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Discussion Starter #1
I have a build thread on a Blazer Forum, but figured my build may help other in the future here as well.

I love having sleeper vehicles and my first truck was a 1982 S15 pickup with a built 350/TH350 in it.
But I have a family now and had to add car seats to the vehicle decision. So I chose a 2door 2wd blazer.
I started with a bone stock 2002 Blazer 4.3/5speed with 198k miles. I chose this as a starting platform because being a factory 4.3/5 speed it has the larger 8.5/8.625 rear differential, larger front and rear sway bars, 4-wheel disk brakes with dual piston calipers on the front.
I bought the truck for $1200 and after the swap I sold the factory engine and trans for about $600 so I only have $600 in the rolling chassis.

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For the swap engine I picked up a 2002 Tahoe L59 5.3 engine with a 4L60E transmission. I then got a DBC throttle body off a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado with the correct bracket. This allowed me to use the factory S10 throttle cable. I went with an L59 engine because they came with the larger 33lbs flex fuel injectors versus the smaller truck injectors.

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The alternator, power steering pump and bracket are a GM LS3 performance package
Part number - 809-19257325
The water pump and balancer are also GM parts for a LS3 and the part numbers are
Balancer - 809-12674582
Water Pump - 809-89018052


I got many of my S10 specific swap parts from Current Performance including
Radiator, dual fans and A/C condenser
High mount A/C Compressor and all lines
Engine mounts
Patriot ceramic coated shorty headers
Hummer H3 oil pan
Wiring harness custom built for my setup with new O2 sensors, MAF sensor and preprogrammed PCM
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The plug wires are MSD and I am also running boot protectors off amazon
Plug Wires – 32819

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I got the center console is out of a floor shift Jimmy.
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After I had all of the parts together, I pulled the truck into my carport on a Friday night as a 4.3/5speed and on Sunday evening I drove it back out with the 5.3/4L60E with open headers. I did not get many pictures while I was swapping it because I did not want to slow down and was working by myself.

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For the power steering hoses I used a corvette pressure line and the factory S10 return line.
Pressure Hose – 36363180
For the transmission cooler lines I used factory Tahoe hardlines and cut them at the front of the engine. I then used AN6 adapters and ran AN hose through the core support to the trans cooler.
Lines – 624116 and 624153

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I had a shop build me a header back exhaust for $550. I love that it looks stock and exits in the factory location, but there are a couple things about it I did not like such as the 2.5in pipes off the headers going to a single 2.5in pipe then to a 3in pipe after the coupler. But it worked for a basically stock engine.

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Discussion Starter #3
Now that the truck had a full exhaust and was quiet, I noticed that the engine had a deep valvetrain tick at around 1550-3000 RPMs.
I should have checked the cam while I had the oil pan off and a fairly clear view, because I could have noticed this before I had to tear the engine apart while in the truck.

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So, I figured I would just upgrade the cam while I had it apart to a TSP 212/218 112 LSA low lift cam. With new LS7 lifters and hardened pushrods.

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This blazer was an open diff from the factory so I threw a Eaton Truetrac in it. I got very lucky and was able to reuse the factory carrier shims. I checked the pattern and backlash before and after the swap and they remained almost exact.
Truetrac - 363-913A481

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Discussion Starter #4
The first air intake I used was a cheap ebay one designed for a newer Tahoe, but my IATs were extremely high (150-160 degrees) at low speed and in traffic. So, I built a airbox from ABS plastic designed to pull cooler air from behind the left headlamp. This dropped my IAT about 30-40 degrees.

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Discussion Starter #5
I have since upgraded to a slightly bigger 224/224 high lift cam with PRC 2.5 ported heads and fixed the smaller 2.5in exhaust y pipe with a 3in pipe from the pipe junction back. I also bought a built 4L60E from Performabuilt because i did not trust a stock trans with unknown mileage.
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I also wanted it to sit a bit lower, so i installed some 2in drop spindles and 2in rear blocks.
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So far i have about 7k miles on the swap and i do 350 mile trips with it often. even with the 224 cam and 3200 stall converter i get about 22-24mpg on the highway with the converter locked.
Last year i ran 13.5 @97 MPH in the 1/4 with the smaller cam, factory heads, restrictive exhaust and shes a bit fat at 3800lbs with me in it.

I hope some of the part numbers or pictures can help others with their swap.
I also plan to install a LSA supercharger sometime in the near future, so that should make it a bit more interesting to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Heres a few videos.

One with the smaller 212/218 cam. but show how everything such as gauges work just like stock.

Here is one with the bigger 224/224 cam

And this is how it sounds with the cutout open
 

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awesome build! Is the new intake tube from airaid and do you have any more information on how you built the CAI box?
the tubing is the Airraid kit with some rubber connectors off ebay and a K&N filter.
For the box itself, i just took cardboard and cut templates to fit in that location. then i bought sheets of ABS plastic and ABS glue. I just cut the plastic in the same shapes as the cardboard templates and glued it all together. I got the small hinges from home depot.
I also kept the bottom open and extended the engine side down a bit so its not forcing air into the engine and always allows air to flow through the box.
For the core support, i used a 4in hole saw and drilled making sure not to damage the headlamp mounts. this way i can have it look like stockand pop the two clips to take the headlamp out at the drag strip for better airflow.
It not the prettiest box, but it works great and keeps the heat out.
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Here is a picture with a metal box that i tried. It did not work as well as the plastic one, but you can see the filter and MAF tucked nicely into it.
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, looks clean! Would you be interested in selling some or all of the afraid kit? What diameter is it?
The kit i bought is a 3.5in because it fit the best with the accessory setup im running. the part number is 100-350. I bought mine off Jegs for around $100. then i just picked up the rubber couplers off ebay. I cant find the part number for the air filter, but its just a shorter K&N cone filter that connects directly to my MAF.
I would love to sell you what i have left, but i may need more pieces of it. I plan to put an LSA blower on it either later this year or early next year when i have some time and im not sure what intake pieces i will need for that swap.
 

