[CaptainAJ787]

do you already have the 700? i recommend finding a 4l60. it is the same size as the 700, and the pcm can control it correctly. Nothing really wrong with a 700, but its carb to fuel injection, the advancment in technology is so great, there is almost no reason to want to use a 700.

I do have a 700r4. It has been sitting for a while, but was freshly rebuilt when it was pulled and drove fine. Otherwise, I don't mind the idea of a 4l60e.

you can keep your speedo with any trans you decide to use. I dont get this post?

My speedo runs off of the cable and I haven't figured out a way to keep it with the 4l60e which runs an electrical signal. That's my problem there, although I probably just haven't found the solution to it yet.

your stock linkage should still work, although might need to be modified by adding bends and or longer piece of rod to it.

I think my main problem here is that I don't seem to have the motor sitting correctly yet 😂 like oldeerslayer said, it looks offset and I'm willing to bet its a little crooked too. I figured if I bend the linkage tab on the column toward the firewall so it moves behind the cylinder head, I might have succes!

 

[CaptainAJ787]

Also, most of the 4l60s around here are 4x4s with a million miles on them that aren't going to work for what I need anyway. Its proven difficult to find one!

 

[CaptainAJ787]

I’m trying to find the adapters I need to thread in my coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sender from the 2.8 and found these. I think they’re the correct ones but wanted to verify before I ordered them.

Amazon.com: Larlansz LS Engine Swap M16 1.5 Adapter to 1/8 NPT Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter and M12 1.5 Adapter to 3/8 NPT Coolant Temperature Sensor Water for All LS Series Engines LS1 LSX LS3 : Automotive

Buy Larlansz LS Engine Swap M16 1.5 Adapter to 1/8 NPT Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter and M12 1.5 Adapter to 3/8 NPT Coolant Temperature Sensor Water for All LS Series Engines LS1 LSX LS3: Coolant Temperature - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

I also wanted to make sure I know which oil sender I’m supposed to screw in. I see two different units in the 2.8 on the drivers side, one has a 2 pin plug and the other has a 3. If I’m not mistaken, the 3 pin is for the gauge correct?

 

[jslezak83]

I bought a new coolant temp sender and had a local machine shop turn it down and thread it to M12 x 1.5. I pulled the plug at the rear passenger head and installed it there. May not be the best spot as it gets hot back there. It will get the gauge working at least. OBDII stream can take care of the rest. Oil pressure sender was drilled and tapped into the H3 oil cooler bypass. On my ‘87 I have a the gauge cluster and DRAC from an ‘89 and will use that for the speedometer. There are other electric solutions to drive the cable speedometer if you wanted to go that route.

That diagram you have should help you with the firewall bulkhead connector. There are also a few wires on the passenger side to deal with. SES lamp is probably all you’ll be concerned with.

I agree with the others in that you should find a 4L60E. The PCM will be happy, you won’t have to fight to find a TV cable solution.

 

[jslezak83]

Also for the senders, the pre ‘88s had switches that went to a relay and triggered the CHECK GAGES lamp. I think the two wire oil pressure switch is for that purpose and the three wire handles the fuel pump circuit and gauge sender. It’s been too long since I’ve messed with it. Coolant temp has the two wire sender/switch in the cylinder head.

The ‘88 and up had all this integrated in the gauge cluster and no relay, so that might be another reason to look to upgrade to the electric speedometer. They do use different senders and slightly different wiring though.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

Also for the senders, the pre ‘88s had switches that went to a relay and triggered the CHECK GAGES lamp. I think the two wire oil pressure switch is for that purpose and the three wire handles the fuel pump circuit and gauge sender. It’s been too long since I’ve messed with it. Coolant temp has the two wire sender/switch in the cylinder head.

The ‘88 and up had all this integrated in the gauge cluster and no relay, so that might be another reason to look to upgrade to the electric speedometer. They do use different senders and slightly different wiring though.

Alright good to know! I trusted my gut and went with the three wire sensor for oil so we will hopefully have that gauge at least. I’ll have to look into updating my gauges too. I’m not entirely sure what will have to happen in the wiring to make it work but I’ll take a look. I think for the meantime I’ll work with what I have and keep it in mind for the future.

I did find some adapters online that seem to fit the two sensors. I threaded the s10 coolant temp sensor in the drivers side cylinder head. I think I’ll put the 5.3 coolant temp sensor in that back plug on the passenger side so I can run my electric fans through the stock pcm. That’s my plan anyway.

 

[jslezak83]

I don’t think I’d want to move the sensor for the PCM. There’s a reason GM puts it there. The back of the passenger side head is known to be hotter, especially with the steam ports back there blocked. I’d rather have the gauge read a little warmer rather than give the PCM a bum signal.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

I don’t think I’d want to move the sensor for the PCM. There’s a reason GM puts it there. The back of the passenger side head is known to be hotter, especially with the steam ports back there blocked. I’d rather have the gauge read a little warmer rather than give the PCM a bum signal.

This makes sense. I think my original thought was put the gauge there since that’s where it was on the 2.8, so I didn’t question it. I would rather have the gauge read a little warmer so I’ll probably switch them.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

I was finally able to get the truck pushed inside so I could work on the truck without the snow. Got the transmission put in and was surprised how close my stock crossmember is to working haha. I converted the motor to the corvette accessories since Im determined to make this a clean swap.

