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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, (<-Clear Indication this is going to be a long Post)
This is my first and possibly only post here. I am normally a "Lurking Sponge" but finally think I have something worthy of sharing. I am posting to this discussion even though it is quite old, since it is the most relevant to my situation and topic. I trust that if this post is in the wrong location or violates the forum rules an Admin or Uber will move or delete it as necessary.

Pertinent facts:
94 Chevy S10 Blazer
4 Door
I am the second owner since new.
It did NOT have a hitch or towing package/wiring installed.

I selected the Curt 13021 Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2-Inch Receiver Hitch, and even though it says Drilling Required, it only required the removal of the bumper and bumper brackets along with a gallon on PB Breaks and some requisite busted knuckles.

Here is the disclaimer.
*This information is presented and intended to serve only as a reminder, for my own personal historical reference.
*This information is being presented simply as a historical record of how I wired a 4 wire trailer light connector on My vehicle.
*This historical reference information may not be applicable to any other vehicle.
*This is not a manual, tutorial, recommendation, how-to guide, recipe, or Sherpa doc.
*I am not a certified anything - yet,
*I am NOT currently a professional auto mechanic.
*I make no warranty as to the accuracy or efficacy of the material I am posting for my own personal historical reference.
*I highly encourage you NOT TO FOLLOW the information presented here, for my own personal historical reference.
*I am in NO WAY responsible or liable for any damage you or your buds do to your vehicle or theirs, due to following the information I am presenting here for my own personal historical reference.
*I DO recommend you take your vehicle to a trained, professional, and certified mechanic, to have any work done, resembling the work presented here for my own personal historical reference.

CAUTION AND WARNING: Messing with your vehicles wiring in any way can potentially damage the wiring, the computer, the battery, and possibly cause your vehicle to catch on FIRE, any and all of which can render your vehicle inoperable and possibly irreparable. (Unfortunately that is a necessary "Duh" statement)

Like so many others who have a similar vehicle and want to install a 4 wire trailer harness, I searched the Manuals, the Web, and even talked to some mechanic friends, all to no avail. So I endeavored to do this, as Frank Sinatra Sang, “My Way.”

There is a wiring harness that runs across the back of the S10 under the plastic trim strip that finishes out the bed carpeting at the very rear of the vehicle.


However, since this also contains the wiring for the fuel pump and I did not want to risk fowling the fuel pump wiring, I opted to go another route. I decided to move my wiring connections out to the bulb and lens assembly as close to the bulbs as practical so I could clearly see the wires, and with a high degree of certainty, know which wires were used for what purpose, and attach to them at that location. <Insert Gripes Here> I am sure there are those who will have all manner of gripes about this location, but I would refer them to my Disclaimer and the fact that I mentioned this was my own personal historical reference and not meant to be followed by anyone else, in other words - I Did it My Way.

1) Started by grabbing all the tools, parts, and accessories I thought I would need.


2) I removed both tail light assemblies to gain access to the bulb wiring harness


3) Removed the spare tire jack access cover and jack to access the small hole where the new wiring will be run to the tail light assembly.


4) Removed the screws holding the plastic trim pieces around the rear opening so the panels can be manipulated to allow for the running of the new wire. Had to pop the passenger side lower cargo windows trim piece up and in toward the cabin to access the same hole for running the wire to the passenger side tail light assembly. No Pics.

5) Removed and cut the rubber tail light wiring grommet to facilitate the running of the additional new wires. (Hated to have to do this, but I was able to repair and replaced them later)


6) Ran my very pricey White Cloths Hanger -wire puller through the holes on the driver and passenger side to the wiring access hole formerly filled by the wiring grommet.


7) Connected my wires according to the wiring diagram on both the 4 wire connector and the vehicles wiring diagram using Scotch Lock Quick Splice Connectors for 18-14AWG and some Dielectric grease in each connector.


NOTE: I used 14 gauge wire since that was the only size I had in colors that matched the vehicle wiring. However, I believe the existing vehicle wiring is 16 or 18 gauge. Going from Smaller to Larger wiring is not an issue. The reverse in the wrong location can cause faults and even FIRES – quote from the voice of experience.

8) Taped each wire bundle and, YES, labeled each new connection wire . Yea, I am “AR” in that way.

NOTE: I took the time on the passenger side to run two additional black (Ground) and Brown (Power - Lights On) wires for future use. I will have them tucked behind the passenger side rear panel, with ends capped, taped and labeled so either me or a future owner, or the junk yard will know what they were for.

9) Wrapped my taillight wiring grommets with the new wires inside and reinserted them. (See the Collection of Pics below since I was limited to 10 images)

10) Next drilled the rear plastic trim threshold and plastic riveted some plastic wire loom/wrap material to it in order to run the connector wires through for external access and protection. (See the Collection of Pics below)

This was not my first choice of how I wanted to run this external to the vehicle, but it did alleviate the need to drill the body and potentially damage the fuel pump or tag light power wires as found in the hole at the wiring T in the rear wire track, or create yet one more rust spot starter location on the body. This vintage GM had terrible rust preventative.

11) Soldered, heat shrink wrapped and cable wrapped my connector and new body wires. Then tested the lights with some temporary magnetic trailer lights. (Spared you the Pic)

12) Reassembled and installed the taillight fixtures (took this opportunity for a little PM and replace all the bulbs). (Again spared you the Pics)

13) Cleaned up and final pics of the new trailer lighting connector. I can run it through the bottom of the tailgate and behind the bumper to the hitch with plenty of slack and then tuck it inside the vehicle when I am not using it. I am very pleased with the outcome.



Premium Member
1,682 Posts
Nice write up! I will note that if you end up having some problems later down the road, check those scotch locks. They are terrible for getting corrosion and causing wiring problems.
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