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would it be possible to do a swap on a 1995 GMC Jimmy 4 door? Or would there
be complications with transmission length and drive shaft length? also would i be able to keep the push button 4x4 transfer case?
 

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I am in the middle of swapping the trans into my 99. Just as a heads up, the speed senor on the 99 manual trans and the auto are different. Well the plug is the problem. The sensor in the 2000+ manual trans are the same as the 99 auto. I had to order the pigtail and am going to splice it into the harness. Plus I had to order flywheel bolts. For the 2.2l guys the part number is 740993031116 or ZX-200 made by ATP. I got mine from Summitracing.com.
 
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looking to swap a 96 305 vortec from a 4wd silverado in my 95 ext cab 4.3 auto 2wd dime.i want to convert to manual and already have a wc t5 from a 90 camaro,would like to install this along with the 96 305 vortec(as to keep the shifter local on the t5 and fab up a newr 98-04 console to accept the t5 location)would i use the camaro pedal assembly or pedal assembly say from a 96-97 blazer(which i also have)also would the t5 mount up to my 95 4.3? or should i just get the nv3500 thats still avail with the blazer i got the pedal assembly from? should i also get the ecm,and cross member,or could i use my 95 auto one,IF i use the 4.3/nv3500 instead of the vortec 305/t5 set-up?
 

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What was the cost of the swap? I have a 2003 zr2 4x4 that I was t to manual swap. Also need the center console. Junk yard is close so will have to call Monday. Be easier then a V8 and cost less I bet. Trans here is $375. Not sure on other parts. What did the dealer charge you to flash your ECU?

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I have a '94 with the 4.3 and manual 5 speed (Getrag?) that has started letting me know it is tired. I got a 2000 parts truck (rusty but mech good) with a manual/4.3 thinking both were NV3500. got both out and now a little confused about which direction to go, as it seems there are a lot of modifications needed to use the NV3500 (shifter location, crossmember?, plumbing, wires, exhaust. rebuild the Getrag or transplant the NV3500?.....or will a T-5 fit the earlier models shifter location/hyd. lines?
 

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Going to the pull it part yard tomorrow to get everything off the Blazer I found for a 5 speed swap. It is the gen 2 2 door. Like the ZR2 body but I do not see the badge for it. It as everything I need. Hope it is still there. Made a list on what I need to take. Will use my steering column and remove the shifter on it. I am super excited for this opportunity.
 

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Okay so I recently sold my car to buy a truck so I can move around all my toys(stunt bike,street bike , quads , etc) so I bought a 2000 s10 extreme ext cab automatic wit a 4.3L v6.. I hate automatic iv always had stick and that's all I like to drive... So I found a NV3500 trans on Craigslist with the flywheel clutch master cyl clutch pedal dust cover throw out bearing and a cut clutch hydrolic line, what I didn't know was the 2000 s10s have an internal slave cyl the NV3500 that I bought has an external slave cyl.... So I figured it was the same and all last week I Installed the trans(I'm guessing its a 92-95 not really sure). I am guessing it's a 94 that's what I ordered all the parts for, I put a 94 flywheel, throw out bearing, slave cyl, hydrolic clutch line,clutch fork.... And a 2000 master cyl, clutch kit (clutch fiber, pressure plate, pilot bearing)... I have it all installed in the truck with a little modifying.. I had to shave the side of the slave to clear the oil pan, the dust cover wouldn't fit behind the flywheel so I didn't use it I had to add 3 inches to the y pipe so it cleared the slave cyl, I have it all back together and everything seemed to be right I bled it over and over till there is no more air coming out... It's deffinetly bled 99% because when I push the clutch down the slave pushes the clutch fork (I can see thru the inspection wondow) the problem is before the clutch fully disengages the clutch fork bottoms out on the bell housing and once it does the clutch pedal goes from feeling like a clutch to a brake pedal it's so stiff, I can't find any info on this anywhere!!! So someone please bless me with an answer I NEED HELP DESPRITLY!!!! This is my daily driver and I have had to ride my stunt bike to work 30 min everyday in the cold ass weather here in NY!!! Not fun !! Need my truck back lol... I was told I need a spacer behind my flywheel I don't think that's true I think my buddy who helped me told me the 2000 clutch kit was good I think it's diff than the 94 clutch kit and I think that is giving me not enough throw to disengage the clutch... I'm not sure my boy is the top mechanic at dodge he knows what he is doing so I'm sure everything is installed right I think the parts are wrong should I try putting the 94 clutch on it that I got wit the trans? My boy is charging me to do this (well really my boys uncle who i know, deff wouldn't call him my boy now that he is telling me he don't wanna take the trans back out n fix it !!! After I paid em he tells me that...)I had to pay em 1000$ for the swap and I helped em so I kinda ran outta $ I'm about 3-3500$ into this I really need the answer if someone can help me here, any advice would be appreciated thank you my names mike if ur in my area n can help hit me up pm me or however it works I'm new to this forum thing not sure exactly how it works
Did same swap n havin same issue.. any update??
 

