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Most u-joint flanges I've seen that have clamps also have a little bulge at the outside of the bore to prevent the bearing cup from walking out of the hole.
Your photo doesn't look like it has these bumps so I'd guess the clips are necessary in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Most u-joint flanges I've seen that have clamps also have a little bulge at the outside of the bore to prevent the bearing cup from walking out of the hole.
Your photo doesn't look like it has these bumps so I'd guess the clips are necessary in this case.
I think you’re correct and didn’t even cross my mind when installing them. I just picked up a new u joint kit and will be installing the c clips on all 4 ends this time. Definitely a humbling experience. Thanks to you and Mad Max for the light bulb moment.
 

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Boozebag
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Dood, That's what this forum is for. I can't tell you how many dumbazz mistakes I've made over the years.
Oh, and STILL making them :unsure:
Quote "It's how you learn"

You know how lucky you are? You didn't wipe out any driveshaft parts or rear end yolk...
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Dood, That's what this forum is for. I can't tell you how many dumbazz mistakes I've made over the years.
Oh, and STILL making them :unsure:
Quote "It's how you learn"

You know how lucky you are? You didn't wipe out any driveshaft parts or rear end yolk...
Yeah, I got over immediately when it started making noises. I was already on alert because it was the first I’d had it on the highway since I’d fixed everything and was the maiden voyage for the new wheel/tire setup. So I was already reserving a spot on that right hand shoulder “just in case” LOL

But yes, I’m thankful it wasn’t worse. She’ll be back on the road tomorrow if weather holds out. Didn’t have time to throw the new u joint back in today.
 

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Neighbor of mine had a local shop replace one of injected plastic retained u-joints with a new one and since the original didn't have clips on it the "mechanic" didn't see any need to put them on the new one. He figured since he pressed them in they would be good to go. Fortunately it didn't chew up the driveshaft to bad in the 1 mile it took for them to come out.
After "Knurling" the holes with 1000 center punch dimples I was able to save his driveshaft. Since I wasn't 100% sure that the cups were super tight I put the 2 inside snap rings in just to be sure they'd stay in place. Like "pro" should have done in the first place.
My neighbor doesn't go to that shop any more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
New u joint in place (all 4 c clips in place LOL) and I replaced the straps, as well. Almost there. I just need to get the bolts another turn or two tighter on the straps. I need to get the rear end in the air to get more leverage and get them as tight as they should be. Should be back on the road probably by end of day tomorrow as I'm not sure I'll have time to mess with it today.
 

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Don't want to over torque the strap bolts. IIRC the spec is around 15-20 ft/lbs, but I've always used goodntight as the spec. You can better feel when the bolt is done turning than a torque wrench can. I've broken more bolts with a torque wrench than w/o one.
I've found an 11mm will fit the heads tighter than a 7/16''. It's a few thou smaller. Really helps getting rusty ones off w/o round cornering them or if you already round cornered them with a 7/16.

Blue locktite is good insurance and will also prevent rust inside the yoke threads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Don't want to over torque the strap bolts. IIRC the spec is around 15-20 ft/lbs, but I've always used goodntight as the spec. You can better feel when the bolt is done turning than a torque wrench can.
I've broken more bolts with a torque wrench than w/o one.
Blue locktite is good insurance and will also prevent rust inside the yoke threads.
Yeah, that's what I'm shooting for. As it sits right this minute, the straps are not tight/secure against the yolk on the differential like they should be. I think it's a result of new bolts going into holes with 32 years of corrosion. I got one strap nice and tight (aka "goodntight") but the other strap literally needs another full turn or turn and a half on each bolt before it gets "goodntight" :) Literally doing this laying on my back in my driveway (with nice winter temps and precip to go along with it LOL) so getting the necessary leverage is not the easiest but we'll get it. Either tonight or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Ordered a kit to convert the truck to use hood struts vs the hood prop. No real reason other than "just cuz" and seemed like a cool upgrade. Got the kit off eBay. Company looks to be Motocam. Seems to be a pretty solid kit.

347025
 

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You'll love them. I have them on 2 trucks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Got these off ebay and just arrived today :) I try and get these for every vehicle I buy. Very handy to have

347052
 

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Boozebag
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^^^ The Motocam guy was on this forum a while back. I bought one of his early kits.
Nice stuff

Hopefully, you won't need the wiring diagrams for any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
^^^ The Motocam guy was on this forum a while back. I bought one of his early kits.
Nice stuff

Hopefully, you won't need the wiring diagrams for any problems.
Hopefully not but coming as a package I figured I might as well grab it :) I originally went searching for just the Service Manual but couldn't pass up just grabbing all 3 manuals. Like you said, hopefully it just sits on the shelf and collects dust LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Welp, put about 150 miles on her over the weekend and I think that all the repairs I’ve done so far are good to go so time to move on to the next round. I think the next steps are steering and brakes that I’m going to hit. Floors/front body mounts and door hinge pins will be done within the next week or two then it’ll be steering and brakes.

There seems to be excess play in the steering. I know for sure that the tie rods need done so I’ll probably do idler arm while I’m there. Contemplating steering box and pitman, too, as I’m betting they’re original. Steering boxes tend to be a pain in the butt, tho, so I’m not all that eager to do that one lol

I’m also tossing around doing ball joints at the same time I do brakes and will probably just do upper and lower arms with the ball joints already in them. Again because what’s there seems to be original from 89.

I’ll be looking on belltech’s site tonight to see what they have that might make sense with this phase and also doing a mild drop at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Before you blow any pesos - read this!
Factory Parts to Improve Your First and Second Gen S10
You will see the biggest improvement using GM factory parts for cheap.
I've done these mods to 4 of my trux.
The Voodoo rig is crazy ('90) short box single cab. It handles like an early Vette.
Good looking out! I wasn’t really finding what I wanted in the aftermarket so I’ll definitely check that link out
 

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time to get cereal
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The pitman arm is a non-wear item, no need to replace unless it was damaged somehow.
 

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time to get cereal
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I've only had to remove one fortunately. Impact on the puller + torch + BFH and it was still a bear.
 
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