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Discussion Starter #1
It died on me today, coasting up to a stop sign. Oil pressure, temp, volts, fuel all looked good. It cranks but doesn’t fire. I can see fuel squirting into the bowl so the fuel is getting that far at least.

I’ve been needing to tune it up for a while now. It’s been cranky on cold starts. So I’m guessing on cap or rotor. There’s no computer so no codes to check. What’s next for diagnosis?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did the spark test with an old spark plug. It’s a challenge to find any exposed block on this thing covered with vacuum lines and exhaust gas recirculating pipes and nonworking air conditioning things. I finally decided on a few bracket attachments in the front, tried three different spots and got no spark at all. So I ordered a module for tomorrow, to go with the cap and rotor kit, plugs and (not the $90) wires. The module is an easy change on my v8 El Camino but I haven’t looked this up yet to see if it’s similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK. Changed one plug last night and started on the second--won't budge. So that at least solved the to-anti-seize-or-not debate for me. Sprayed with blaster and it sat overnight. I'm fixing to get back out there and see if it helped. Parts won't be in until after noon.
 

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Usually, (but not always) if you have fuel, then the pickup coil and module are good. It takes an rpm signal to ecm to enable fuel.
Have you checked for spark at the coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I think I’m supposed to use the wire connectors to to ignition coil. I ran the ohmmeter probe tests listed in in the manual and it comes up as bad pickup coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ordered and picked up the pickup coil. Chiltons says I need to remove the dizzy to work on it, will have to knock out a roll pin holding it on the neck. But they don’t seem to give instructions on how to remove the dist.

I found and removed the 15 mm bolt and retainer. The dizzy isn’t budging. I’ve searched the site on this and haven’t found anything. Is there a secret retainer? There is no room to work back there by the firewall and I can’t see anything. Anyone run into this before?
 

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2.8 had an o ring to seal the oil galley. It is probably as hard as a rock. If you can twist the dizzy, try working in some Blaster or WD40
I always used a small block distributor gasket in conjunction with the o ring to prevent leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, I need a plan B. I have been trying crowbar, BFH, lot os Blaster, can't get a good way to hit it. I got the crowbar up against it and managed to hit it so it turned a little, but when I looked closely the top hadn't turned, only the collar. In other words, this view from the top did not change.





So now I'm wondering of it is possible to change the pickup coil without removing the dizzy? Surely this top thing (don't know what it is called) can be removed. Since I can hit this collar around a bit, maybe it can be pulled off from the top?



Otherwise I have no idea how I'm going to get any force on it to pull it up. Maybe a giant puller of some kind, braced against the block that I can barely see?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2.8 distributor help

Gentlemen, I need some suggestions. I've got a thread going over in the 60 degree forum detailing my difficulties changing my pickup coil. My Chilton's recommends removing the distributor to do so. I cannot get the distributor out. It is stuck like in cement. I've been pouring Blaster down it and whacking it with hammers and trying to leverage with crowbars.
Can I change the coil without removing the distributor body? Chilton's wants me to remove the whole thing, remove the gears and collar at the base, and slide the whole thing off there. Can the top be removed instead?
Where's Max when you need him?


 

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Re: 2.8 distributor help

No. I believe you have to take apart the whole thing to change thebpick up.. yours looks like a mechanical advance so maybe different
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, frying pan to fire. I had been wiggling the housing around for a few days with no improvement. So I got a great idea. I grabbed a coil spring compressor, lodged a set of the hooks up under the dizzy, then started extending the rod so it was based on the block. I thought I had even pressure on both sides of the dizzy, but apparently I did not. I saw it lift up and I thought I had gotten it. The compressor-turned-expander swung around, which is when I got the picture. Right after that I lifted the dizzy out—to find I had snapped the base of the housing off in the hole and popped the top off. So much for clever ideas. Now I have only the center rod to pull on; still can’t get any purchase on it so it hasn’t budged at all.

On the positive side, I’m getting plenty of extra exercise on the bicycle in 100 degree heat.

 

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Wow!
Slide hammer with vise grip end?
Worst case, pull the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I made a little slide hammer out of a piece of the housing but it has no weight on it. I might try to add weight today and try it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Still no progress. I tried the slide hammer technique with a little more weight. I tried setting a pry bar under the vise grip and over the unused cruise control bracket attached to something, maybe the valve cover, using it as a fulcrum. Lots of heavy whacks and all I did was bend that bracket and crease the top of the valve cover. I returned to the spring compressor since now there is plenty of room to make sure I’m getting balanced leverage. Worked slowly but all I could do was slide the vise grips off the top. I’m wondering now about physics of heat. Can I get the area around the hole expanding just a little?
 

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Keep in mind that the distributor shaft needs to turn as what's left of the assembly comes up.
 
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