GAU fuse. The wire runs to a pigtail that 3 wires go towards the dash & 1 wire that goes to the bulkhead. 2nd picture is a PK/BK wire that is on the EMC1 fuse's left leg of a single bus bar & runs to the bulkhead & the right leg of the fuse is on a 3 pin bus bar that connect the EMC1, Turn/BU, & IGN/GAU with the pink wire, I guess from the IGN switch. 3rd picture is the 2 wires coming out of the bulkhead, my problem is that cold weather is making the wiring very stiff so it hard to track them down because there is no flex in the wires. If I knew where they go to it might help me find the short. Also the tail light fuse does not blow the only fuse that blows is the IGN/GAU, & this is how it has been wired up for the past 2 years & has run great. Thanks again Scott, this mess has been a nightmare
 

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Inside of the truck the PNL/BLK goes to the cruise control, gauges and 4x4 indicator.

Is your truck equipped with TCCM (transfer case control module) or without? Without TCCM you would have a 4-position selector switch for 2 wheel, 4 high, neutral and 4 low. With TCCM there would be a two position selector.

If it does NOT have TCCM then the 4WD indicator system and the front axle switch are both powered by the IGN/GAUGE fuse. I think that the front axle switch is located on the front differential and you should check this wiring also..

Since you have the Z Code engine, under the hood, the PNK?BLK wire goes to the Alternator and heated oxygen sensor.

Do you have factory gauge cluster?
Do you have 4 wheel anti-lock brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
The truck has the TCCM I have the 2 selector switch. Inside the truck everything is disconnected except the cruise control. That is the only thing I have not taken off is the steering wheel. Should I take the steering wheel off or would it matter? Also the H O sensor is new to me no one has mentioned it before. Where would it be located? I will try to look it up but sometimes it is hard to find locations of some parts. It is the factory analog gauge cluster. I'm not sure about the anti lock brakes but it does have a box with wires located in front of the brake booster under the hood that has something to do with the brakes. Also I've seen books for a 92 S10 that are only about the wiring for around $30-$40. Do you think this book would be worth getting or not? I trust your advise & Thanks again. Also I unplugged every wire going to the ECM & it still blows the fuse. Does this help narrow down what it could be or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The truck has the TCCM I have the 2 selector switch. Inside the truck everything is disconnected except the cruise control. That is the only thing I have not taken off is the steering wheel. Should I take the steering wheel off or would it matter? Also the H O sensor is new to me no one has mentioned it before. Where would it be located? I will try to look it up but sometimes it is hard to find locations of some parts. It is the factory analog gauge cluster. I'm not sure about the anti lock brakes but it does have a box with wires located in front of the brake booster under the hood that has something to do with the brakes. Also I've seen books for a 92 S10 that are only about the wiring for around $30-$40. Do you think this book would be worth getting or not? I trust your advise & Thanks again. Also I unplugged every wire going to the ECM & it still blows the fuse. Does this help narrow down what it could be or not?
I feel like a big dummy, but the H O sensor I've always known as the O2 sensor. It's possible that you might heading in the right direction( I hope so). Ok not long after I got the truck I had dual exhaust put on. So it's pushing 2 years ago. I'm not sure where the O2 sensor is located at on my truck, but I just got through crawling under it & I can't find the sensor Or any wire that would of went to it. If I knew the location of the O2 sensor I might be able to locate the wire to see if that is the problem. I'm guessing that they either cut the plug off or crammed it somewhere. The old pipes are cut off about a foot below the manifolds on each side. Don't know if the O2 sensor is before or after where the pipes are cut off. I'm praying this this helps to figure something out!!!
 
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