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· DUH
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107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so iv seen 8, 12 and so on cylinders, how much lift is expected out of each? oh i know that placement on the rear makes a difference but what about the frount?
thanks
 

· daily dragger
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216 Posts
anything over 6 inch cyl in the front is worth less. thats with stock arms not sure about with tubular arms. i didnt hop or anything just to lay frame.i had 8 inchers in the front of my 2000 and replaced them with 6 inchers and it locked out just befor the cyl ran out of stroke
 

· -=Hand Made=-
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410 Posts
anything over 6 inch cyl in the front is worth less. thats with stock arms not sure about with tubular arms. i didnt hop or anything just to lay frame.i had 8 inchers in the front of my 2000 and replaced them with 6 inchers and it locked out just befor the cyl ran out of stroke
your partly right, except that haveing a 8 or 10 inch cylinder accually puts less strain and lateral force on the bushing and piston and seals so in return it will last longer.. being that you only useing 6 inches out of the cylinder, you have 2-4 inch still inside the caseing
 

· Registered
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177 Posts
I have 8" cylinders in the front and dont use the full 8" and I had 10" cylinders in the back....I had to replace the back ones (bent one) and they sent me 12" by mistake. I get no where near 12" of lift, but I can 3 wheel a hell of a lot higher then my buddies with 8" in the rear. Not sure if this helps u or not.
 

· -=Hand Made=-
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410 Posts
I have 8" cylinders in the front and dont use the full 8" and I had 10" cylinders in the back....I had to replace the back ones (bent one) and they sent me 12" by mistake. I get no where near 12" of lift, but I can 3 wheel a hell of a lot higher then my buddies with 8" in the rear. Not sure if this helps u or not.

yea, the bigger cylinder in the rear is helping the higher three wheel
 

· Registered
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50 Posts
anything over 8 inch cyl in the front is worth less. thats with stock arms not sure about with tubular arms. i didnt hop or anything just to lay frame.i had 8 inchers in the front of my 2000 and replaced them with 6 inchers and it locked out just befor the cyl ran out of stroke
fixed:)
 

· Registered
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44 Posts
your partly right, except that haveing a 8 or 10 inch cylinder accually puts less strain and lateral force on the bushing and piston and seals so in return it will last longer.. being that you only useing 6 inches out of the cylinder, you have 2-4 inch still inside the caseing
isnt 8in more likely to tear up ball joints though?
instead of the cylinder limiting the lock point, now the ball joints do...
 

· -=Hand Made=-
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410 Posts
isnt 8in more likely to tear up ball joints though?
instead of the cylinder limiting the lock point, now the ball joints do...
technically, yes.. only way to avoid that is running 6 inch in the front, but everyone runs 8's and its normal. the balljoints hold everything together and the only time your going to have a problem is with hopping or overlocking your front suspention. overlocking it puts that extra stress on the balljoints and wears them quicker.. so as long as you dont overlock, you dont have any problems..
 

· Registered
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90 Posts
8" stroke will give you average 12" of lift on a stock S10. The a-arm or a limit strap should always be what limits the suspension. You dont want to dead head a pair of 1" bore cylinders with a high pressure, high velocity pump.You also dont want to misalign a balljoint to max either. If you lock out the suspension via a limit strap or bumpstop on the upper arm, the coil acts as a cushion to suck up the extra unneeded cylinder extension, so always make sure your cylinder is an inch or two bigger than it needs to be.
 
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