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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 02 CC with 250K miles on it going on its 4th tranny. Here is the problem with this one:
Cold, runs fine.

Warm, tranny has no motion in any gear. PARK is the only one that works.
Only fix I have found is to put it in PARK, shut it off, and restart the truck. Then it runs fine. for how long, don't know.
Got it home and let is sit for a few days then this morning started it up, waited for it to get warm then tried to drive it. Problem returned.
PCM was replaced about two years ago with a brand new one and this tranny was put in brand new and has 50K miles on it.
Fluid level fine and red, no signs of leaks under truck.

Any help??

TIA

Bill
 

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hard to fix anything without all the details.
Have a scanner hooked up and someone read that knows transmissions.
I find it hard to believe that its taken 4 transmissions to get to 250K
someone isnt building them to fix,just patching up to go a few miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The first three were 3/4 clutches and were rebuilt from the first tranny. This one was a brand new crate tranny.
It all started, this time, after the cooling lines were replaced a couple of months ago. Maybe they banged on the tranny to PCM connector and it is just loose causing the issue. Will check.

As to the codes, I have an OBDII scanner and will check to see if if threw any codes.

You would think it would happen all the time, not when it warmed up.

More news later

Bill
 

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Randy
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Why did the cooling lines get replaced?
Does your vehicle have a MAF sensor? Repeated transmission failure can be caused by a bad MAF sensor. oes not need to set a code for failure. It measures load so the computer can calculate pressure rise.

The electrical connection cannot cause a no move... It is for the electrical components only. You can disconnect the harness and drive it. The manual valve is the part that directs fluid flow to the correct parts to make reverse or 3rd. Fail safe or limp mode is third gear with a manual 2nd gear and raised fluid pressure. This allows you to limp it somewhere for repair. Power to the shift solenoids is supplied by the "TRANS" fuse. The computer control's the ground for shift solenoids. The shift solenoids redirect line pressure to the proper clutch's/band for the gears.

No move hot condition is than likely a input drum/pump issue. Cold the thicker fluid can make up large clearances that thinner fluid cannot. Could be a converter issue, but I dont think so.
I would check transmission pressure, to see if pressure is low when it gets hot. should be 75 psi at idle in P,N,D. reverse should go to 125 at idle and Manual 1/2 should be 150 plus. If you don't have a way to check pressure of the transmission from cold to hot. Personally I would pull the pan and check the internal magnet for metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To your response:

The reason for the cooling lines replace:
The first time the 3/4 clutch went bad, the only way the tranny guy would repair it was to put on an aux cooler. (Should have taken it somewhere else). Anyway, where he cut the metal lines to go to rubber to the new cooler was right over the center link and everytime I would make a turn, it rubbed the rubber on the hose. Eventually it started to leak.
After a series of fixing that, I decided to have the original lines put back and attached to the radiator just like from the factory. After that is when this issue started with no motion from the tranny..

It has a MAF sensor

The truck acts like it is in neutral when I put it in any gear. On an incline it will roll no matter what gear is selected, even reverse. Putting it in Park, shutting if off, restarting it, resolved it so I could get it home about 20 miles. Didn't act up once during the trip home. Let is sit for a few days, started it up, drove it till it got warm, it did it again. Put it in Park, shut it off, restarted it, then drove it home.

Suspected electrical due to only happened after the cooling lines replaced and the tranny connect close to the cooling lines. Do need to read and see if it threw any codes...

Can't believe that this new tranny with 50K is bad too? That would be number 4 and the truck has 256K miles on it and is just a DD no off road..

Did I get a lemon??

Bill
 

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Randy
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You definitely have and odd scenario. Was this almost immediately after fixing the lines? Cooler flow has a lot to do with transmission life. Low flow causes heat build-up over longer trips. Could also cause a converter that can't charge. The flow path for that is from the pan to the pump, to converter, to cooler, to lube oil passages and back to pan.
Remove the cooler lines and check for flow. Could be messy the top line at the trans is cooler return. Follow them to the radiator and remove the return line. make shift a hose to put in a bucket. You should get 1 quart in 20-30 seconds.
Right now if you don't have stuff you are limited to a few checks like this and pan removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes it is a weird one. It was by pure luck I was able to get it home. It showed up less than a month after I had the lines replaced and attached to the radiator. The radiator, by the way, is less than two years old. Because it is a combination of plastic and aluminum, it is prone to leaks at the seams so I get a new one every couple of years under warranty from Advance Auto Parts.
Would the volume of fluid be the same cold or warm? Are you thinking the radiator is clogged??
 

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Why did the cooling lines get replaced?
Does your vehicle have a MAF sensor? Repeated transmission failure can be caused by a bad MAF sensor. oes not need to set a code for failure. It measures load so the computer can calculate pressure rise.

