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· Registered
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I have a 98 s10 single cab with a 2.2 5spd. Clean truck and going to swap a 5.3 with a nv3500 and Ford 8.8

I have general information what I’ll need to do. I know the big things want but curious on the small stuff. Like the drive shaft, custom? And then steering shaft, heard about the Jeep one that’ll work but that stuff is what I’m looking to find out. (I’m not unfamiliar with swaps, just dropped a 383 sbc in a k1500 last week for a friend. That was all plug and play tho)

I know this will be more in depth and I will be taking my time. Will be repining factory harness’s to make my own. I don’t wanna go crazy with the subframe or fire wall bashing. So any tips you have on this particular swap would be awesome.

Any info on certain kits (oil pan, headers, motor mounts)… or any forums that I have not found on re wiring the harness or that can always help and any other tips you have personally incounterd would be amazing! Thank you and apologies for the book


· Two tones of terror
875 Posts
Great looking truck! Hooker makes a steering shaft thats solid steel and small in diameter that eliminates the rag joint. You may be able to get away with a stock driveshaft as long as you don't shift the fore/aft position of engine too much.

The best advice I can give you, and you won't want hear it. Is to NOT use the NV3500. I know its tempting because the trucks came with them and they are very budget friendly but it's not a good transmission, and barely suitable for any V8 especially a healthy 5.3. It is a true "truck" transmission with awful gearing for anything quick. I put one behind my 383 in my Sonoma and it shattered third at a half throttle pull during the tuning session. They are very weak and anyone who chimes in and says they are using one and it's working well for them isn't making much power or is babying the thing to not hurt it. You would even be better to use a World class T5, ideally just cough up the coin for a T56 or just go auto.

Sorry for the rant. Good luck with your build.

· Been there Done it
16,795 Posts
Holley 302-1 pan, swap motor mounts, and S10 swap exhaust manifolds is the simplest route. You know they were all made to work together. Before you're done your credit card and Holley will be BFF.
If the wiring harness and PCM came with the engine you'll only need to connect up battery power, ignition power, grounds and some wires at C100/101 that was the cab harness to the 2.2. Biggest issue I found is that there's no place for the PCM on the drivers side and that's where most LS harnesses would like it. If you mount your new computer where the original was you'll need to lengthen a number of wires. Buy a box of uninsulated 18-20ga crimp connectors, a pair of serious crimping pliers. Not those cheap combination stripper and crimp pliers. Good ones will have the crimping section on the opposite side of the center bolt from the handles. Get a bunch of 1/8" 3-1 marine shrink wrap and a heat gun. A pair of auto stripping pliers is helpful too. Best to have complete wiring diagrams for both.
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