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Mew Nember
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Skimming posts about the rear main seal and seeing different things so need confirmation.



1. Is the seal a 1 piece, 2 piece, rope seal?





2. Does the oil pan need pulled to do the rear main seal on an '82? If so, are there any tricks to avoiding pulling the motor altogether? Can I disconnect the trans (72k miles and probably still has the stock clutch so no biggie as it's probably cruddy with oil on it) and exhaust and lift the engine enough from underneath to get the pan off? From there, doe the rear main cap need removed or something? If so, what are the tq specs?
 

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Registered Hoosier
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4,435 Posts
If it is original, it would be a rope seal. GM had two piece replacement seals, then went to a one piece seal (requires crank removal to install). Unless you have access to a lift, pulling the engine is the best route, especially if using the one piece seal.
 

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Mew Nember
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Would a replacement rope seal still work and be the minimally invasive chore? Can a fresh one get pressed in over the old one?

If rope seal no longer exists, would a 2 piece still require dropping the crank or can you just remove the pan then rear-most cap? Rock auto appears to have 1 and 2 piece, and might have rope, can't tell.



I don't know what kind of repairs this thing might have had in the last 37 years and want to avoid pulling the crank if possible. It might have barely there bearings or helicoil in places, dunno. Trying to avoid that potential can of worms until it gets V8 swapped.



Probably won't see more than 2k miles on this 2.8L, but it's leaking bad enough it needs resealed.
 

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Registered
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145 Posts
Hello,

I would use the 2 piece seal. I would also consider a crankshaft repair sleeve at the same time. If a groove has worn into the crank (which you may or may not be able to tell when you disassemble it in the truck), then replacing the seal will not completely fix the leak. Adding the sleeve and replacing the seal should do the trick.
 

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Mew Nember
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hello,

I would use the 2 piece seal. I would also consider a crankshaft repair sleeve at the same time. If a groove has worn into the crank (which you may or may not be able to tell when you disassemble it in the truck), then replacing the seal will not completely fix the leak. Adding the sleeve and replacing the seal should do the trick.



Thanks for the info!
 

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Boozebag
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8,997 Posts
Chevy hasn't used a rope seal for the rear main since the early stovebolt 6 cylinders. I think the 265 and early 283 (55, 56 ,57) used the roper dopers, but all of the later engines used neoprene 2 piece or one piece seals.
The early 2.8s had 2 piece seals, the later ones used a one piece unit. I think they went to one piece in 85. (IIRC)
The one piece can be done by simply pulling the flywheel.
The 2 piece is much more of a PIA.
You have to pull the pan and drop the rear cap. If you are careful, you can tap the old upper seal out with a punch and hammer, lube the new one, start it into the cavity and tap it in.
Since the oil pan is off... you can loosen the other main caps and lower the crank a small amount. This makes the job easier.
If you are serious about this rig and have the facility, I would pull the engine, re-seal everything and replace the timing chain assembly.
I would probably replace the oil pump just for the hell of it. The parts are super cheap on Ebay or Rock Auto. I would also ultra clean it and blast some paint on it.


Just a suggestion.


Oh, and if you have a money tree in your back yard, convert to a Weber carb. They make a HUGE improvement over the Bogchester.
This will also allow you to eliminate all of the rubber spaghetti and you can nix the AIR pump too- unless you live in Cali.


Hope this helps...


Confucius say - Bad oil leak like Exxon Valdez… :haha:
 
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