[89dime_5speed]

Just picked this little guy up the other day for pretty cheap. End game is a truck for my kid's to beat around town in when they get to that age and learn how to drive a stick on.

General Specs: 2.5L 4 cyl, 5 speed, no options other than carpet, cloth seat and sliding rear window. The truck looks pretty mint at first glance but needs some attention including new floors

Issues that need addressed ASAP:
1. Clutch
2. Heater Core (part arrived and hope to install before Christmas)
3. Shocks all four corners (Rears completed last night. Fronts as soon as they arrive)
4. Hood release cable. I have to really do some magic to get that hood open

Other things that need attention but aren't as urgent are hinge pins, floor pans/body mounts,....

Anyhoot, wanted to share. I'll keep this thread updated as me and the kids tinker on her. Once I get her up to snuff I'll DD her for a while. Just want to make sure she's 100% mechanically before I have kids depending on it to get them places

The main issue with this truck at this point is the clutch. I've replaced the slave cylinder but it's still not right. I THINK that the slave got bled successfully but possible that there MIGHT be a small amount of air in it still. Long story short, the clutch will not fully engage so it's pretty hard to shift when moving unless you rev match it and when you go to start it the truck move forward (or back if you're in Reverse) while you turn over the starter. It's quite startling when you're not expecting that to happen and it happens to you for the first time LOL

Front body mount pics. Obviously need full replacement including floors in this area. It's pretty bad.

 

[bk2life]

these trucks are fun little toys, but for a first vehicle, yours looks too rusty to trust that frame in any type of an accident, and, I personally would get a civic or something similar due to the nearly 30 years in advance safety in case of any car accidents.

 

[89dime_5speed]

these trucks are fun little toys, but for a first vehicle, yours looks too rusty to trust that frame in any type of an accident, and, I personally would get a civic or something similar due to the nearly 30 years in advance safety in case of any car accidents.

The frame itself is actually very solid and not that much rust. The majority of the rust in this truck is what I have pictured where the front body mounts are on the cab. So I just need to replace the bushings, mounts and floor about the mounts and it'll be good to go. Next time I'm under the truck (probably tonight) I'll get another pic that gets a better overall view to show you the true condition.

 

[Mostizzle]

It's not that bad, I don't know what he's looking at. Definitely worth fixing up.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Just picked this little guy up the other day for pretty cheap. End game is a truck for my kid's to beat around town in when they get to that age and learn how to drive a stick on.

General Specs: 2.5L 4 cyl, 5 speed, no options other than carpet, cloth seat and sliding rear window. The truck looks pretty mint at first glance but needs some attention including new floors

Issues that need addressed ASAP:
1. Clutch
2. Heater Core (part arrived and hope to install before Christmas)
3. Shocks all four corners (Rears completed last night. Fronts as soon as they arrive)
4. Hood release cable. I have to really do some magic to get that hood open

Other things that need attention but aren't as urgent are hinge pins, floor pans/body mounts,....

Anyhoot, wanted to share. I'll keep this thread updated as me and the kids tinker on her. Once I get her up to snuff I'll DD her for a while. Just want to make sure she's 100% mechanically before I have kids depending on it to get them places

The main issue with this truck at this point is the clutch. I've replaced the slave cylinder but it's still not right. I THINK that the slave got bled successfully but possible that there MIGHT be a small amount of air in it still. Long story short, the clutch will not fully engage so it's pretty hard to shift when moving unless you rev match it and when you go to start it the truck move forward (or back if you're in Reverse) while you turn over the starter. It's quite startling when you're not expecting that to happen and it happens to you for the first time LOL

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Front body mount pics. Obviously need full replacement including floors in this area. It's pretty bad.
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View attachment 345869

Looks like an order to LMC is in your near and I do mean really near future. I believe they have what you need.

