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Discussion Starter #1
OK, guys. I need to replace the heater core on my little truck. It's a 92 reg-cab pickup with a/c and the 2.8L .

Where are all the screws to remove the dash? I bought a GM repair manual for the 92 s-series trucks and IT doesn't even show where they are. It just says "Remove dash".

If ANYONE can tell me how many there are and where they are, I'd be VERY grateful.

By the way, living in Phoenix I don't NEED a heater except for 3 days out of the year, so it's not like I NEED to fix it. I'm just one of those people who hates having something not working, you know?

One other thought ... if anyone is SELLING a new or like-new dash (preferrably light grey) please let me know. I'd be VERY interested.

Thanks alot!

CJ
 

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Not a fun task!

I'm sorry to hear that you need to replace the h/core! I did mine last summer and it was an absolute ******* to fix! All I can remember from that even was having to loosen the lower dash mounting bolts, pulling out the computer, cutting a small hole in the back of th glovebox and fighting to get the plastic housing out, which took two people to do. It's probably easier to remove the dash altogether, though it will take longer. It took me two afternoons to do that job, and it still leaked a little when I was done!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
crap

Well, that wasn't really what I wanted to hear, but thanks anyway. Right now I just have the hoses disconnected, so it's not like it's leaking any more, it's just a nuisance thing for when I OCCASIONALLY would need it.

Thanks for the reply.


Is there anywhere else to buy replacement dashboards instead of the manufacturer? Anybody?
 

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If it is anything like the sy/ty heater core replacement, this should help. These are not my directions, just ones I've used before
HTH
Heater Core Replacement

1) Drain radiator: Place a large (wide) pan under the pet**** area of the truck. Undo the wingnut that holds the air box on. lift it up and move it out of the way. Undo the pet**** and let drain. For faster draining, undo the radiator cap. When fully drained, tighten pet**** and put the airbox back in place. If you spill any coolant, invite the neighborhood cat to come lick it up *NOTE* For those that think this is "tasteless", this is an optional step and not required for the completion of the heater core change so please substitute any little small yappy dog like a poodle or a min-pin for the cat.

2) Remove heater hoses: To aid in heater hose removal, I have found it quick and easy to remove the coolant overflow tank (3 - 10 mm bolts) and lay it on the motor. Using a large pair of pliers, move the clamp bands used to hold the heater hose to the heater core (from now on referred to as "FHC". If you dont know what the "F" is for, you will when you are done changing the FHC) a few inches down the heater hose. Pull, yank, twist, and pry on the hoses.... Yell, swear, and cry.... When they dont come off and you are ready to say "SCREW IT" and cut the hoses without regard for the price of the formed hose, STOP!!! Use a pair of channel locks to squash the area where the heater hose attaches to the FHC (remember..... its leaking, there is no core charge, and you are throwing it away) and they will slip right off. While you are there, you might as well remove the FHC tube support(1-7 mm hex screw). Its the "W" shaped thing that keeps the FHC tubes from flexing and breaking under the incredible torque of the motor

3) Gut the interior: First and most important... REMOVE THE LIGHT BULB FROM PASSENGER SIDE FOOTWELL. If you dont know why, leave it in..... and when you burn the snot out of your arm, email me so I can say "I told you so". Remove passenger side footwell trim panel (7 - 9/32" hex screws). remove the passenger side kick panel (4 - phillips screws) to free up access to the ECM, remove ECM (1 - 9/32" hex screw), unplug, and put in a safe place, remove radio trim panel (3 - phillips screws), remove radio, remove access panel at the back of the glovebox, and remove the passenger side bolt that holds the dash on (1 - 10 mm hex bolt), its just under the dash all the way to the right, now pull the bottom of the dash out and down, hooking it on the tab that the bolt went through. The dash should come out about an inch. this will aid in removing the FHC cover.

4) Remove the FHC cover: There are 6 - 1/4" (or could be 7mm) hex screws holding the cover on. Four of them you can can get to easily from the under the dash. The top right one you have to get out through the access panel in the glovebox. The top left one you can get out through the hole where the radio was. Now disconnect the heater vent hoses that attach to the top of the FHC cover. From under the dash, pull the right side of the FHC cover out towards the rear of the truck, then start pulling the cover to the right to disengage it from the rest of the ducting. There is some sticky backed weather stripping on the cover that you have to cut at the top and bottom of the cover in order to get the cover out. Rotate the cover so the bottom goes towards the fire wall and the top towards the back of the truck. You may have to pull the "T" shaped duct out of the cover too. Try to be patient.... it will come out. Dont force it, it will break.

5) Remove the FHC: Remove the left side hold down strap (2 - 1/4" hex screws) and remove only the bottom side on the right hold down strap. Bend the right strap up and pull the FHC out. Try not to dump coolant on the floor when you do this (if your new FHC came with tube covers put those on the old FHC before removing it).

OK. Half way through. Now reverse the steps and you are ready to enjoy coolant-odor free acceleration.

But first here are some tips for the install

1) Before trying to install new FHC, make sure it is EXACTLY like the old one. When I changed the one on my Ty ($30.00 from Trak Auto) it went right in. When I changed the one on my Sy, the new one from Trak was too tall and the second one from Lee Auto Parts was too wide, so I bought a GM one for $52.95.

2) Transfer the foam insulation from the old FHC to the new core.

3) Put the rubber caps on the new FHC before installing. This will keep insulation from entering the tubes when you install it.

4) Gently bend the tubes on the new FHC together to make it easier to get it through the fire wall.

I never had to clean my carpet so I cant answer any Qs about that but I hope all this helps.

Have fun

Thanx to all those that have contributed to formulation of the FHC removal steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ummmm .... WOW.

:uhoh:

Tell me you read that from somewhere and didn't just post it off the top of your head.

THANKS! That sounds like it should help alot. Though I still don't look forward to the job, at least now I have a plan of attack to start with.

Still would be nice to completely replace the dash (since it's cracked already) too, while I'm at it. Instead of having to do it all over again later.

Then again, I may just sell it this summer. Who knows.

Thanks again for ALL THE GREAT INFO. Really
 

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Yep, Pulled it off anothers website
I'm a plagerist(sp)
Don't think he'll mind though :)
 

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I had to replace the heater core in my 93 S-10, its a biotch, but didn't take much time. Putting everything back was the worst...
 
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