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Boozebag
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Pants, I think I told you that I lived in Massachusetts for a long time. I know New England weather too well. I spent many soggy and cold days on my back. Snow is always fun...
I feel for you and Dime.
It took a long time, but I finally graduated to a real shop. Too bad I'm (almost) never there.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
A lot of work done today....

new flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing...
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trans back in with new cross over pipe and starter

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also new u joints

got it all back together and things are better but definitely needs MORE bleeding. Slave is already new but I’m going to replace the clutch master too then I KNOW it’s all new and I should be back on the road at that point. Cannot wait for this truck to be back on the ground lol
 

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Boozebag
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9,433 Posts
Just a quick note...
Rock Auto sells a complete pre bled master/slave assembly - comes in a pretty big box. I think they're about $55. I've bought several of them.
No muss/fuss. Just bolt in and go.
Since you are replacing the master also, may I suggest that you pull the slave/line and bench bleed the pair?
It will save you a bunch of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Just a quick note...
Rock Auto sells a complete pre bled master/slave assembly - comes in a pretty big box. I think they're about $55. I've bought several of them.
No muss/fuss. Just bolt in and go.
Since you are replacing the master also, may I suggest that you pull the slave/line and bench bleed the pair?
It will save you a bunch of time.
Yeah, bench bleeding was definitely the plan but I wasn’t aware of the pre bled assembly! I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Been there Done it
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Those kits are kind of hit and miss. Not available for all S10's
I just did some searching on Rockautos site. There are S10 pre bled kits for sale, but didn't see any for an 89 2.5.
Seems 92-95 are plentiful, but use a different slave.
 
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Discussion Starter #49
Those kits are kind of hit and miss. Not available for all S10's
I just did some searching on Rockautos site. There are S10 pre bled kits for sale, but didn't see any for an 89 2.5.
Seems 92-95 are plentiful, but use a different slave.
I was just getting ready to come on here and ask for a part number because I didn’t find a pre bled kit for my 89 2.5 either. I was hoping @Mad Max knew something I didn’t :)

in either event, I’ll be getting a clutch master and bench bleeding the whole thing with the slave cylinder before putting it back in so make it easier and hopefully more successful LOL
 

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Boozebag
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^^^Slayer - I have bought them for both the early and late. It seems to be the connecting line that's different. The later comes with a plastic line while the earlier is a stainless braided hose.
I don't remember exactly, it's been a bunch of years since I bought a set.
Maybe they have a pic of the assembly at Rock Auto?
Is there a listing for the slave alone? Maybe you can see the interchange?
 

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Bench bleeding isn't too bad. I did that for my 2.8 T5 when I replaced Master and/or Slave. I did them separately too haha because I found the second one leaking after fixing the first.

Take a trick from the Brake Master Cylinder hand book too: run a soft line from the slave bleeder back into the reservoir. Keep it submerged and pump away until no bubbles come out of the soft line.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
So, ripped out some carpet to get a full picture of the condition of the floors. Overall great but as expected very soft over the body mounts. Also replaced the weather stripping tonight and the O2 sensor.

Here’s a pretty nifty find. Found it under the carpet. It’s the paper that tells the assembly line what carpet to put in it :)

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Here’s pics of the floor. The passenger side is much more noticeableable in the pic but both sides are rotten. Pretty interesting because from the bottom the driver side is the one that looks the worst lol

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98'S10 LS
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A little trick to getting air out of the master is to just tickle the clutch pedal a few times,don't mash it all the way down. This fills the master chamber with fluid. Then get one of those boys to push the clutch pedal down while you open the bleeder.
Don't pump the pedal,it just foams the fluid and you'll never get the air out.
Mash pedal down
Open screw
Close screw
Let pedal up
Repeat until no more air spits out.
Keep a check on fluid level in reservoir,if it sucks air you have to start all over.
Many times I have just opened the bleeder screw and let gravity do its thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
GOOD NEWS!! Pulled the slave, master and reservoir out. Replaced the master (slave was already new). And bled the whole shebang outside of the truck. Installed it back in and we’re in business!! :) now on to more fun stuff LOL gonna take the kids out on a cruise in it tomorrow. It’ll be good to finally be able to drive it now
 

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Boozebag
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When you initially described the rust, I thought it was going to look like some of Flintstones rigs I've owned.
Overall, the floor looks pretty good and you can patch the passenger side. A MIG welder would help for that.
Congrats on the clutch! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #56
When you initially described the rust, I thought it was going to look like some of Flintstones rigs I've owned.
Overall, the floor looks pretty good and you can patch the passenger side. A MIG welder would help for that.
Congrats on the clutch! (y)
Agreed :) I can definitely handle the body mount and floor fixes. It shouldn’t be bad at all. Just a solid weekend of work and she’ll be good.

my goal is to have that done here in the next couple of weeks
 

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Do they use salt that far south?
 
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