Steel Cab Repair Panels

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.

www.lmctruck.com

 

[Mostizzle]

I would shop anywhere before there as they are over priced and they sell a lot of the same junk aftermarket parts you would find on Ebay, but for more money. Don't get me wrong, it's cool that they're supporting the hobby. I'll shop there for weirdo parts that they carry and no one else does, there a few of those. Aside from that though, their prices and shipping prices blow.

I get all my sheetmetal from here...

Sherman™ | Body Parts, Lighting, Restoration & Repair Parts - CARiD.com

Sherman's well-deserved reputation for quality and value makes it a number one source for automotive body parts, panels, accessories, and other products.

www.carid.com

Just be sure to shop around whatever you do.

 

[89dime_5speed]

Looks like an order to LMC is in your near and I do mean really near future. I believe they have what you need.

Steel Cab Repair Panels

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.

www.lmctruck.com

They definitely do and an order is very imminent for sure. I'll have that order placed ASAP and I'll have them in place by the end of January is the goal. Should be a pretty straightforward job.

 

[89dime_5speed]

I would shop anywhere before there as they are over priced and they sell a lot of the same junk aftermarket parts you would find on Ebay, but for more money. Don't get me wrong, it's cool that they're supporting the hobby. I'll shop there for weirdo parts that they carry and no one else does, there a few of those. Aside from that though, their prices and shipping prices blow.

I get all my sheetmetal from here...

Sherman™ | Body Parts, Lighting, Restoration & Repair Parts - CARiD.com

Sherman's well-deserved reputation for quality and value makes it a number one source for automotive body parts, panels, accessories, and other products.

www.carid.com

Just be sure to shop around whatever you do.

I may give them a browse. A lot of times I default to LMC only because they are local to me and I can be inside their store within 30 minutes and skip the shipping costs (especially on oversized options). I have seen Sherman here and there, though. Do they produce a decent product? Aside from the body mounts and floors (which are are requirement) I also would like to score some bedsides but I have noticed that they are not the easiest to find. I can get them all day long at several places for my C10 but the S10 is a different story LOL

 

[Mostizzle]

Yeah, bedsides will be tough. You'll probably have better luck sourcing a whole donor bed for a few hundred bucks, or cut the parts off that you need from a upull yard. I'm a 2nd gen guy so I'm not sure of all the metal avaliable in the aftermarket for 1st gens. All the metal I've gotten from Sherman has been nice and thick and fits nicely.

You're local to LMC, I'll keep that in mind if I need anything. lol

 

[89dime_5speed]

Yeah, bedsides will be tough. You'll probably have better luck sourcing a whole donor bed for a few hundred bucks, or cut the parts off that you need from a upull yard. I'm a 2nd gen guy so I'm not sure of all the metal avaliable in the aftermarket for 1st gens. All the metal I've gotten from Sherman has been nice and thick and fits nicely.

You're local to LMC, I'll keep that in mind if I need anything. lol

Yep. What you’re saying is the same conclusions I’ve come to, also. repairing the bed will probably bubble up the priority list in a few months after I’ve handled some other things

I went ahead and ordered the floors pans, body mount panels and bushings from LMC. Should be here early next week and it’ll be top priority for January.

Until then, getting the clutch working, tune up completed and getting her licensed

 

[manbearpig]

It's got power brakes (and steering? can't see), those were options. Same with the dashboard vents. The base truck came with a blank dashboard.

 

[1stiski]

What state was this truck from ? I want to know how an underbody rusts that much without any outer body rust spots , especially in the typical S-10 places . The outside looks great for sure .. rust sucks . Looks to be worth the effort to get her on the road .

 

[oldeerslayer]

I bought a 125K 99 last year that has no rocker or cab corner rust. Bed sides and rear wheel wells are rock solid. From the Chicago area! But when I took the tail lights out everything behind them was rusty. Body mounts are solid but had to patch a couple places on the frame and the bottom of the firewall on passengers side.
Only thing I can figure is it was washed when it got salty, but the car wash didn't get water into the hard to reach places that the salt water will eventually find. If you think about it, you drive in the spray and slush for couple hours a day and then in 5 minutes think you can rinse it out of everywhere. Not.
But this is another truck that was good enough to be worth saving. Rare in the upper midwest.