I started working on the cooling system too. Originally I was planning on using the fans and fan shroud from a 95 Camaro, but didn’t really like how the shroud was fitting so I measured out a custom shroud instead that also holds the radiator. It fits pretty nice! I just need to cut holes for the fans now.

I made a trip to the junkyard a couple weeks ago and scored the 8.5” rear end. It wasn’t a disc rear, but still feels like a win.

I started diving into the engine harness last night and made good progress there. I’m hoping to have it wrapped up this week and then I can figure out how much to pull out the s10 harness, that is still a little bit of a mystery to me.

I am also trying to figure out a throttle cable too. The stock one is super close, but still a little short. Looking through the forum I think I’ve seen people use the 4.3 cable? I haven’t seen a for sure solution though.

It’s been really nice to make progress again. Once the wiring is done I’m down to loose ends so hopefully it’ll be running soon

 

[oldeerslayer]

Regarding the rear end, I personally don't like rear discs on an older pickup because there is too much tendency for it to lock up under a light rear ended vehicle. Especially in rain. GM started installing rear ABS to combat that tendency long ago. Today with 4 wheel disc standard all tucks have 4 wheel ABS. Good shoes and drums will stop it just fine unless you plan to autocross it. In which case you'd want rear discs and an adjustable proportioning valve to limit rear braking.

 

[jslezak83]

Nice score on the 8.5” and I like that shroud as well. Looks nice and clean.

Years back, on my Blazer I used the larger wheel cylinders from truck with manual brakes and two sets of secondary shoes to get more contact area. I guess thats the old school way to upgrade your drum brakes. I think proper adjustment is probably more important.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

Regarding the rear end, I personally don't like rear discs on an older pickup because there is too much tendency for it to lock up under a light rear ended vehicle. Especially in rain. GM started installing rear ABS to combat that tendency long ago. Today with 4 wheel disc standard all tucks have 4 wheel ABS. Good shoes and drums will stop it just fine unless you plan to autocross it. In which case you'd want rear discs and an adjustable proportioning valve to limit rear braking.

That’s a fair point. I’ve locked the drums up before as it is. I do want to get into autocross a little bit with it though. I’m not planning to be competitive with it, just sounds like fun.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

Nice score on the 8.5” and I like that shroud as well. Looks nice and clean.

Years back, on my Blazer I used the larger wheel cylinders from truck with manual brakes and two sets of secondary shoes to get more contact area. I guess thats the old school way to upgrade your drum brakes. I think proper adjustment is probably more important.

Thank you! It was a lucky find for sure. I’m really proud of how the shroud came out too. It fits nicely and tucks the radiator away pretty well too.

I’ll be honest, I’ve never heard of doing that before 😂 might be worth looking into down the road.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Thank you! It was a lucky find for sure. I’m really proud of how the shroud came out too. It fits nicely and tucks the radiator away pretty well too.

I’ll be honest, I’ve never heard of doing that before 😂 might be worth looking into down the road.

What do you plan on using for an intake? Unless you relocate the battery and put it on the passenger side, you'll most likely never get it past the power steering reservoir in it's current location.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

What do you plan on using for an intake? Unless you relocate the battery and put it on the passenger side, you'll most likely never get it past the power steering reservoir in it's current location.

That is something I’m still thinking about a solution to. That’s why I haven’t plumbed the power steering reservoir yet, it’s just sitting there for now.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Others, including my swap, moved it to the fender and sandwiched a bracket between the ABS brackets. Connor94 has the cleanest install I've seen.

 

[jslezak83]

@Rhotpursuit how are you guys plumbing the reservoir to the pump? I’ve seen a few different installs like yours, and it seems to me that it’s difficult to get a proper slope to the pump without any peaks/valleys for air collect, and there is also the concern of clearing the belt.

I’ll probably just use the C5 reservoir for now, but with my goal of a LSA blower in the future, that won’t work. As per usual, I’m probably just over thinking this.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

@Rhotpursuit how are you guys plumbing the reservoir to the pump? I’ve seen a few different installs like yours, and it seems to me that it’s difficult to get a proper slope to the pump without any peaks/valleys for air collect, and there is also the concern of clearing the belt.

I’ll probably just use the C5 reservoir for now, but with my goal of a LSA blower in the future, that won’t work. As per usual, I’m probably just over thinking this.

Start at post 118 of Connor94's build thread.

Project: MiniSuv

Awesome build!

www.s10forum.com

We went a different route...Where the reservoir was supposed to go, we put in a catch can. Reservoir is on the drivers inner fender, with the bracket sandwiched between the abs brackets.

 

[CaptainAJ787]

Start at post 118 of Connor94's build thread.

Thanks for linking his build! I’m surprised I haven’t read through his oddly enough. I do like how he mounted his power steering reservoir though and was considering doing something similar and then relocating my coolant overflow tank to the passenger side like some of the later first gens. This also makes more sense since radiator cap and vent tube are on that passenger side now so I won’t have to run the hose from the passenger side to the bottle on the drivers.

 

[jslezak83]

Doesn’t get much clearer than that. Thanks for posting.