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Discussion Starter #1
So i drove my s-10 with the emergency brake on, couldn't get it released and thought it was non functional and think i caused the engine to throw a rod.. so i am thinking my best route of action is to swap in another 4.3? So checking local recycling yards and craigslist ads and facebook marketplace.... i am understanding and have been told that any 4.3 either from S-10 or full size pickup should work and i ahve a friend who is willing to help .. is there anything we should know before we tackle this?
 

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Gun Totin Redneck
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Year of truck makes a big difference. There were some variations that usually span a couple three years. Big issue between fullsized and s10 on the TBI motors is the oil pump and pan.
 

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What he said. There's many different 4.3's in existence.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_90°_V6_engine lists 20 variations not necessarily interchangeable.

Tell us the year of your truck and the first 10 digits of the vin. We can help you figure out what will and won't work for you.
Oh, get your brakes fixed or the trans will be next if the differential is still in one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tell us the year of your truck and the first 10 digits of the vin. We can help you figure out what will and won't work for you.
My truck is a 2000 GMC Jimmy. I will get you the Vin digits when it gets light out.. later today.

Locally, there is a 2003 4.3 Silverado engine available . Would that fit? Would it possibly have the same lifter tick + issue the previous engine had?
 

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Been there Done it
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The 03 Silverado should work. You'll likely have to swap oil pans. Maybe a couple sensors.
Hard to say if and engine I've never seen would have a lifter tick. That tends to be a high miles issue. Not always.
If that's all that's wrong with yours, put in a new set of lifters. Lot less work than engine R&R.
 

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The most important part of the VIN is the 8th position. Yours will likely be a "W" and the 2003 Silverado is also likely to be a "W".

Also check the codes on the SPIDS in the glove box. Yours is likely the "L35" engine and the 2003 Silverado is likely "LU3."

Swapping an LU3 into your 2000 should be fine. The only significant issue I can think of is that you'll probably want to keep your intake manifold for the EGR valve and pipe. You'll definitely have to keep your own exhaust manifolds because the ones on the Silverado won't fit.

GM also changed from SAE (3/8-16) to Metric (M10x1.5) bolts for the bell housing, but I think your 2000 is after the change. The 2003 will definitely be metric for the bell housing bolts. If yours was SAE, you just need new bolts.

Oh, and you also will likely have to carefully drill and tap the knock sensor hole. The LU3 uses a 2 wire knock sensor held on by a small bolt. Your 2000 (L35) engine has a single wire sensor that screws in to pipe threads.

What specifically is wrong with yours. In your opening post you state:
So i drove my s-10 with the emergency brake on, couldn't get it released and thought it was non functional and think i caused the engine to throw a rod.
I've never seen a 4.3L V6 "throw a rod" in street or highway use. I'm very skeptical that driving with the parking brake set would cause that kind of failure.

I'm also skeptical that you've experienced that kind of failure. That's the type of failure that happens in Nascar cup cars when there's a huge plume of smoke, a big trail of oil and the car coasts to a stop. Are you saying that a connecting rod broke, knocked a hole in the side of the block (or oil pan), and most/all of the oil went out the hole and you coasted to a stop and had it towed home?

If that's not what happened, please explain exactly what symptoms you have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The most important part of the VIN is the 8th position. Yours will likely be a "W" and the 2003 Silverado is also likely to be a "W".
I'm also skeptical that you've experienced that kind of failure. That's the type of failure that happens in Nascar cup cars when there's a huge plume of smoke, a big trail of oil and the car coasts to a stop. Are you saying that a connecting rod broke, knocked a hole in the side of the block (or oil pan), and most/all of the oil went out the hole and you coasted to a stop and had it towed home?

If that's not what happened, please explain exactly what symptoms you have now.
I posted on here in another thtread about my lifter tick issue.. which was extremely liveable.. just a ticking that you didn't hear if you kept the windows closed.. but then Sat night i wanted to get to the bar and took off with the e-brake issue, red light on, and it wasnt too bad going there though i noticed it seemed to shift at higher rpms.. but on the way back, only a couple miles, it was noticably louder an actual knock.. and the oil pressure was low, so low it made the "Check guages" light come on idling at a stop light.. so much so that i took off from the light still on red so it wouldnt die.. It depresses me that i took a relaitvely inexpensive issue and cost myself additional hundreds of dollars if i want to get this thing fixed..

You are right my 8th position on my vin is a "W". The complete first 10 digits is:

1GKDT13W9Y

Would that Silverado 4.3 engine be a more sturdy engine?

Is there somewhere on the web that i could give a vin number and they could tell me how many miles?
 

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Carfax or similar "vehicle history reports" will show you when it was last registered and the mileage reported then. Many of these trucks are old enough that if they've been sold within the past couple years, they may show "Exempt" for the mileage now, though.
 
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