 

[89dime_5speed]

What state was this truck from ? I want to know how an underbody rusts that much without any outer body rust spots , especially in the typical S-10 places . The outside looks great for sure .. rust sucks . Looks to be worth the effort to get her on the road .

This is a Missouri truck. The story I got from the seller is that a previous owner had put a paint job on the truck at some point so my bet is they did a slight makeover on the top side and completely negated the bottom side because I'm positive that those front body mount areas have been rotting for a while. I went ahead and purchased the truck because the frame overall is very solid as are the remainder of the floor pans so it should be a super straightforward repair and it's been caught before the thing gets too far gone.

 

[MyWorkInProgress]

I use C2C Fab for body panels, got a quarter for my old Blazer years back, good stuff.

Products

www.c2cfabrication.com

 

[Mad Max]

Truck is totally worth repairing.
I floored my 4x4, and painted the panel with chassis saver. The truck only saw a few days in winter, the floor rotted out and all was left was the chassis saver paint!!! At least it lasted for 10 years.

Hopefully, you won't have to do this on your back. Makes the job super boring.

BTW, it is a real b*tch to bleed the clutch hydro system. There are several ways to do it.
I have written several different ways, do a search.
The main issue is the bleeder is in the same place as the inlet hose connection. This leaves the rest of the cylinder full of air.
Pull the slave, tilt it with the inlet on the up side, open the bleeder, push the rod all the way into the housing, close bleeder and reinstall. Then pump the poo out of the clutch pedal.
Welcome back clutch...

 

[89dime_5speed]

I use C2C Fab for body panels, got a quarter for my old Blazer years back, good stuff.

Products

www.c2cfabrication.com

Nice! I did not know they existed. I've saved the link for future purchases. Thanks for the heads up on that

 

[89dime_5speed]

Truck is totally worth repairing.
I floored my 4x4, and painted the panel with chassis saver. The truck only saw a few days in winter, the floor rotted out and all was left was the chassis saver paint!!! At least it lasted for 10 years.

Hopefully, you won't have to do this on your back. Makes the job super boring.

BTW, it is a real b*tch to bleed the clutch hydro system. There are several ways to do it.
I have written several different ways, do a search.
The main issue is the bleeder is in the same place as the inlet hose connection. This leaves the rest of the cylinder full of air.
Pull the slave, tilt it with the inlet on the up side, open the bleeder, push the rod all the way into the housing, close bleeder and reinstall. Then pump the poo out of the clutch pedal.
Welcome back clutch...

Nice! I'll be sure and give this a try. Our next crack at this is actually this afternoon. I'd done tons of searches to figure out what we were doing wrong (2 person job) and to no one's surprise you search and get about 1,000,015 results back LOL So you just click the top few that may have variances and try all of them to see which one gets you where you need to go. Like you said, bleeding this thing is a PITA! Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure and keep you updated on the results here in a few hours.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Nice! I'll be sure and give this a try. Our next crack at this is actually this afternoon. I'd done tons of searches to figure out what we were doing wrong (2 person job) and to no one's surprise you search and get about 1,000,015 results back LOL So you just click the top few that may have variances and try all of them to see which one gets you where you need to go. Like you said, bleeding this thing is a PITA! Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure and keep you updated on the results here in a few hours.

Have you tried narrowing the search field by choosing a specific section of the forum, dates search?

 

[89dime_5speed]

Have you tried narrowing the search field by choosing a specific section of the forum, dates search?

In the effort of being fully honest. My searches on this issue before today have purely been via the Google machine. The reason for this is because I just became active on this forum a few days ago and had actually forgotten that I'd made this account back in 2013 #facepalm . With that, all other forums I'm on the search function is completely broken (even those owned and operated by Virtual Scope) so I'd made the same assumption about this forum, as well. If you're saying that this forum's search function actually works as it should I'll certainly be using it going forward