The electrical connection cannot cause a no move... It is for the electrical components only. You can disconnect the harness and drive it. The manual valve is the part that directs fluid flow to the correct parts to make reverse or 3rd. Fail safe or limp mode is third gear with a manual 2nd gear and raised fluid pressure. This allows you to limp it somewhere for repair. Power to the shift solenoids is supplied by the "TRANS" fuse. The computer control's the ground for shift solenoids. The shift solenoids redirect line pressure to the proper clutch's/band for the gears.

No move hot condition is than likely a input drum/pump issue. Cold the thicker fluid can make up large clearances that thinner fluid cannot. Could be a converter issue, but I dont think so.
I would check transmission pressure, to see if pressure is low when it gets hot. should be 75 psi at idle in P,N,D. reverse should go to 125 at idle and Manual 1/2 should be 150 plus. If you don't have a way to check pressure of the transmission from cold to hot. Personally I would pull the pan and check the internal magnet for metal.
You dont need to pull pan to check for metal bits
pull the VSS sensor,it has a magnet and if it looks like a chia pet,you have trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went out this morning with a Wind Chill of +19. Checked fluid level. It was above the warm line. Put on a scanner and found no codes. Started the truck up. Went through all the gears including reverse without issue.
Watched the water temp increase while checking the gears. Got to a water temp of 186 and it happened. Put it in Park and checked fluid. Fluid now below the warm level.
Shut the truck off and restarted. Water temp still at 186, went through all the gears including reverse without failure.

When it gets warmer i will check the tranny to PCM connector.

Bill
 

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Re-read post #4. Randy states that electrical will not cause a no move scenario. He knows this stuff better than anyone else on here.
"You can disconnect the harness and drive it. "
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Then what's the point of the harness??
So you are telling me I am looking at Tranny #5?? or Torque Converter #2?
 

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the manual mode is only in case of a failure in the electrical system
trans is normally shifted electrically according to things like speed,rpm,load,temperature etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As I stated earlier the water temp got to 186 and that is when it started to happen. When I put the truck in Park, shut if off, then restarted it worked again as usual.

I am thinking that by this method, I am resetting something electrical. According to the above post,
"normally shifted electrically according to things like speed,rpm,load,temperature etc."
 

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Randy
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How long does it work as usual? 5 minutes or all day? You may be right. if you disconnect the PCM or case connector apply a little dielectric grease to the pigtail connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know that when it did it the first time, I was able to drive it home from the lake which is about 20 miles, which was about 30 minutes. Speed limits were less than 50mph plus stop signs. Got it home at let it sit in the driveway for about a month. The other day, I drove around the neighborhood and worked fine about 5 minutes. Probably due to not get hot enough. Then a couple of days ago, it was real cold outside with a Windchill of +19 and I started it up to warm everything up and drove up and down the driveway with out issues until the water temp got to 186 then it happened, that took about 20 minutes. Did the trick, pulled it up the drive and that is where it now sits.
I am afraid to drive it due to "what happens when or if the trick doesn't work anymore?"

So the longest I have driven it after the "trick" was about 30 minutes.
What about overfilling with tranny fluid? Could this be a cause?


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I know that when it did it the first time, I was able to drive it home from the lake which is about 20 miles, which was about 30 minutes. Speed limits were less than 50mph plus stop signs. Got it home at let it sit in the driveway for about a month. The other day, I drove around the neighborhood and worked fine about 5 minutes. Probably due to not gettting hot enough. Then a couple of days ago, it was real cold outside with a Windchill of +19 and I started it up to warm everything up and drove up and down the driveway with out issues until the water temp got to 186 then it happened, that took about 20 minutes. Did the trick, pulled it up the drive and that is where it now sits.
I am afraid to drive it due to "what happens when or if the trick doesn't work anymore?"

So the longest I have driven it after the "trick" was about 30 minutes.
What about overfilling with tranny fluid? Could this be a cause?


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:
Took my truck to my trusty mechanic. Informed me today that the 2/3 clutch pack is bad. $2300 to put in a j/y tranny. Can't get one locally so it will have to be shipped in.
To totally rebuild mine would have cost over $3200. Since I have over 250K on the truck I think it would be better to go this route instead of a total rebuild of mine.
They, too, don't understand why I am going through so many tranny's. 4 since 2010 when this all started.
Will update later when I get it back from the shop.

Bill
 

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where are you located? those prices are insane.
You can buy a GM reman for about half that and get a 3 yr 100K warranty
 

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Randy
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Find a craigslist guy. There are very honest and trustworthy ones on there. Maybe hard to find, trust me they are there. I get $900 for a stocker rebuild plus hard parts. I only deal local though!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This one is from LKQ. They tell me that the 4wd version is harder to come by than the 2wd. There are lots of that version here but none of the 4wd. Don't know where it is coming from or when my truck will be done.

Bill
 
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