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nope, you would have to order 2* angled blocks, then buy more additional 2* shims.

Y do you need a 6* block for? you should nver need that much correction on an S10, no mater how much the drop.
 

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PCMPOWERTUNES
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Discussion Starter #3
without getting into a big thing about manufacturing and all that all i have to say is never say never. ( former gm employee ). I appreciate you reply none the less.

If anyone cares I found a guy who will custom make steel or aluminum tapered or non tapered blocks up to 12 degree taper. he also makes custom shims . They are as cheap as buying belltech blocks too.

thanks Jim
 

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Token Bald Guy
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im not trying to get in a flaming war, but i am curious about 6 degrees. a bunch will claim no degree is fine, others say you must have 3-4 but i am really curious on this 6 degree. is there any information that may enlighten us or suggest otherwise. Appreciate it.
 

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the dealer had to use that muchon my zq8 stock 4 degree shim then when i lowered it i used 2 degreeshim was fine. i have joes tranny spacer im puttin it in this weekend. sorry carrier bearing spcer
 

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PCMPOWERTUNES
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well you may not know this but every manufacturer works the same way ford chevy you name it . On the assembly line there are defective parts laying around and when they run out of the certified parts the blems or defects go in ., Maybe nothing more then a blemish or someting stupid. As for this thread almost evey gm mini truck and blazer runs the same rear end 7.625 10 bolt housing and carrier with different ratio for different models. The one thing that separates a zr2 from a regular s10 is the angle at which the spring perches are mounted . Now just imagine running out of the zq8 rear , and again mostly the only difference is the gear ratio and rear brake setup besides the sping perches and the degree that they are welded on ( pinion angle ) depends on which model they go on. They will grab one from the other pile and slam it in. That is why some people have pinion angle problems . And dont forget the driveshafts too same thing. I have had both problems , my driveshaft was 2 1/4 inches too long and my pinion angle was way off . If you want to check call any gm dealer and ask for part #s for a zq8 driveshaft and a standard s10 they are different . And if they tell you they arent they are lying I checked the part #s myself. Sorry for the long thread I hope something here makes sense.

JIM
 

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Blown ex ***
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5,710 Posts
i have something like 8* in mine. i made them. i think 6* is not uncalled for(though i don't know his setup). you guys don't think you have a problem. but your truck has yet to throw its driveshaft onto the highway as a few others have. i have more checking to do on mine, but 6-8* is getting it pretty close to right.

btw, i'm am talking about my ex-cab, but he may have a similar problem.
 

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mrtire said:
Well you may not know this but every manufacturer works the same way ford chevy you name it . On the assembly line there are defective parts laying around and when they run out of the certified parts the blems or defects go in ., Maybe nothing more then a blemish or someting stupid. As for this thread almost evey gm mini truck and blazer runs the same rear end 7.625 10 bolt housing and carrier with different ratio for different models. The one thing that separates a zr2 from a regular s10 is the angle at which the spring perches are mounted . Now just imagine running out of the zq8 rear , and again mostly the only difference is the gear ratio and rear brake setup besides the sping perches and the degree that they are welded on ( pinion angle ) depends on which model they go on. They will grab one from the other pile and slam it in. That is why some people have pinion angle problems . And dont forget the driveshafts too same thing. I have had both problems , my driveshaft was 2 1/4 inches too long and my pinion angle was way off . If you want to check call any gm dealer and ask for part #s for a zq8 driveshaft and a standard s10 they are different . And if they tell you they arent they are lying I checked the part #s myself. Sorry for the long thread I hope something here makes sense.

JIM
I've been asking this everywhere, maybe you can help me out. My truck is lowered 2/3 on top of the zq8 and mine has a vibration around 55 mph, and it shakes when taking off from a standstill. I've spaced my carrier bearing 1" and took my truck to the local driveline shop. They are telling me that I have 0* at the trans, and 3* at the diff. Everything looks good to them and they recommend that I balance my driveshaft next. Well I heard thats not necessary, but was told from a member on the forum, Joe (who made my carrier spacer), to add shims to the rear, like 2 or 3*. You're saying that you need 6* total in the rear. If I were to get a set from you, would that solve my vibration? Cuz I may just get a set of 3 inch steel blocks with 6* taper. What kind of prices is your friend charging? Can you tell me how to use an angle finder? Cuz I'll go buy one and check the angles myself if I get new blocks. If you want, PM me with all info you have, cuz the chevy delaer and the driveline shop won't help with bigger shims for the rear. I think you know exactly what it's going to take to get rid of this vibration.

Sorry for the long post.
 

