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Inferno Fab
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4,441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok here's the jist of this project. I know very little about motors and it really bother's me so I am taking on a side project that just might end up in my blazer if all goes right. I was parusing craigslist for the past 2 months looking for a cheap 350 block to start this project and I found an unbored 2 bolt main from a 1971 wagon that has the 010/020 stamp on it, I know that means it has the higher amount of nickel in the metal. So I figured this would be a decent start to my build. I picked it up for $75 and immediately took it to the machine shop. They called me and said they would probably have it inspected, hot tanked, magnafluxed and prebored(due to rust on the cylinder walls) by next week. This will then tell me whether or not the block will be useable. And this is as far as I have gotten, lol. So from here any help or knowledge would be greatly appreciated.


Ok so tell me if you see any issues with these parts working together? I know the pistons aren't forged but I'm also only shooting for around 400-450hp.
A couple of things I couldn't figure out were
1. The piston rods say pin end is .927 but the pistons don't list a pin size, will these work?
2. The crank says "large journal rods" and the rods say "large journal crank pin (2.10).
3. The other issue is I can't find a set of clevite 77 bearings for a 383 so I am guessing that since these are just altered 350 rods that they would use bearings for a 350? Am I correct when I think that the journals on the crank are originaly 400 crank journals that are ground down to stock 350 journals but the crank keeps the 400 stroke which makes the engine a true stroker motor? So all in all I need to buy bearings for a set of 350 rods?

Speed Pro Pistons -
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php? ... 306&page=1

Scat Connecting Rods -
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php? ... 040&page=1

Skat Crankshaft -
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php? ... t=0&page=1

Sealed Power Rings -
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php? ... 193&page=1
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
Joined
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5,363 Posts
the high nickel thing is a myth, nothing more, your block is nothing special

most aftermarket internal parts are pretty much a standard size in terms of pin and journal size unless otherwise noted, so things will fit together for you without an issue

the original way to stroke a 350 was to use a 400 crank and you would have to mess with the journal sizes, but the aftermarket stroker cranks have the journal size of the 350's so buy bearings for a 350
 

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Inferno Fab
Joined
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4,441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know that the nickel content really didn't make much of a difference, I've read that on here quite a bit. So everything else seems to look ok so far? No problems with the name brands of any of that stuff or the fact that the pistons aren't forged? I am not running any nitrous or anything like that, I just want it to hold up under normal driving, I don't race and I don't do burn outs.

Oh and CatDaddy, I took a look at that and it does look like a good kit to me and a damn good price on those heads but I would be skeptical about them simply bc I think that is their in house product and I've never heard of them. Not that that is saying much, lol. when I get to that point I will ask around and see if anyone has heard of them before.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
Joined
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5,363 Posts
youll be fine with with pistons that arent forged, they are plenty durable for street use

as for the heads, if you read through the listing youll see that they are ProComp heads, which are decent, i used to build engines with them at my old shop and for the money i think theyre great, and they put some decent hardware on them (not procomp, this company), its a screaming deal if you ask me, i should pick up a set actually
 

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Inferno Fab
Joined
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4,441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome, like I said, just because I have never heard of them doesn't mean anything. I know very little about motors. But def a big thanks for the info, I will look into those when I get to that point.
 

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Been around the block
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2,062 Posts
Can't say first hand, but a co-worker of mined tipped me off on the Skip White stuff. He did the 383 kit, Pro-Comp heads, Pro-Comp polished intake & the fabbed valve covers. This is in his 70 Nova....over 400 hp on pump fuel. Never seen prices like that on some quality pieces.
 

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Registered
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1 Posts
Have you picked a camshaft yet? What intake are you planning on using? 383's make gobs of torque and are great for street driven vehicles, just need to match everything so it works together.
 

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Registered
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31 Posts
Check out cnc motorsports for a rotating assembly if you haven't alredy ordered your parts. If you buy it in pieces make sure you be it balenced. Cnc will do that for you typically included in the price.

If you have the option of internal or neutral vs external balence I would go internal. That way you can use a 350 harmonic balencer and flywheel. External you have to find one for a 400.
 

