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homie dont play dat
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so when i disconnect the est wire to find base timing and get it set a zero degrees and unplug battery to reset the cpu after waiting five minutes i hook up the est and battery and if shoots it up like 20 btdc runs fine when idling but when i take it out on the road and get goin up to 45 or higher its misfires a bit and hesitates have changed new cap and rotor and plugs and new tps sensor and i have also seafoamed it it is bagged with stock tank inside cab and i can hear that the fuel pump is running when i drive it so any input is appreciated
 

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WICKED 6 RACING
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2,189 Posts
It should freely spin it should not move all around or flop around. The shaft, gear and top side are all connected through the shaft. As long as the shaft not broke or roll pin missing all it should do is spin. Actually if its the blazer in the picture your working on you really don't need to disconnect the battery. Just shut it off plug the wire back in and be done. If the computer sees everything is alright the SES will not come on and will clear. I had a similar issue. Unplug the time box on the firewall. Its like a 2 inch by 2 inch little black box mounted to the fire wall with a long plug in the bottom. In my 92 it's to the left of the distributor if your looking at the truck from the front. You can unplug it and drive it. If the misfire goes away you know that box is bad, or in my case it was.
 

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homie dont play dat
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i unplugged the timing box and there seemed to be no difference but since ive had the truck the temp gauge hasnt worked would that cause it to misfire and hesitate and not shift correctly and yes it is the blazer in my pic
 

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homie dont play dat
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i unplugged the timing box and there seemed to be no difference but since ive had the truck the temp gauge hasnt worked would that cause it to misfire and hesitate and not shift correctly and yes it is the blazer in my pic
also i cant find any wires running to the temp switch on the block near the 2nd valve the switch is ther but nothing is connected to it and the temp sensor up by the intake is all hooked up how do i get it all working good so i can have my stock tmp gauge to work
 

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i saw what you did there!
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3,573 Posts
the sensor on the intake or therm housing is for the ecm

the one down on head is for dash, this one is the one for the guage, change it

but it wont affect engine performance

if theres side slop in distrib shaft bushings then this is a good source cause for bad engine running because it can cause erratic signal from the pickup in the distrib

to me with it hesitating and not going past a certain speed it sounds like fuel delivery issue

did the hose on top of the fuel pump to the hanger assembly get hose clamped good in place and used a actual fuel rated hose?

full 12 volts in the gray wire to the fuel pump?

good ground too?

if the cpa and rotor are over a year old then replace them regardless

bad cap and rotor causing engine troubles is extremely common on these

check ground wires on engine also.

make sure FP relay is working when you put key in run position the FP should kick on for a couple or three seconds then click off(relay click)

firewall by brake booster
 

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homie dont play dat
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the fuel pump itself should run for 3 seconds and shut off? cause as i keep it running and drive it i can hear it running all the time as it is bagged and the tank is inside the blazer
and the one down on the head has no wires running to it anywhere i can find em any idea what color they may be
 

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homie dont play dat
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so i replaced the distributor and module and no change at all could clogged injectors cause it to misfire and not shift right i replaced the fuel filter today also if it was a faulty fuel pump or related fuel pump issue would it cause i t to miss and not shift right im so close to taking it to a shop but man i really dont want to
 
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