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New to this forum so, Hello forums, Just wanted to see if anyone else had trouble or some insight on my issue. When shifting from 1-2 I have to let off the gas at high revs ( 5-6 from the engine sounds ) in order for it to go into 2. Me and my brother checked the solenoids that looked fine ( although one looked completely different than the other ). Drained and changed the fluid. Checked the pan for shavings to find little to none. TPS is my next resolve before going to extremes aka buy rebuilt tranny. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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ok i am rebuilding a 4l60e from a 2002 silverado 5.3 the problem is there is a part that is not listed on any parts breakdown or in the books or in any of the videos online.

the reverse input drum under the piston when taking it apart i found a ring that fits inside of a groove. it also matches the three little nubs on the bottom of the piston itself. is it supposed to be there or did the previous builder mess up? is it a part that is just no longer used? like the springs in the input housing? the ring is a larger diameter version of the rings that hold the pump vanes in place in the pump housing. any help would be nice. i have it assembled and sitting on a bench waiting to know if i need to take it apart and remove this ring.
 

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Posted a while back and never really got a good answer. The tranny in my truck is still acting up. Now that it's gotten cold out, I've noticed when the tranny fluid hasn't earned up, there will be no TC lock up. Goes though all the gears, just no lock up(revs high but moves) until it warms up. Still having slow shifts throughout all gears. Seems to have a lot less power then when the tranny was doing right. Replaced the TPS and Idle air control valve. Any ideas?
 

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Jersey Boy
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Will a regular 350 trans work for my 2002 with a stock 2.2 4cyl
I do not believe so I'm pretty sure the 2.2 has a different bolt pattern for the transmissions, the 4.3L and 2.2L transmissions usually don't swap over and the 4.3L has the same pattern as a 350 (5.7L) and 305 (5.0L)
 
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My problem is not between those so let me tell you ..transmission shifts good but since I bought the car which is 3 years ago I have the same problem .it has no check engine light .so when I slow down to stop ,2nd to 1st rmp gets slightly higher on shifting points causing a slightly rough stop every time I stop .I just replaced the tranny fluid and filter and its in the right level .I know I need to replace my opti causing rough idle when its hot but any idea about tranny guys ?
 

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I replaced my transmission and neutral switch, now i have no reverse, neutral or 4th gear lights. My first gear is fine, my second gear feels like third and my third feels like second with no upshift in 4th. Please help! Its a 98 4.3l with a 4l60e.
 

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Just bought a 2003 S10 LS 2.2 today. Great looking truck. Great price. The tranny shifts fine through 1,2,3 and seems to slip or rev higher to get OD to kick in. OD does eventually shift then with little throttle pressure added it down shifts back to 3rd. This goes on while driving. Could it be a speed sensor or TPS? Any help would greatly be appreciated.
 

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I am having a few problems with my 03 xtreme blazer. I started to feel what I thought was the trans slipping in 4th around 55 mph. I added Lucas additive after 2 straight days of this happening. This seemed to make it worse. Around 55 the rpms would fluctuate up and down until I left off the gas. I decided to drop pan and replace the filter and add new fluid. Going in reverse takes forever like I am riding a clutch and have to start in first gear vs D. Still feel some sort of slip going on in 3rd and 4th but weird thing is if I give it gas it shifts perfectly fine once going.
 

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Posted a while back and never really got a good answer. The tranny in my truck is still acting up. Now that it's gotten cold out, I've noticed when the tranny fluid hasn't earned up, there will be no TC lock up. Goes though all the gears, just no lock up(revs high but moves) until it warms up. Still having slow shifts throughout all gears. Seems to have a lot less power then when the tranny was doing right. Replaced the TPS and Idle air control valve. Any ideas?
Any fix for this. I just started having a similar problem. Replaced tps, iac. I've also got a Transgo hd2 kit installed. Goes into all gears fine, tc locks after warming up (couple of miles), seems like the brakes are applied or a lose of power.
 