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The kit i bought is a 3.5in because it fit the best with the accessory setup im running. the part number is 100-350. I bought mine off Jegs for around $100. then i just picked up the rubber couplers off ebay. I cant find the part number for the air filter, but its just a shorter K&N cone filter that connects directly to my MAF.
I would love to sell you what i have left, but i may need more pieces of it. I plan to put an LSA blower on it either later this year or early next year when i have some time and im not sure what intake pieces i will need for that swap.
Dang, yeah I didn’t want to buy the entire thing since I’ll only need some of it. I wish they sold it in pieces. If you change your mind let me know.
 

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the tubing is the Airraid kit with some rubber connectors off ebay and a K&N filter.
For the box itself, i just took cardboard and cut templates to fit in that location. then i bought sheets of ABS plastic and ABS glue. I just cut the plastic in the same shapes as the cardboard templates and glued it all together. I got the small hinges from home depot.
I also kept the bottom open and extended the engine side down a bit so its not forcing air into the engine and always allows air to flow through the box.
For the core support, i used a 4in hole saw and drilled making sure not to damage the headlamp mounts. this way i can have it look like stockand pop the two clips to take the headlamp out at the drag strip for better airflow.
It not the prettiest box, but it works great and keeps the heat out.
View attachment 333839
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Here is a picture with a metal box that i tried. It did not work as well as the plastic one, but you can see the filter and MAF tucked nicely into it.
View attachment 333841
Where did you buy the flat sheets of ABS? Also, could you post a pic from the top open with the MAF and filter installed, since you can't see much through the hole in the front?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where did you buy the flat sheets of ABS? Also, could you post a pic from the top open with the MAF and filter installed, since you can't see much through the hole in the front?
I bought the plastic sheets from "Plastic Supply of San Antonio", but im in San Antonio often so it was just a quick stop at the store. You could see if there are any local plastic suppliers near you that you could buy the sheets from.

I dont have any pictures of the inside of the airbox with the piping, and im currently out of town for a few months. But inside the box is just a 90 turn connected directly to the MAF and the MAF is connected directly to the filter. This is not the ideal situation for the MAF, but it has been working for me so far.
 

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Great build man. I'm gathering parts for my 2000 zr2 s10 but I'm stuck on the accessory drive. I've been trying to find ls1/ls6 accessory drives so I have the added clearance and because of health reasons I need to have A/C. I dont want to notch the frame or add a lift. I have the milodon pan and the CPW mounts ( I now know they basically suck but I am a welder. Yours seems to fit good with about as much clearance as you can get, it seems to be what I'm looking for to get my L33 to fit. Would you mind letting me know what accessory drive system or kit you are running? Thanks for any help and sorry if I missed it being mentioned before. Any info or help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jonathan Hudson
Ps. Your plate in one of the videos looked like an SC plate, I'm in Darlington SC.
 

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Great build man. I'm gathering parts for my 2000 zr2 s10 but I'm stuck on the accessory drive. I've been trying to find ls1/ls6 accessory drives so I have the added clearance and because of health reasons I need to have A/C. I dont want to notch the frame or add a lift. I have the milodon pan and the CPW mounts ( I now know they basically suck but I am a welder. Yours seems to fit good with about as much clearance as you can get, it seems to be what I'm looking for to get my L33 to fit. Would you mind letting me know what accessory drive system or kit you are running? Thanks for any help and sorry if I missed it being mentioned before. Any info or help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jonathan Hudson
Ps. Your plate in one of the videos looked like an SC plate, I'm in Darlington SC.
Holley makes a good accessory drive system that will give you what you want and it looks factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Great build man. I'm gathering parts for my 2000 zr2 s10 but I'm stuck on the accessory drive. I've been trying to find ls1/ls6 accessory drives so I have the added clearance and because of health reasons I need to have A/C. I dont want to notch the frame or add a lift. I have the milodon pan and the CPW mounts ( I now know they basically suck but I am a welder. Yours seems to fit good with about as much clearance as you can get, it seems to be what I'm looking for to get my L33 to fit. Would you mind letting me know what accessory drive system or kit you are running? Thanks for any help and sorry if I missed it being mentioned before. Any info or help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jonathan Hudson
Ps. Your plate in one of the videos looked like an SC plate, I'm in Darlington SC.
The alternator, power steering pump and bracket are a GM LS3 performance package
Part number - 809-19257325
The water pump and balancer are also GM parts for a LS3 and the part numbers are
Balancer - 809-12674582
Water Pump - 809-89018052
Jegs used to sell the kit, but it does not seem to be available anymore through their site.
The A/C compressor bracket is from Kwik performance.
 

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you'll have better luck finding the parts if you remove the 809- That's Jegs or Summits code to designate a supplier. GM part numbers are 8 digits for most parts.
 
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