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Forgot to add: how did you come up with 6* again? What are the angles supposed to be on our trucks? I was told that I need to have atleast 3* for the u-joints to move and work properly. 3-6* is a good range for our trucks, is this true?
 

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PCMPOWERTUNES
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hard to say

There really is no science to this . First This guy is not my friend . I found him surfing the web and his website is very professionaland informative you should probably go there and rear some of his stuff.

Second the driveshaft angles ( pinion angles ) can be up to 3 degree difference from each other as long as the angles are in a downward angle. Typically you would want 3 degrees posative angle on the trans and three degrees negative on the rear diff so when the rpm increases they will cancel each other out . see diagram below .
As for the measurements that you will have to figure out on jack stands .Lift the whole truck off of the ground , the jack stands will have to be under the rear housing to simulate ride height. Measure each end with an angle finder to get your centerline, and use basic math (subtraction ) to find tha angle you need . I am still in the process of doing mine , my rear is higher than my transmission centerline so I have to use shims on my trans also to corret my problems along with shortening my driveshaft and setting my rear angle. Hope this helps .

JIM
 

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mrtire said:
There really is no science to this . First This guy is not my friend . I found him surfing the web and his website is very professionaland informative you should probably go there and rear some of his stuff.

Second the driveshaft angles ( pinion angles ) can be up to 3 degree difference from each other as long as the angles are in a downward angle. Typically you would want 3 degrees posative angle on the trans and three degrees negative on the rear diff so when the rpm increases they will cancel each other out . see diagram below .
As for the measurements that you will have to figure out on jack stands .Lift the whole truck off of the ground , the jack stands will have to be under the rear housing to simulate ride height. Measure each end with an angle finder to get your centerline, and use basic math (subtraction ) to find tha angle you need . I am still in the process of doing mine , my rear is higher than my transmission centerline so I have to use shims on my trans also to corret my problems along with shortening my driveshaft and setting my rear angle. Hope this helps .

JIM
I thought the xtra cabs wouldn't have to shorten the driveshafts because of the slip joint at the carrier bearing? Also do you have that guys website, I'll check it out and see what it's like.

bg's said:
This site might help too. Looks at their FAQ's at the bottom and go
thru the site. Pretty interesting.

www.iedls.com
Thanks for the website. You're right, tons of good info. I even know where they are located. I used to live in So Cal. I was wondering why the website sounded familiar.
 

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PCMPOWERTUNES
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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got around to measuring my pinion angle and i came up with 5 degree pinion . i measured the trans and it was at 0 degrees and the rear was at - 5 degrees with belltechs 3 inch no angle blocks , thats how i measured the angle so i could simulate the drop and the angle at the stock degree. .I also elected to have a new drive shaft made since mine was 2 inches too long. i had the new one made so i knew it would be perfect. the only vibration I have at this point is a slight tire vibration.
 

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Ok, now your truck is an xtra cab, so you have a 2 piece driveshaft like mine, right? I have an angle finder on order so I can measure my driveline angles, but I wanted to know what points you are measuring at? Doing a web search for this, I'm finding that I'm supposed to take a measurement of the driveshaft from horizontal, unbolt the the driveshaft at the diff and take a measurement on the flange from vertical, and take a measurement at the tailshaft of the trans. Does this sound right? Do I need to take more measuremnts on the front half of the driveshaft, the one coming out of the trans and around the carrier bearing, or is this not needed? So now that you know the pinion angle is 5*, isn't that good? Aren't leaf spring working angles supposed to be like 4*-7*? Or are you supposed to match the angle at the trans? So you want the diff at 0*, like the trans, and will need a 5* shim? I'm confused on exactly how much and what angle I'm supposed to be at. Also how did you know how much to shorten your driveshaft? Sorry for the long list of questions.

EDIT: I didn't see in your sig that you have a std cab, my bad. :) But how would I go about measuring the angles for the 2 piece driveshaft?
 

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OK! I am about tired of this vibration I have. Ive taken my truck to several shops. This is what I have gathered. I have a xcab, 2pc shaft w/ 3 ujoints. They have said my ujoints are good as is my carrier (center) bearing. I have the spacer from joe for the carrier bearing. The rear is droped with 3" belltech leaves, and 2" 2* taper blocks and 4* shims (total of 6*). At first I just had the 2* 2" blocks w/ the belltech leaves everything else has been added to try to fix this vibration from a stop. Today the shop said the angles are at 0* and that i need 2 more degrees down at the diff so when I accel from a dead stop, the diff raises back up to 0*. Which would be 8* total. I am going to have my blocks cut soon, and I will let you know what happens. I am determined to fix this annoying sh*t!!!
 
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