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could be time for a rebuild..mine now has 220,000 miles and runs great,shifts still ok ..i still have a shudder going into second gear,but i never replaced the accumulater piston so i still feel thats why when heavy on the pedal"160 hp of liquid sunshine,haha"pure death:) it goes into second then first sencond again real fast.."wasnt the shift solenoids" i have a trans on the side for when it decides to go..needs rebuilt tho.
i pull a dual axle car hauler "steel channel type 1400 lbs" and chevy blazer 4x4 and other cars all the time..suprised its doing as well as it is..after pulling a car with it,,it feels like a turbo roflmao..race truck :)
 

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I have a question dealing with #16. I have a 2003 zr2 s10 with 128k on her. Two weeks ago I was driving from Dubuque Iowa to Platteville Wisconsin. When I was going to the hills in Wisconsin, my s10 would down shift hard and accelerate hard also that slowly loose power. Can hear the engine bog down and sleep will slow. I take here out of cruise control and downshift. Seems to help but I pulled over and checked things out. I seen one of the vacuum lines melted and I was about to put a barb fitting in. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I need to replace them. Oil level is good and look and smell too. Not sure of filter had been changed. No cooler on her. I am going to install a cooler. Hayden 677 one and change the filter. My wife and I are moving to Idaho and want to pull a tow dolly with out 2002 Saab 9-3 Viggen. Should we drive separate or will I be fine pulling it? Could something be going out in my trans? If so, manual is going in for what I would cost for a junk yard or if I rebuilt it. Any info would help.

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29. Car acts like it's in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine:Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing. R&R required. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.
99 blazer, these symptoms, can someone clarify what input housing may be cracked? is this a part I can actually order? cause I've googled this, and it's like a 400$ part as it's called here. 400$ gets me a new (used) transmission, surely it can't be that expensive a thing.
 

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6th Incarnation
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21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.
Dealing with #21 right now. I was cruising on the highway and suddenly lost all torque, transmission acted as though it were in neutral. I coasted to a stop, with the engine still running, and then tried to manually go through the forward gears and reverse to no effect The only thing I can do is park and un-park.

I got towed home and have now done some diagnosis, the fluid level does not change with the engine running, so I've either got a broken pump, or a non-engaging one (i.e. torque converter is too far forward or something).

Question: Since it died, and I coasted about a mile, then was towed home on the front wheels, AND have only started it up for a few minutes since then just to test, would the rest of the transmission internals probably be okay? I may just swap this for a rebuilt transmission anyway, but it had been working fine or at least seemed to be up until this time.

Question 2: Any chance there would be some kind of code stored for this? I can only read engine codes ATM but if there's another reason the pump could shut down I'd like to find out.
 

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So my over run clutch seems to be causing issues when it switches to slow down with the motor coasting between 4-3 and sounds like grinding gears in a manual is that a common issue for the 4l60e
 

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i think i see or heard this just 1X recentyly in 4L60E in 97 Jimmy, but also have added VALVOLINE max LIfe ATF DEX MERC synth. after a service and repair on that unit, and had not hada single problem in 10K mi. untill one time recent

where i got all the way home and tried to pull into my parking and my driveway and had the CEL witha code that
said TORQUE CONV, and Up - down Solenoids 1 and 2, Guess what sure Nough, next morn went to check the Fluid
i was down at least 2 pts ATF , added more Valvoline, then drove just fine, that was a week ago, been driving fine;

4x4 is great , snow and ice in Oregon in winter worked, PEERRRRFECT./. the reason the fluid was low was we put in a radiator 3.5 months ago and it just needed the 1 Quart Topped off Plus an additional two pints more, and there
arent that many bad leaks, maybe a minor one and it could be OIL at Rr main seal or it could be atf out of the TC at mateing of ENG TO TRANS. cant tell for sure, but, its maybe 1/2" high on the 4l60e dipstick right now and running strong , hope it doesnt hurt to be that 1-2 millimeters high in the Trans cause so far... so. good LOL
 

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I have a 93 Sonoma with the 4.3 CPI motor... I don't know if #14 would be my problem or not, but say i'm going 25 and i step on it..... It should downshift and take off. Instead it just accelerates slowly.

14. TCC always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage (easy fix in pan), or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

Thanks in advance for any input!
 
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