your partly right, except that haveing a 8 or 10 inch cylinder accually puts less strain and lateral force on the bushing and piston and seals so in return it will last longer.. being that you only useing 6 inches out of the cylinder, you have 2-4 inch still inside the caseinganything over 6 inch cyl in the front is worth less. thats with stock arms not sure about with tubular arms. i didnt hop or anything just to lay frame.i had 8 inchers in the front of my 2000 and replaced them with 6 inchers and it locked out just befor the cyl ran out of stroke
I have 8" cylinders in the front and dont use the full 8" and I had 10" cylinders in the back....I had to replace the back ones (bent one) and they sent me 12" by mistake. I get no where near 12" of lift, but I can 3 wheel a hell of a lot higher then my buddies with 8" in the rear. Not sure if this helps u or not.
fixedanything over 8 inch cyl in the front is worth less. thats with stock arms not sure about with tubular arms. i didnt hop or anything just to lay frame.i had 8 inchers in the front of my 2000 and replaced them with 6 inchers and it locked out just befor the cyl ran out of stroke
isnt 8in more likely to tear up ball joints though?your partly right, except that haveing a 8 or 10 inch cylinder accually puts less strain and lateral force on the bushing and piston and seals so in return it will last longer.. being that you only useing 6 inches out of the cylinder, you have 2-4 inch still inside the caseing
technically, yes.. only way to avoid that is running 6 inch in the front, but everyone runs 8's and its normal. the balljoints hold everything together and the only time your going to have a problem is with hopping or overlocking your front suspention. overlocking it puts that extra stress on the balljoints and wears them quicker.. so as long as you dont overlock, you dont have any problems..isnt 8in more likely to tear up ball joints though?
instead of the cylinder limiting the lock point, now the ball joints do...