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Wiggle those cables...馃槀 I replaced a ton of sensors and it didn't do anything except make my wallet thinner.
 

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i know its not what you want to hear, but I too think you may have an intermittent issue with your fuel pump... albeit from the electrical side of things. i am sort of curious to know how you totally ruled out your fuel pump and fuel pump's power/ground?
fuel pressure tests alone may not be sufficient since it is an electric pump which may have an intermittent electrical issue. did you check the pump's electrical? if so, how did you do it?

because on many s10's you practically need to get to the top of the pump to test it electrically... ie. my 2000 doesnt have the fuel pump electrical test port under the hood... but i have a fuel pump hole/hatch in the bed now...
dontcha just LOVE how Auto engineers "think" when doin designs? they COULD have easily designed an "access port" in these truck beds, but nooooooooooo.. (rolls eyes)
 

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Old Fart
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
You just hook up your Tech2 or Snap On Solus. Bring up the rpms until it starts slowing down and your done. I think it can be done on HP Tuners MPVI2 also. Most bi-directional scanners should be able to do it.
Here's HPT's procedure. Others are done the same.
Thanks but I don't have access to any of those. I'm sure that my Innova 3160 scanner will not do that so I will have to find someone that does, maybe I can get in touch with Badwrench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
you cant rule out pump power/ground on 'symptoms' alone
You can when there is no power to the coil and there is correct fuel pressure.

This is definitely an ignition problem. I have been wrenching since I was 13 years old, was an electronics tech in the Coast Guard, and 73 years old so I have a little experience. I was just asking how to test the components that could cause the ignition system not to get power so that I'm not wasting time and money guessing which part to replace. I checked the fuel pump first since I have had issues with it before so unless you know how to test components like crank sensors, cam sensors, and ignition modules I don't want anyone else telling me to check my fuel pump and wiring to it.

From what I have read if the ignition system doesn't have power neither do the injectors so even though I have fuel pressure none will flow through the injectors when there is no spark.

Rant over, thank you.
 

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it could and it couldnt...
i was coasting along ~50mph, whipped it around the corner and my tach was at zero too. it fired back up and drove around a few times too. fuel system ultimately got too marginal... new china pump has fixed it thus far...
 

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Why would a fuel pump problem shut the ignition off? I have had the fuel pump go out on this truck twice and a wiring problem with the fuel pump once so I am quite familiar with those symptoms. This is definitely a no spark ignition problem so what I am looking for is how to test the components that control the ignition system like the crank sensor, cam sensor, and ignition module.

For the life of me, I don't understand why so many people think it is the fuel pump causing my no spark problem. :rolleyes:
I don't necessarily think it's the fuel pump, but it's part of the diagnostic process. It takes 5 seconds to check fuel pressure and eliminate that as a possibility. If you follow the diagnostic process you will find the issue no matter what it is. Sometimes when you jump to conclusions you chase a ghost.
 

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I've never seen a pump regain life after failure. @goes2fast, when it dies, does everything quit? Mine was a total shutdown. I agree with you...fuel pump isn't the problem.
 
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B4U Task Force Admin
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it could and it couldnt...
i was coasting along ~50mph, whipped it around the corner and my tach was at zero too. it fired back up and drove around a few times too. fuel system ultimately got too marginal... new china pump has fixed it thus far...
I keep seeing references to Chinese parts. Is everyone so quick to point out American made parts? And I don't buy for a minute that all parts are made in China.
 

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I don't necessarily think it's the fuel pump, but it's part of the diagnostic process. It takes 5 seconds to check fuel pressure and eliminate that as a possibility. If you follow the diagnostic process you will find the issue no matter what it is. Sometimes when you jump to conclusions you chase a ghost.
He confirmed pressure.
 

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If you confirmed fuel pressure and you don't have spark at the plugs, it would be helpful then to see if you have injector pulse. You can test the ignition system on its own. But still would be nice to know since depending on where the problem is you could still have injector pulse. For example, with a bad crank sensor you will lose pulse but with a bad ignition coil you won't.
You can when there is no power to the coil and there is correct fuel pressure.
When you say there's no power to the coil, are you saying there is no power on the pink wire at the coil with key on?
 

Old Fart
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If you confirmed fuel pressure and you don't have spark at the plugs, it would be helpful then to see if you have injector pulse. You can test the ignition system on its own. But still would be nice to know since depending on where the problem is you could still have injector pulse. For example, with a bad crank sensor you will lose pulse but with a bad ignition coil you won't.

When you say there's no power to the coil, are you saying there is no power on the pink wire at the coil with key on?
Yes. since no one here either know how to test the possible components that can cause a no spark condition so I can find the problem without guessing, I'm done. If there were any codes it would help but no help there either.
 

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I'm trying to walk you through testing but you're not answering my questions. You don't need codes to test the ignition system. If you don't have power on the pink wire it's not your crank sensor. I guess if you're done... Good luck.
 

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Slayer beat me to it, but my first thought reading the symptoms was the crank sensor. I鈥檓 not familiar with the setup on this one, but the tach usually gets its reading from the CkPS. If you crank the engine the next time it fails, and you see no tach reading, that鈥檚 the pure man鈥檚 test for bad CkPS. Bad sensor, no ignition. Test for spark at a single plug.

It鈥檚 a cheap sensor. Fire the parts cannon at it. Even if it鈥檚 not bad now, it will be, and the only way to limp home with a fully bad one is on a flatbed. My 鈥08 BMW lost its a year ago at 172k miles, luckily it worked enough to give me reduced power to make it home. And when I say reduced power, I mean it couldn鈥檛 walk up four ramps to replace it. My friend lost his on his K2500 in Georgia on a NY- FL Keys boat haul. Not fun.


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I keep seeing references to Chinese parts. Is everyone so quick to point out American made parts? And I don't buy for a minute that all parts are made in China.
i read a thread or two from his fuel pump debacles. he re-wired the plug, so its definitely a china pump... you aint gotta re wire for the good ones (which are probably also china pumps too...)
that fuel system aint out of the question, whether it be pressures or electrical. he says he tested it but he clearly didnt test power/ground. he had crimps fail and all kinds of trouble.

he didnt even wiggle his battery cables like you suggested... the side mount batteries are notorious for bad connections due to corrosion... ive seen them full of corrosion and you couldnt even tell til you disconnected the battery...

for what its worth, i put a china pump in mine. $30 vs $300 pshh. i cut a hole in the bed for easy replacement when it dies.
i halfway recommend everyone to buy a china pump now and keep it on hand if you rely on the truck... because it will take a few days to show up when yours dies and you might not want to wait... the identical china models at the parts stores are $200+...
its much quieter than the oem pump, which was always loud since day one...
 

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I've met Jim, and have known him for quite awhile. He is far from a novice when it come to cars. His former VW and his S4 would most likely smoke anything on this site. You may want to give him a little credit for what he does know.

As for rewiring his pump harness, AC/Delco and Delphi include new harnesses with their pumps because of a change. Made in China...don't know don't care. The fact is the pump was changed for whatever reason. It was brought up years ago, but I don't recall the reason.

I've had enough about hearing China this...or China that. Give a brand name. The next time I see the "C" word in a post, it's getting deleted.

Rant over.
 
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