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Step 14
Transmission install
Once the clutch is installed it is basically just putting everything back the way you took it out, starting with the transmission. The easiest way to get the transmission back in place it to lie down on a creeper with the transmission resting on your chest and legs with your head pointing towards the front of the truck. With the transmission on top of you and the body jacked up off of the frame you will want to slide the transmission input shaft through the clutch and pressure plate and into the pilot bearing, the trick to this step is getting the teeth on the input shaft to line up with the teeth of the clutch plate. To get the teeth to line up it is easiest to push the transmission into place as someone turns the output shaft of the transmission while it is in gear (this will spin the input shaft and when the teeth line up the transmission should be able to be wiggled into place). Once the transmission input shaft is into the pilot bearing it’s just a matter of wiggling the transmission forward until the bellhousing sits flush with the engine block (you can tighten the transmission mounting bolts in cross pattern tightening each one a little bit at a time to pull the transmission into place), at this point reinstall all of the 8 15mm bolts that hold the transmission to the engine (you will notice that on one of the upper bolts on the driver side there is a bracket that holds the wires for the transmission this bracket has to be mounted with the upper transmission bolt to prevent the wires from falling or sagging).




Step 15
Transmission wiring
There will be two plugs on the standard transmission one will be a speed sensor which will be located on the tail shaft section of the transmission and the other will be a reverse sensor plug which will be on the driver side of the transmission (this sensor is basically a switch and allows 12 volts to flow through it when the transmission is in reverse). The speed sensor will be the same on both the automatic and stick transmission and should just plug in, it will be located on the driver side of the transmission. The reverse plug will need to be wired into the automatic transmission harness; it is just a matter of connecting two wires which is not a big deal at all. To connect the reverse harness you will splice the pink wire from the reverse harness pigtail into the pink wire of the automatic harness in the truck (the trucks harness is the harness that is the bigger of the three remaining harnesses but it is not the round one), the green wire from the harness pigtail will be connected to the grey wire in the trucks harness. The best way to make these connections is to solder and tape the splice, this will prevent the connection from coming lose and will resist the weather and elements.



Step 16
Reinstallation of miscellaneous parts
Lower the cab of the truck on to the frame and tighten all of the body mounts back up including the two on the front of the truck on either side of the radiator.
Reinstall these parts just as you took them out
- Exhaust (be sure to reconnect your o2 sensors)
- Transmission cross member
- Driveshaft



Step 17
Filling the transmission with oil
The next step is to fill the transmission with oil, but these transmissions take a special type of oil called synchromesh if you don’t use the proper oil you can kill your transmission. At first I used GM synchromesh from the dealer but was not happy with it and decided to run Royal Purple Synchromax which I found to be much better. To fill the transmission with oil you will want to take a 17mm Allen key and take out the top oil plug located on the passenger side of the transmission and fill the transmission with oil until it sits just at the bottom of the fill plug. The best way to fill the transmission is to use a bottle with a curved tube coming out of it almost like a hamster water bottle, this will make in easier to get to the award position of the transmission fill plug. To be safe you will want to get 3 Quarts of oil, you will use about 2 and a quarter bottles to fill the transmission to the point where it should be.

Step 18
Clutch line connection and bleeding
This is the last step of the swap and is quite simple, to connect the clutch line to slave cylinder (throw out bearing) it just a matter of pushing the line into the connector on the slave cylinder which is located on the driver side of the bellhousing, the line should just click into place and not be able to be pulled out by giving it a little tug. After the line is connected open the clutch fluid reservoir and fill it about ¾ of the way with DOT 3 brake fluid. Lastly its time to bleed the clutch, do this by opening the bleeder valve (which is 13mm) and having someone hold the pedal to the floor until a steady stream of fluid runs out. Then close it. Pump the pedal a few times then do it again. It should take less than 5. You will notice the pedal is stiffer. Once you are positive all of the air is out of the line fill the reservoir back up ¾ of the way and you are ready to go for a drive.


Did same swap n havin same issue.. any update??
Kudos to you - I read you and your buddy were 18 when you did this swap. Very impressive undertaking, thats half the battle! Im more impressed with the write up and desire to help others, Most kids these days are afraid of getting their hands dirty and cant pull away from the PS4 long enough to brush their teeth, not to mention helping someone else with something like this!
Nice write up and very helpful ( I read thru the entire thing even tho it probably doesnt fit my ls t56 swap Im going to be doing)
 

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Really no ned to bump an old thread.

 
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