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Inferno Fab
Joined
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4,441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys.. I have not picked out a cam yet or purchased any parts, right now I am just waiting on the machine shop to tell me if this block is going to be useable. Once that happens, I will have them do the bore and hone. Then I will start ordering the parts. As of right now this is what I am thinking, let me know if you see any issues with any of this stuff:

Speed Pro Pistons - $164.50
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=324&cat=18342306&page=1

Scat Connecting Rods - $288.25
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1137&cat=7078040&page=1

Skat Crankshaft - $223.07
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sealed Power Rings - $28.99
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1853&cat=17915193&page=1

Damper - $79.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Oil Pump kit (High volume) - $46.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

ARP HV Pump stud kit - $6.99
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=152&cat=7266755&page=1

Oil Pan - $54.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Noisy Timing gear drive - $50.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Timing Chain cover - $36.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
Joined
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5,363 Posts
you dont want a high volume pump, those have no place on a freshly built engine, it will suck a stock pan dry

a stock flow oil pump is all you need

also, if you use a cast/billet aluminum timing cover with a gear drive timing set, you may need to have the cover machined to clear the gears, the engines we used to build we ended up just switching to a stamped cover because they were not thick enough to machine, we blew through the front of it by the time it cleared the gears
 

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Registered
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828 Posts
screw timing gears! they are not worth the hassle at all. spend that money on a good timing chain.
secondly if you buy a scat crank they do not come balanced from the factory so you WILL have to get the whole assembly balanced afterwards. where as a eagle piece will come with a relatively close 1900 or so bobweight.

honestly i would just get on summit and buy it all in a balanced kit or see what your machine shop can get up for you.because i know we usually beat summit and jegs prices on a full balanced assembly by about 50$ and the customers usually like to deal with the local shop. IMO
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
Joined
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5,363 Posts
screw timing gears! they are not worth the hassle at all. spend that money on a good timing chain.
secondly if you buy a scat crank they do not come balanced from the factory so you WILL have to get the whole assembly balanced afterwards. where as a eagle piece will come with a relatively close 1900 or so bobweight.

honestly i would just get on summit and buy it all in a balanced kit or see what your machine shop can get up for you.because i know we usually beat summit and jegs prices on a full balanced assembly by about 50$ and the customers usually like to deal with the local shop. IMO
x2 on everything, timing gears are a waste, they rob power and in my opinion sound terrible, invest in a quality double roller chain if you arent after that "gear whine"

and most people dont know that you can usually get a deal by getting your parts through a machine shop, most are willing to pass a portion of the discount they get to their customer
 

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Registered
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828 Posts
i know we would have to mark all up all our prices by about 25-30% to meet there prices.
and dont buy a bare scat crank. please. there a bitch to balance!
 

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Looking for 8's
Joined
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560 Posts
Why are you going ext bal on this build? all the parts are available to make it internal. Not gonna tell you how to build and open up a can of worms on here, But a 5.85 or 6 in rod would give a better angle on the rod and piston with a 3.75 stroke.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
Joined
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5,363 Posts
i agree, a long rod build does have a ton of benefits but thats getting into special pistons, and 383 pistons already have a high wrist pin, i think all hes looking for is a solid engine for his first build, and theres nothing wrong with using a 5.7 rod for that
 

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Looking for 8's
Joined
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560 Posts
The pistons are readily available in hyp or forged. a pin height of 1.12 (decked @ 9) to 1.150 (stock deck height 9.025) for a 6 in rd and would cost the same.
5.85 needs a 1.27 @ 9 or 1.3 @9.025.
I like the rod he chose just would want it longer and float the pins.

Like I said it would be my recomendation to the person if I was the builder. Just less stress on parts and side wall. My $.02

also with the alum heads I would go FT and not dished with the piston. He can run more cr from the heat disapation. and have better flame travel.
 

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Inferno Fab
Joined
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4,441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Ok let's take a look at these now.. I switched the rods to 6" rods and the pistons to Keith Black forged, they are still dished but I can't tell if they are floating pins or pressed.. I also removed the timing chain bc I am planning on getting a cam, chain, and lifter kit that will ensure me that they go together.

Keith Black Pistons - $336.00
http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=6249

Pro Comp Forged Rods - $237.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-CHEVY-383-STROKER-6-0-H-BEAM-BUSHED-RODS-4114-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5638afbf43QQitemZ370318229315QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Skat Crankshaft - $223.07
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-SCAT-383-STROKER-CRANKSHAFT-2PC-RMS-910375-2PC-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cef4f1e5bQQitemZ330432454235QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sealed Power Rings - $28.99
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1853&cat=17915193&page=1

Damper - $79.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-CHEVY-383-400-BALANCER-DAMPER-8-EXT-24266-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564039ccfcQQitemZ370444717308QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Oil Pump kit (standard volume) - $49.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-SMALL-BLOCK-CHEVY-OIL-PUMP-KIT-M-55-STD-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4ced97b96dQQitemZ330403658093QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

ARP Pump stud kit - $6.99
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=151&cat=7266755&page=1

Oil Pan - $54.95
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-CHEVY-ALUMINUM-OIL-PAN-2pc-RMS-55-79-8442-OP-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf2233f59QQitemZ330479910745QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Timing Chain cover - $36.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-CHEVY-TIMING-CHAIN-COVER-CHROME-ALIMINUM-6040-C-K-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5193d7aba7QQitemZ350372735911QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
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